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    1. · Banned
      21 Posts
      Tightness adds to accuracy, no matter how you look at it. If you can have tight and reliable you have the best, and that is what Baer does. Now there is probably a threshold where a hand gun is 'tight enough' but i have no idea how to measure it, and my Baer outperforms every thing else it has ever shot against, and is 100% reliable.

      I guess if Baers are built improperly they need to lower their prices - oh wait, they cost twice what other do and still have a 6 month back log, weird.

      BTW, brownells sells several tools for (improperly) making your reliable pistol accurate (ie tighter). It is covered in the AGI gunsmithing videos on building reliable competition and carry pistols.


      Baer builds them overtight when they are new because if you build them 'proper' when new, they will loosen beyond accurate when they break in.
      The process involves measuring, swaging and then lapping to fit and having the right tools will give you a good result on what you build yourself.

      Get the AGI videos - well worth the money.

    1. · Registered
      4 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      Well I'm getting into Bullseye and have so far been playing with my Ruger 22/45. Excellent pistol and accuracy that just blows my mind from a .22. Since I've sold my Loaded Springfield years ago I looked around and it seemed pretty good idea to get a Springfield 1911 Mil-Spec and do a few mods to tune it up and get it shooting sub 3" groups.

      It's also a black parkerized model. I'm thinking of getting a Kart EZ fit barrel along with a EGW performance trigger group. I really want a sub 2 lbs trigger pull. I have a few questions here for the experienced folks.

      1. Can you shoot Wadcutters from the Kart Barrels? What needs to be in place for wadcutters? Why can't you shoot hard ball from wadcutter guns?

      2. Will it be ok to kept the stock trigger with the EGW performance trigger group? Are you able to use the EGW sear out of the box? I can get a fixture/jig but if I don't have to I would rather not. I want to kept the look of the original gun as much as possible. I'm already changing the hammer with this but that is for function. I was thinking of adding an overtravel set screw to the original trigger.

      3. I'm Looking to finish this off with fitting the slide to the Frame. It has a little horizontal plat and a minute amount of vertical play. Was looking at using slide blocks and a vise to eliminate the horizontal play and get a swagging punch to take out the vertical play.
      - When finished I plan on stoning down all raised rail surfaces on the sides. I'm not to sure what to do for the swagging fitting. I want the main riding surface to be flat with the secondary surface to have the majority of the swagging. So would the lower part of the rail stay flat and the top have the swagging or vise versa? Is this even a good idea or should I get a slide fitting bar in the thickness that I need and close the slide. ie. Auto Slide Fitting Bar .

      For tools I'm going to get the Kart barrel fitting kit, #2 pillar file, India stone, Arkansas stone, auto rail swagging punch, frame holder for vise, slide tighting blocks, trigger pull gauge. Don't know what shapes stones I will need. I'm debating on getting a full set of both but that is costly. Anything else I might be missing that I would need for this job?

      When I'm all done I plan on reParkerizing all the parts including the new hammer. Was looking at this parkerizing kit to do the job. In the future I'm looking at putting a Doctor red dot on it but the 3 dot stock sights will work for now as long as they are accurate at 25 yards.

      I'm already planning on a future Caspian build but I'll be piecing it together over time as expendable cash permits. If possible could I get the Springfield sear/disco to below a 3# trigger pull with no creep? If so I can spend the money for the Series II fixture and be able to work the stock sear and hammer to work and still be out the same amount of cash. Plus it would still be all original minus the barrel and bushing.

      Thank you for reading this and any replys. I can get carried away with stuff and I'm tring to be sensible with this gun. I'll go crazy with my first ground up build.
    1. · Registered
      1,512 Posts
      Slide rail channels can be 'hammered' down to fit the frame tightly - Brownells sells a set of bars for this purpose - they hold the shape of the rail while peening so it doesn't collapse and is the same dimension along the length of the slide:


      I don't know how well they work, but they do have both a PDF of instructions and a short video showing how to use them.

    1. · Registered
      760 Posts
      You can buy a 10mm slide & barrel.
      Replace the top end basically.

      Be sure the pistol frame can handle the 10mm loads, can you use an aluminum frame for 10mm? What's the gun you want to use?

      Are you cut for a ramped barrel?
      If not cut the 10mm bump feed ramp right down the center of the 45 one. If yes even easier.

      The only trouble is slide to frame fit, there are shim kits from Bronnels that might get you a glassy swap top,


      Remove Slide "Play" Accurately & Professionally

      American Pistolsmiths Guild Seal of Approval

      Surface ground and hardened tool steel bars in ten thicknesses - Recommended by agency armorers and top pistolsmiths as the most accurate way to remove vertical slide “play” from the 1911 Auto, its variations and copies. May be slower than the quick-and-dirty methods, but gives an infinitely more accurate and professional job. Basic procedure as follows: Measure gun’s slide rail thickness; place closest-sized Slide Fitting Bar in frame “way”; tap frame rail with light hammer to close the “ways” space down to match the slide rail thickness. Complete instructions

      There are 22lr kits as low as 150 for a sig sauer, and there was 9mm conversion kits produced in the 80's, I saw a used one on gunbroker. Slide to frame fit isn't a huge deal for 9mm or so I'm told, virtually non important on 22, you want a strait blowback loose, but for 10mm I have no clue, someone will pipe up, I'm not an expert by any stretch.

      By the way, Kimber uses the same breech face for 9mm, 39 super, .40 s&w, and 10mm, so once you have the 10mm slide, you can use all those barrels with it.
    1. · Registered
      186 Posts
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