[jtq]

does a anti corrosion lubricant substitutes gun oil for lubrication purposes? if so, wich is it better?

I'm not sure what you would categorize as "anti corrosion lubricant", but in general, it is more important that you use lube rather than what kind of lube you use.

We have a mega lube thread if you'd like to see some opinions

Lubricants and Cleaning Products and Techniques

What do you guys use to lube your slides and does it matter; steel, aluminum or poly.? Thanks

www.1911forum.com

My general choice is a CLP (it's not a brand, it is a category of product, manufactured by many companies), and I usually choose the non-toxic (or rather, the less toxic) versions.

 

[jtq]

As data points, here are four pretty good 1911 lubrication videos. All three use different products and a little differently.

Dave Anderson

Hickok45

Wilson Combat

Mrgunsngear

 

[1saxman]

Any good CLP is going to provide more than adequate corrosion protection. You may have to use it more often in severe environments like marine use or carrying directly against the skin.

 

[sawman556]

I like G96 CLP for cleaning and FP-10 and TW25B for lubricating. CLP will work for lube, but IMO not the best option.

 

[jtq]

I like G96 CLP for cleaning and FP-10 and TW25B for lubricating. CLP will work for lube, but IMO not the best option.

Just for clarity, G96 CLP and FP-10 are both CLP's.

 

[The War Wagon]

I'm partial to Weapon Shield... 1) because it works, and 2) because its made about 7 miles away from where I'm typing this.

 

[sawman556]

Just for clarity, G96 CLP and FP-10 are both CLP's.

I guess you are technically correct, but I usually refer to any of the spray cans as a CLP.

 

[jtq]

I guess you are technically correct, but I usually refer to any of the spray cans as a CLP.

Weapon Shield listed above is also a CLP, as is Ballistol, SLIP 2000, Gunzilla, Frog Lube, BreakFree CLP, etc., the list goes on and on.

I've used a lot of CLP's over the years, and Ballistol is the only one I've used that has been in aerosol form. I'm not saying Ballistol is the only one available as an aerosol (I also have the liquid Ballistol), but most CLP's can be had in regular liquid form.

 

[frogfurr]

I think everything is labeled CLP these days

 

[Madisonian]

Sewing machine oil and light grease, depending on the parts. The grease is never applied as a "goop," just as a thin film as one would rub on with a finger.

I have used the "way oil" that I use on my lathe and surface grinder, but it stinks! So, no more.

 

[Kevin Rohrer]

Do not use WD40. CLP or similar product is what you want.

 

[sagablu]

One thing I have learned, regardless of your preference of lube use more rather than less. Excess will sling off and you will avoid unneeded malfunctions

 

[gw104]

Permatec engine assembly lube on the rails and mobile 1 engine oil on everything else. Cold weather environment, cut the permatec with the mobile 1.

 

[991199]

Try a few bottles, and see what you like. When I mean try, shoot 150 rds, and see what you think. I use LPX, Breakthrough, and some Wilson grease.

 

[Autonomous]

I'm just as guilty of buying the greatest super oil as anyone else. Thing is a 1911's lubrication needs are modest.
Hoppe's Elite oil and Rem Oil are very thin, maybe best for very cold conditions. Frog Lube is quirky and it's popularity has waned account of it's peculiarities. Otherwise most gun oils are okay.

 

[redeemed]

Permatec engine assembly lube on the rails and mobile 1 engine oil on everything else. Cold weather environment, cut the permatec with the mobile 1.

This is what I do with all my semi autos. Except I use super lube for the grease.

 

[Zack856]

I like an oil for high temperature high speed hardened steel applications like hair clipper oil and sewing machine oil. Rem oil is close but seems a tad "gooey". I think you can get close enough with just one of those 3 and q-tips but a primer of brake parts cleaner or hoppes #9 beforehand would probably be ideal. Just don't gunk up your breechface. Everybody wants to call the 1911 unreliable but nobody wants to pull their firing pin and extractor to clean the channels. You don't have to do that as often if you keep them dry. Soak the rest if you don't mind oil on your clothes.

 

[TTAC]

I use Breakfree clp for cleaning. Then I flush with gun scrubber, then I lube then I lube the moving parts with Breakfree lp ( think this has been renamed Full Synthetic) . It’s a hair thicker than their clp. Then the outside of the gun gets a mist of Birchwood Casey Barricade and wipe with a clean soft rag. The clp could be used for the whole job but like the Barricade goes on like a light spray than a thick glob so each work better for special purposes

 

[Madisonian]

I don't think it's a good idea to use motor oils on guns. They contain additives including detergents that keep wear particles and moisture in suspension, which is what you want in an engine with a pressure oiling system and filter, but not a firearm or machine too.

I realize that oil arguments are the number two application of the internet, and I'm not trying to start one, just wanted to point this out for someone who hasn't heard of it.

I prefer the simplest lubricants. If I could get sperm oil (whale oil) I would use it!