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1911 build

686 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  theraptur
Hello everyone, I have a question that probably has been asked 1000 times. First, I don’t have a lot of fun money these days but I have a burning desire to build a 1911 45 auto. I’m looking for advice on what to save up for , my guess is a frame and slide. Then the guts. I have 2 off the shelf 1911s ( won’t mention brand, we don’t need another 19 page pissing match) any advice will be greatly appreciated. I do have a little mechanical ability.
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Well, so far the best way to get in cheap that I've seen is:
  1. Read the Tisas and Gunsmithing subforums here
  2. Get yourself some basic tools
  3. Order an Apropos Tisas in the caliber you prefer
  4. Start ordering and installing the replacement parts that Make It Yours.
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Fair heads up, I have about as much money in 1911 dedicated tools as it would cost to get hold of a Dan Wesson. And that list is slowly growing.

For starters you'll want a set of slide hones for making sure the slide & frame fit together. Maybe some lapping compound. And a couple different sizes of files. I've got everything from the little 4 inch ones to the 12 inch long files.

Then there are various other odds and ends. Barrel fitting jigs, barrel lug cutters. A checkering file if you're feeling frisky enough to try to hand checker your front strap. You'll probably want a brass punch. A hammer & sear jig. Probably some sort of beavertail fitting jig, depending on what kind of beavertail you choose. Don't be like me and get an Ed Brow Beavertail jig and buy a Wilson Combat beavertail, the Wilson requires a whole other jig. I'm still not sure what to do with the Wilson beavertail. 300, 600, and 1,000 grit paper for cleaning up scratches after fitting your beavertail to your frame (and other odds and ends).

I'm sure there's something in there I'm forgetting. Maybe a decking jig, if your frame will require the deck height and dust cover get squared away by you?

Try to buy two of everything. Just in case you booger one up while learning. Maybe one cheap throw-away part, and one shiny expensive part. Make your learning mistakes on the throw-away part, then be more careful with the part you intend to live on the gun.

And then when it's all together, you have the joy of figuring out how you intend to finish the pistol. I'm fond of cerakote just because I'm already familiar with using a paint sprayer. Parkerizing didn't look like too terrible a process, so maybe that's doable as well. It's a fun journey. I've been kicking around the idea of starting a new project soon-ish.
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When I built my 38 Super it started life as a cheap GI 9mm Rock Island.
I bought a Rock Island 38 Super complete kit minus the frame on eBay. Plus some Wilson Combat trigger parts
Swapped the entire slide, better sights and most of the internals. Slide fit better than the original.

Before and after pictures

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You'll spend considerable money just on tools. Buy Kuhnhausen's "1911 Shop Manual" and read it about 10 times and then decide if you want to build a gun. Building a 1911 requires patience and attention to fine detail. If you just "assemble" the gun like it was an AR it most likely won't run and may not even be safe to operate.
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When I built my 38 Super it started life as a cheap GI 9mm Rock Island.
I bought a Rock Island 38 Super complete kit minus the frame on eBay. Plus some Wilson Combat trigger parts
Swapped the entire slide, better sights and most of the internals. Slide fit better than the original.

Before and after pictures
View attachment 681735
View attachment 681736
Nice work.
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Hello everyone, I have a question that probably has been asked 1000 times. First, I don’t have a lot of fun money these days but I have a burning desire to build a 1911 45 auto. I’m looking for advice on what to save up for , my guess is a frame and slide. Then the guts. I have 2 off the shelf 1911s ( won’t mention brand, we don’t need another 19 page pissing match) any advice will be greatly appreciated. I do have a little mechanical ability.
Building a 1911 is a world in itself. You will make mistakes but learn from them. Would not recommend starting out with and 80% frame unless you have machine skills. Another post advised you to get a low cost complete pistol then start from that. That’s a good way to go. Learn every part and how it works don’t be in a hurry to buy a bunch of parts till you understand how it works. Then make a plan on what you would like on your pistol. Work towards it. You will need someplace to work on it and there’s one tool that I use all the time and that is a good vice with pads so a good workbench and vice is important. Good luck on your project. 1911’s Forever
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My suggestion would be to make "upgrade" mods to the 1911's you have. This will help you learn and also to slowly acquire the tools to best perform the various t asks . Also, you need to get to the point where you can disassemble & reassemble your 1911's blindfolded (not really :)) because you'll be doing a lot of that as you "fit" the parts.
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When I built my 38 Super it started life as a cheap GI 9mm Rock Island.
I bought a Rock Island 38 Super complete kit minus the frame on eBay. Plus some Wilson Combat trigger parts
Swapped the entire slide, better sights and most of the internals. Slide fit better than the original.

