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I used a medium fine and fine fine india stone and lightly polished the sides of the sear and the ends of the two legs of the sear, the trigger hooks (very lightly so as not to change the 90 deg. angle) the bottom of the disconnector, and the trigger bow sides and back. The parts have a minuet edge around each part and the stoning will take that sharp edge off. I also put a .020 feeler gage under the back of the sear and very very lightly stoned the seconday angle of the sear. I left the primary angle alone ( didn't buy a sear gage, not something you want to do without one ).I also made two very light passes over the fine fine stone on the edge of the sear where the primary and secondary sear angles meet. This just breaks the very sharp edge between the two angles. As you can tell I used very light pressure and if in doubt I left the part or area untouched. Ed's parts are extremely well made and finished. With very little work I got my trigger pull down to 4 LBS with no creep and it breaks like the proverbial glass rod. The take up on the trigger is about 1/16 in now, much better than stock. I am very happy with my first 1911 trigger job and the credit really goes to his parts!!Nick A said:
I used Jerry Kuhnhausens book The Colt 45 Automatic A Shop Manual and the trigger job notes from www.blindhogg.com. Brownells also has some good notes in ther how to section.
(http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/newsletterarchive.aspx)
I bought these pins from Brownells so I could mount the hammer and sear on the outside of the frame. This way you can see how good or bad the parts fit using your guns frame.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=677&title=TRIGGER+ADJUSTMENT+PINS
