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      Check out Ed Brown's website, Wilson Combat's website or Brownells. The GI setup is what your looking for.

      The full length guide rod may add extra weight to the front end, but either choice is fine...not much difference.

      Plug
      http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1357/Product/RECOIL_SPRING_PLUGS_for_1911_AUTO

      Guide
      http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41714/Product/RECOIL_SPRING_GUIDES_for_1911_AUTO

      As for the ILS, if your not going to use it...no worries. Some guys choose to replace their mainspring housing with standard parts...personal preference.
       
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      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      I didn't want to thread jack the "after market parts" thread.

      I have a 2011 Tactical.

      I cannot use a 'capped' recoil spring plug in conjuction with a full length guide rod.

      Though I really want to add a stainless plug, that is more comfortable on my thumb, to my parts bin (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=...11-AUTO-BULLET-PROOF-trade-RECOIL-SPRING-PLUG) or (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1357/avs|Make_3=1911/Product/RECOIL-SPRING-PLUGS-for-1911-AUTO) but I don't want to switch to a shorter guide rod because I recently read people noticed issues with that change/set-up in the tactical RIA.

      If I do, this (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41714/Product/RECOIL-SPRING-GUIDES-for-1911-AUTO) is, and the cap, all I would need, correct?

      I also want to know if I can simply drop in this barrel bushing or if fitment is required (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=...Product/ANGLED-BORED-BUSHING-WITH-CARRY-BEVEL)

      I do not have a dremel and fitting peices is not something I want to have to deal with at this time.


      Also, I would like to polish just the business end of the barrel, the actual opening. Is this something I can do without a dremel? My thoughts are no but I figure someone is likely to know at least a few pointers to help me out.


      Thanks for any help/advice.
       
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      Kimber SIS 5"; Guncrafter Industries railed 5"; Doublestar railed 5", Springfield Professional
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      Yes, I've replaced a Kimber one-piece full-length guide rod in my TLE II Custom, back when I owned one. My other two Kimbers already had the regular G.I. guide rod. While I was buying the G.I. guide rod, I also ordered a new recoil spring plug.

      I bought Ed Brown parts:
      PLUG: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-p...ugs-prod1357.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=ED+BROWN

      GUIDE ROD: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-p...es-prod41714.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=ED+BROWN

      I like Wilson-Combat parts, too, but that time I just happened to choose Ed Brown brand.

      With the G.I. set-up, I can more easily field strip the 1911 without using a bushing wrench during both the disassembly and reassembly. With Kimber's full length type parts, I'm just unable to depress the recoil spring plug using only my fingers as the front edge of the plug has that guide-rod going through the front hole and the edge around the plug's hole is a bit sharp.

      Using some type of tool (like the bottom of a magazine) made it too easy for me to launch that spring plug. I'm glad I wasn't working on the gun while watching my big screen TV or I could have shattered the TV screen.

      Otherwise, Kimber's FLGR works fine, but, for me, I've got to have one of the 1911 bushing tools handy with a FLGR. Now, I've only got three 1911 guns (all 5" and only one of which is a Kimber now) and all three have G.I. guide-rods as that's what I prefer.

      A positive thing about Kimber's FLGR is that it's made in a one-piece design and doesn't unscrew. Some folks have had their Springfield-Armory brand FLGRs unscrew at inconvenient times (like at the range).
       
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