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Primer bar sticks when the press is cycled in the full up position and I have to push it slightly to get it to go forward when going back to the start position. My new 550 doesn't do this. This press was bought back in 2003 and I've loaded a few thousand rounds. I cleaned the bar with rubbing alcohol and it works ok but than back to sticking. Anybody else come across this?
 

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Take the primer system apart. The two Allen screws that attach the primer system go up into the aluminum housing into steel heli-coils. If those screws were over torqued (it does not take much) the aluminum housing will get deformed around the heli-coils. This results in protrusions into the slot that the primer bar travels in.

Place something with flat edge into the cavity and check the uniformity of the wall with the heli-coils. If there are lumps you have found your problem or a problem. If it isn't flat a regular metal file will square up the aluminum in short order.

I know this from personal experience. When I removed the bumps my primer bar functioned perfectly. I am now very careful putting things together after cleaning the primer system.
 

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Clean the bar, the steel slide, the inside of the primer bar guide/primer dispenser(?) (aluminum part that those two allen screws go into) and anything that might be dropping grains of powder or spent primer residue onto the steel slide.

I've got an idea to help it out that I'm working on...trust me, I'll share it here if I get it to work!
 

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D550 primer bar sticks....

Once you make certain it doesn't have any bumps or distortions that could cause it to stick, you may have to adjust the wire primer bar arm that allows the primer bar to move forward and back......since you said this press is over ten years old, over time, the angle of the primer wire arm may need some slight adjustment (usually at the bottom of the wire where it rests against the nylon roller) to allow a full stroke with no "sticking" of the primer bar......
 

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I've installed and about to use a rather ingenious product from a guy in Texas which appears to be the perfect solution—and a very well designed one at that —for the one notoriously weak link in the 550. Do an Ebay search for "Dillon 550B 550 Primer Track Bearing Plate W/Ball Bearing Upgrade-2nd Generation". It runs $29 shipped.

I've used my Dillon for over 65,000 rounds in 9mm, .40, 10mm and .45 and tried all the tricks: polishing primer bars, using Mag Slick dry lube on all the parts, cleaning the part Dillon calls a primer plate bearing every 100 rounds and including replacing the worn primer track bearing plate every 5 - 6,000 rounds and replacing worn primer bars.

From the looks of it, this is the best fix and can't wait to make some rounds today. It resolves two issues. (1) the spring pulls the bar downward on full extension, wearing the primer plate. Check yours and you'll probably see wear which inevitably roughens the end and creates feed problems. This product has an extended primer plate bearing to eliminate this issue. (2) a ball bearing on the new extended primer plate keeps the primer bar in proper alignment, which is crucial for smooth operation.

I'll report back once I've made some rounds, but it's received good reviews on competitive shooting forums like Brian Enos, which is where I first heard of it.
 

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I've installed and about to use a rather ingenious product from a guy in Colorado which appears to be the perfect solution—and a very well designed one at that —for the one notoriously weak link in the 550. Do an Ebay search for "Dillon 550B 550 Primer Track Bearing Plate W/Ball Bearing Upgrade-2nd Generation". It runs $29 shipped.
Please give us a report when you've formed an opinion. Is there a website for this product? (other than Ebay?)
 

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used the Ebay plate for a while now.. .much improved from the standard Dillon plate.. the entire cycle of the primer bar is now very smooth. not sure the ball bearing is needed but it's a nice addition.
 

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My 550B used to do the same thing.
In my case, it turned out to be the primer bar housing had become worn & oversize at the ends, with the primer bar wearing under-size also, causing the bar to travel thru the housing at a slight angle when fully inserted or fully extended. Dillon sent me a new housing and a newly designed bar which is hard coated in what appears to be hard chrome.
Works like a charm. Now the bar travels straight in line completely through the housing
from end to end. God Bless Dillon, who has saved my 550B reloader for the last 25 years.
 

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Yes I think Dillon has redesigned their primer bars, I'm having an issue with mine too, and the new slides are hollowed out on the slide side where as my old one was solid so less slide contact.
Best/picker
 

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used the Ebay plate for a while now.. .much improved from the standard Dillon plate.. the entire cycle of the primer bar is now very smooth. not sure the ball bearing is needed but it's a nice addition.
If the ball bearing is not needed then they are pretty pricey for what you get ?
But if it makes your Dillon run smoother it's worth it. I get tired of sticking slides seems like as soon as I get on a roll dang slide starts acting up.
Best/picker
 

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Guys, I just finished loading 250 rounds of 10mm large primer.

The verdict: this is a five star product and a bargain, heck a steal, for the improvement it makes. The primer assembly runs incredibly smooth now. For those doubting the benefit of the ball bearing, well I have to disagree. It keeps the primer bar in perfect alignment throughout the process…without it, the bar is always under torque to the slde to an extent because of the operating rod. I can look at my well worn primer slides and see the divot the the primer housing eventually wears in the slide because of this. A bonus is now the primer seating actually has a little better feel than before.

Another nice thing is that the new track bearing is that it is highly polished metal, and can be repolished once the inevitable primer grit and debris starts to erode the smooth surface, which should extend its useful life. You can't do that with the Dillon OEM primer bearing plates because they are coated.

If you get one, follow setup directions carefully. Like I always do on the OEM components, I gave the bearing plate a light spray of Mag Slick on installation.

After using it just for a single run, I wouldn't be without it if it cost $49, not $29. As always, YMMV.
 

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I've replaced two bars and plates in the last three years all free of charge from Dillion, BUT, I just ordered one of these little jewels
 

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I've installed and about to use a rather ingenious product from a guy in Colorado which appears to be the perfect solution—and a very well designed one at that —for the one notoriously weak link in the 550. Do an Ebay search for "Dillon 550B 550 Primer Track Bearing Plate W/Ball Bearing Upgrade-2nd Generation". It runs $29 shipped.

I've used my Dillon for over 65,000 rounds in 9mm, .40, 10mm and .45 and tried all the tricks: polishing primer bars, using Mag Slick dry lube on all the parts, cleaning the part Dillon calls a primer plate bearing every 100 rounds and including replacing the worn primer track bearing plate every 5 - 6,000 rounds and replacing worn primer bars.

From the looks of it, this is the best fix and can't wait to make some rounds today. It resolves two issues. (1) the spring pulls the bar downward on full extension, wearing the primer plate. Check yours and you'll probably see wear which inevitably roughens the end and creates feed problems. This product has an extended primer plate bearing to eliminate this issue. (2) a ball bearing on the new extended primer plate keeps the primer bar in proper alignment, which is crucial for smooth operation.

I'll report back once I've made some rounds, but it's received good reviews on competitive shooting forums like Brian Enos, which is where I first heard of it.
The guy that sells these in in Texas, I bought one and have had several thousand trouble free rounds since in my 550.
 

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The guy that sells these in in Texas, I bought one and have had several thousand trouble free rounds since in my 550.
You're correct…was confusing another vendor I was dealing with at the same time. I'll correct my earlier post.
 

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Don't over tighten the allens that hold the assembly on, mine are almost loose and try some spray lube that drys on the bar itself. Most important keep it clean.
 

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Can this item be bought other than on flea-bay?
I can readily see where that item resolves a few different possible issues.
I tried looking up JW Systems in Armarillo, TX, but no results?
 
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