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    1. · Registered
      230 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
    1. · Registered
      464 Posts
      I have used many solvents, but nothing comes close to what JB Bore Cleaner can do. It will remove the most stubborn fouling including lead. Try it out if you haven't already.


      You can use it with a bronze bore brush. I usually wrap a patch around a bore brush and go to town. For really stubborn lead, try using JB Bore Cleaner with the Lewis Lead Remover tool.

      http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=21587&title=LEWIS LEAD REMOVER

      Finally, I finish off with JB Bore Bright to make the bore shiny like new.

    1. · Registered
      17 Posts
    2. · Banned
      1,662 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #5 ·
      Bore snakes work great for a quick "at the range" swipe, but not for a good take down cleaning. Get a quality cleaning rod or pistol cleaning kit.

      Im pretty sure its Shooters Choice that makes "Lead Out"
      this works better than Sweets for lead

      Brownells sells a tool call Lewis Lead Remover. Very cool, they even have a demo video.
      http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=21587&title=LEWIS LEAD REMOVER
      Found Shooters Choice Lead Remover. Buying it now.

      The reason I got the bore snake is cause I read that Sweets will actually dissolve my cleaning rods. I used the Sweets not too long ago to try it out and it left my barrel so clean it actually looks white when held up to the light. I put a heavy amt in, left it for 90 seconds, removed it with a bunch of dry patches then ran the bore snake through twice. Did that on my Baer and my 44 and both look great!
    1. · Registered
      5,189 Posts
      Lead bullets lead up most cylinders and bores to one extent or another.
      This is totally normal.
      Some ammunition and some guns will lead worse, some less.

      The only problem is that you do need to thoroughly clean the lead out, especially before shooting .357 Magnum ammunition or shooting jacketed bullets.
      The .357 is a longer case, so the build up from the .38 ammo may give trouble if you attempt to chamber .357 cases with a dirty chamber.
      DO NOT try to "shoot the lead out" by shooting jacketed bullets after shooting lead.
      You can bulge or ring the barrel.

      To clean the lead out of the bore, use what all the old time revolver shooters used, a Lewis Lead Remover.
      To clean out the chambers, buy a couple of bronze chamber brushes.

      (Check the video on the site for how to use).

    1. · Banned
      12,384 Posts
      Thorough cleaning.

      Yes, I know you're tired of hearing that now. You wanted a magic answer.

      No magic. Just cleaning.

      Fortunately the Ciener completely disassembles very easily. Do it.

      You might even consider a lead remover system. You need to find it in 22 caliber.
      Like http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS-LEAD-REMOVER but Brownell's doesn't have it in 22.
      There are other kits out there, search for them.

      The old fashioned method is to plug the muzzle with a rubber plug
      and fill the barrel with white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide 50/50.
      Soak for less than an hour and it's harmless to the barrel.
      Then the lead wipes out easily.

      Some 22 rimfire (like my S&W 41) get a lot of buildup that needs to be gently scraped with a dental pick.
      But once you do that, it runs perfectly. Examine with magnifying glass to find built up areas.
    1. · Registered
      1,633 Posts
      Probably gonna open up a can of worms, but what is the best solvent to remove lead?
      Seriously? Mercury. Cork the barrel, leave it in overnight, and pour it out in a strainer the next day. You'll have pieces of lead in the strainer.

      That said, you must have the proper HAZMAT tools to do this. It's not for the average person any longer. Easily absorbed heavy metal, dude!

      Speaking of which, the black stuff that will come to the top when you throw sawdust or wax or whatever into your lead, it's easily absorbed. Have good ventilation. This season I believe I'll start using a respirator, too. Dispose of that stuff safely.

      Back to removing lead. Even with poorly sized bullets, as long as you have a decent lube, you should be fine with a copper brush. I just pull a Bore Snake through from the chamber end, then from the muzzle end, and most of the lead comes out, if I have any.

      For bad leading, try this:

      Lewis Lead Remover at Brownell's

      Never used it. Some swear by it. I see no reason it wouldn't work.


    1. · Registered
      3,969 Posts
      CONGRATS Brother! My 686-6 is that size and it's great. Additional comments to those above:

      The original trigger was horrid. Rough, scratchy and multiple stages. After having all of the internals smoothed/stoned/polished I installed a set of reduced power Wolff springs. Between the action job and springs I got the DA pull down from above 12 (max on the Lyman) to an even 7#. It's my favorite revolver trigger now. It will tap a light strike now and again but it's not a SD gun.

      Note: If you ever decide to run CT grips on the 686 size frame use extreme caution if it has anything other than the stock main spring. The CT grip has a rubber bushing that is located so close to the mainspring that the Wolff hits it during compression and drastically changes its geometry leading to a weird and heavy pull.

      A few tips:

      I use a .40 brush on the 686 cylinders

      Use a lead remover cloth on the cylinder face. It makes quick work of getting rid of the black. The material STINKS so don't store it in your kits, bags, etc. but it sure works. Keep it away from your other guns too, it's potent.

      I also have a Lewis Lead Remover for occasional use (watch the vid on the left).
    1. · Registered
      5,189 Posts
      If whatever you're seeing is actually leading there are better and faster ways to get it out.
      As example, use the old revolver shooters favorite tool, the Lewis lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.
      Note the video on the page that shows how to use it.


      All the old revolver target shooters had one of these. It uses a brass screen to pull leading out.

      Another good method is to buy a can of Kroil from Brownell's. This is a SUPER penetrating fluid that can penetrate into a crack one millionth of an inch wide.
      This was discovered by the benchrest shooters. It will penetrate under leading and lift it off so it can be brushed out.
      Even better, for tough fouling is to use Kroil with JB Bore Paste.
      If it can be removed, JB and Kroil will do it.

      If it's actually copper fouling, use a good stronger copper solvent.


      Ultrasonics are best at removing normal greasy fouling not leading.
      To get leading out you'd probably have to let it run a long time.
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