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    1. · Registered
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      The fit or wiggle of the 1911 trigger is more to do with the fit of the fit of the bow to the cut.


      http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=788/Product/1911_AUTO_TRIGGER_STIRRUP_DIE

      To fit a Gold Cup trigger, the frame must be milled or broached to allow the wide trigger pad to fit.
      You can use the forming die and bump out the stirrup by striking along the edges in 4 locations on each side to spread the metal just a litle. Then you stone it just a little to let it move easily and without drag, with just 4 points of contact.
      A 1/4" steel punch will displace the metal. You can use any steel as an anvil, but will probably need the die to restore the correct shape and uniformity.
       
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      Ciener Conversion Experience

      I just tried mine on my RIA (FS-GI). similar issue, except mine acts as if it had a mag brake installed (ala' CZ75B). I DyKemed mine (the frame) and it appears to be the Trigger Bow, both the sides and the rear of the bow (disconnect engagement area, not behind the Trigger shoe). I have a Trigger Bow shaping fixture (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=788/Product/1911_AUTO_TRIGGER_STIRRUP_DIE). After the trigger bow was back in shape I attempted to reinstall the Trigger. AHHHA!! it wouldn't go!! The frame's Trigger Bow cuts need to be opened up. My FS-GI Trigger Bow cuts look ROUGH. I then took a Trigger Track Stone (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=798/Product/1911_AUTO_TRIGGER_TRACK_STONE) and smoothed it out. It took a while but It's all good now. I use the Ciener on my SA TRP, Kimber Raptor, Colt Gold Cup, and an AMT Hardballer zero problems.
       
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      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      I got one from Brownells (Part number: 080-000-389WB).

      Just for a reference, I used the trigger from a Springfield RO -which works amazingly well, to my surprise, the trigger did not even begin to fit on the die.

      After I worked it in (got the bow to fit around the die), it was not possible to move it down without some serious pushing.

      I took it off and checked in the gun - it fits great and magazines don't rub against it.

      The Question: Is there something wrong with the die? If not, shouldn't all triggers fit on it?

      What are the exceptions when it comes to trigger dimensions?

      Thanks for your input.
       
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      186 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      On this SAM 1911-9mm I have the trigger has always been a bit stiff. I found that when I would try and take trigger out I had to pull it out of the frame. So I did some bending but then the magazines would not drop out and had to be pulled. Make long story short with some patience I was able to get both not to stick and trigger is smooth now and magazines drop as soon as release is pushed. Would one of these be worth getting to help with any trigger replacements or problems with other 1911's?

      http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ls/1911-auto-trigger-stirrup-die-prod788.aspx
       
    2. · Registered
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      244 Posts
      On this SAM 1911-9mm I have the trigger has always been a bit stiff. I found that when I would try and take trigger out I had to pull it out of the frame. So I did some bending but then the magazines would not drop out and had to be pulled. Make long story short with some patience I was able to get both not to stick and trigger is smooth now and magazines drop as soon as release is pushed. Would one of these be worth getting to help with any trigger replacements or problems with other 1911's?

      http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ls/1911-auto-trigger-stirrup-die-prod788.aspx
      You screwed up the trigger bar in the first place because you fiddled with something you didn't know anything about. I would suggest you buy all the gunsmithing tools you need to correct your next mistake:bawling:
       
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