Before and after pictures
View attachment 681735
View attachment 681736
Thanks for that, I was considering building my mext project off some sort of GI frame. I'm guessing that's a Wilson Combat grip safety after doing a bit of web searching. I like the notion of putting a beavertail on without having to modify the frame (so it can be put back to original configuration later). That's a nice set up. Did you blend that to the frame at all, or just let it ride as-is?
Thanks everyone for responding, sounds like I better re think the whole idea
I am all for starting with an inexpensive 1911 that already works. If you do it, one improvement at a time. And see if it still works. I believe that about any 1911 can be made “right”. The question is how much time and money do you have? Skills seem to transfer a bit if you are already good with your hands. The tooling adds up quickly.

The good news is that with enough experience, and mistakes, you will never have to send off a 1911 for service. Other than maybe refinishing.

That is a big deal. When a mid range or upper tier 1911 coughs or sneezes, I don’t want to send it anywhere. Even upper tier 1911’s can have teething troubles. No one is going to pour 500 rounds through one at a shop before it ships.
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Man, it doesn't even make sense to be talkin' Wilson this and that until you can fit the cheapass import parts - let alone investing into tooling as well.

Get working 1911.. Remove a part? Label and bag it and fitr a replacement. If it ain't working, try the OLD PART. Now figure what went wrong.

At least this way you can still throw yer hands in the air and replace all the OEM parts and it will WORK.
I am all for starting with an inexpensive 1911 that already works. If you do it, one improvement at a time. And see if it still works. I believe that about any 1911 can be made “right”. The question is how much time and money do you have? Skills seem to transfer a bit if you are already good with your hands. The tooling adds up quickly.

The good news is that with enough experience, and mistakes, you will never have to send off a 1911 for service. Other than maybe refinishing.

That is a big deal. When a mid range or upper tier 1911 coughs or sneezes, I don’t want to send it anywhere. Even upper tier 1911’s can have teething troubles. No one is going to pour 500 rounds through one at a shop before it ships.
A man who cut right to the chase.

FWIW, get to really handling, operating, feeling all the little wiggles and shakes in every aspect of your unloaded pistols. You would be surprised how much you can do to make it more of what it is.
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Thanks for all the responses!
Thanks for that, I was considering building my mext project off some sort of GI frame. I'm guessing that's a Wilson Combat grip safety after doing a bit of web searching. I like the notion of putting a beavertail on without having to modify the frame (so it can be put back to original configuration later). That's a nice set up. Did you blend that to the frame at all, or just let it ride as-is?
Yes, it's a Wilson Combat, it did need fitted to the frame. I modified the beaver tail instead of the frame for fitment.

I have 3 other 9mm 1911's so if I needed to modify the frame, no big deal. I accidently won two auctions, ( forgot I had bid on one ) so one over showing the most use became a 38 Super.
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This started out as a Enterprize Arms frame. It has a Rock Island slide and barrel that came from eBay I made the guide rod and plunger. Lots of parts from eBay seller Klonimus. Cerakote by Anchor Arms, Glasgow Ky.
So, first get yourself a frame and go from there....
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Thanks for input nick11
Thanks for that, I was considering building my mext project off some sort of GI frame.

I have a project pistol that started life as a Tisas A1 Service Special. I've done a bunch of work to it including refitting frame and slide and a new barrel as well as just about everything in between. But I started by upgrading and fitting new parts on other pistols and then onto increasingly more difficult tasks such as fitting a sear and hammer, beavertail, etc. My favorite parts are extractors, sears/trigger work, and a smooth machine like feel. I have had a dozen 1911's and every single one of them is now tuned and improved, still have ten of them. Many I used stock parts to tune and practice such as sears and extractors. I have ruined some parts too. You learn from those.

You can indeed do it! You will need tools! There is a plethora of help here as well. I have tons of threads on my experiences with just about every damn part the thing has. It is very satisfying and a worthy endeavor to learn to work on your own.

My project pistol before it headed out for refinishing.
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