[13JFOguy]

Hello everyone, longtime lurker, first-time poster. I've owned a few 1911s from different makers and I recently decided to try out the whole 80% project. Stealth Arms made an aluminum 1911 frame blank that one can cut and drill at home.

Has anyone completed one of these frames and scratch builds before? I apologize if there's already been a post about this -- I didn't see one. Any input or opinions are greatly appreciated (before I sink the cash into the parts and tools).

 

[Fire Chief]

Here are the first three I have built.

 

[ccssid]

You may want to try a build starting with 100% frame, such as those by Jem and add a slide by caspian or remsport. this way you are guaranteed a very solid foundation starting out. Add internals by Harrison, EGW, etc and you are good to go.

 

[Bob Rockefeller]

You may want to try a build starting with 100% frame, such as those by Jem and add a slide by caspian or remsport. this way you are guaranteed a very solid foundation starting out. Add internals by Harrison, EGW, etc and you are good to go.

This is exactly how I did (am doing) my first build. I've enjoyed it so much that I'll do the next from an 80% frame using a bench top mill.

It's really the frame that's the difference. You'll have to very accurately deck the frame, drill the sear and hammer pin holes, and then cut the frame rails. After that, it's like a 100% build.

 

[DesmoAndrew]

check out fellow forum member Mosin Virus on you tube, he has several vids that speak to 80% builds.

Hello everyone, longtime lurker, first-time poster. I've owned a few 1911s from different makers and I recently decided to try out the whole 80% project. Stealth Arms made an aluminum 1911 frame blank that one can cut and drill at home.

Has anyone completed one of these frames and scratch builds before? I apologize if there's already been a post about this -- I didn't see one. Any input or opinions are greatly appreciated (before I sink the cash into the parts and tools).

 

[13JFOguy]

This is exactly how I did (am doing) my first build. I've enjoyed it so much that I'll do the next from an 80% frame using a bench top mill.

It's really the frame that's the difference. You'll have to very accurately deck the frame, drill the sear and hammer pin holes, and then cut the frame rails. After that, it's like a 100% build.

That's reassuring to hear, thank you. Can you tell me which kit you used, specifically? Also, did you go for a Gov or Commander frame? This is the 1911 frame and jig I was looking at: https://www.80-lower.com/products/45-acp-5-government-anodized-black-1911-80-frame-jig-bundle/

 

[Bob Rockefeller]

That's reassuring to hear, thank you. Can you tell me which kit you used, specifically? Also, did you go for a Gov or Commander frame? This is the 1911 frame and jig I was looking at: https://www.80-lower.com/products/45-acp-5-government-anodized-black-1911-80-frame-jig-bundle/

I haven’t picked my 80% frame yet. It will likely be a Government in 9mm with a Clark/Para ramp.

This might be the frame (in 4140): https://www.1911builders.com/product/1911-80-full-size-gi-frame-416r-or-4140-with-smooth-grip/

And this might be the jig for my mill: https://www.1911builders.com/product/1911-para-double-stack-80-end-mill-fixture/

 

[warp2diesel]

I liked my Tactical Machining Gov Blem so much, I waited and bought a Recon Blem on the Black Friday Deal too.
I bought my 9mm 1911 Gov from Urban Survival Arms.

Shopping for an 80% frame is like Hunting, only on the internet. Don't be shocked if you have to keep looking for months for what you want. Same goes for the rest of the parts.
One Trick I highly recommend is buy a version of what is shown at the following link to organize the parts: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-divider-storage-container-medium-94457.html
A $3.99 investment in the storage container is a lot cheaper than loosing a $39.99 part. Besides, you won't get your hammers, sears, or grip safeties mixed up. Also, you can set one of your 1911s aside for a couple months, you can resume without having to waste time rounding up or test fitting your parts to verify which frame it goes with.

BTW, I am a Mill guy.

 

[13JFOguy]

I liked my Tactical Machining Gov Blem so much, I waited and bought a Recon Blem on the Black Friday Deal too.
I bought my 9mm 1911 Gov from Urban Survival Arms.

Shopping for an 80% frame is like Hunting, only on the internet. Don't be shocked if you have to keep looking for months for what you want. Same goes for the rest of the parts.
One Trick I highly recommend is buy a version of what is shown at the following link to organize the parts: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-divider-storage-container-medium-94457.html
A $3.99 investment in the storage container is a lot cheaper than loosing a $39.99 part. Besides, you won't get your hammers, sears, or grip safeties mixed up. Also, you can set one of your 1911s aside for a couple months, you can resume without having to waste time rounding up or test fitting your parts to verify which frame it goes with.

BTW, I am a Mill guy.

That's a good recommendation. Thinking on this whole thing further, I might just pull the trigger (no pun intended) on one of the complete build kits advertised from Stealth Arms (https://www.80-lower.com/products/9...black-frame-w-free-portable-handgun-lock-box/). They're priced well enough, and thus everything is guaranteed to fit, according to some other builders and pictures I've seen. The do-it-by-hand process with the Stealth jig seems slow, but simple. I've little experience milling, though I know some have attempted basic work with a drill press and plunge cuts, etc.

 

[Bantry]

That's a good recommendation. Thinking on this whole thing further, I might just pull the trigger (no pun intended) on one of the complete build kits advertised from Stealth Arms (https://www.80-lower.com/products/9...black-frame-w-free-portable-handgun-lock-box/). They're priced well enough, and thus everything is guaranteed to fit, according to some other builders and pictures I've seen. The do-it-by-hand process with the Stealth jig seems slow, but simple. I've little experience milling, though I know some have attempted basic work with a drill press and plunge cuts, etc.

Completing 80% frames on a table top mill is not that difficult. I milled out some AR15 lowers to start teaching myself how to mill metal, asked a lot of questions on various forums, and then finished some 80% 1911 frames.

I'm the perfect example that shows almost anyone can complete an 80% 1911 frame.

Start by milling scrap metal to get a feel for your mill. Then measure 5 times, go slow, make very shallow cuts to start, measure 5 more times...take your time. There are lots of great videos on youtube to learn from.

There is a ton of satisfaction shooting a 1911 that YOU made. Oh, and when you screw up something during the milling just know you are not the first one to ever do that. Enjoy.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
But you can not sale an 80% frame when it is finished right?

No serial #?

Or can you add a number and then sale it, or sale it FTF?

 

[K0025xx]

Hi,
But you can not sale an 80% frame when it is finished right?

No serial #?

Or can you add a number and then sale it, or sale it FTF?

You can SELL it but that's an entirely different topic.

 

[beemer606]

I did the Stealth Arms frame and jig. I used a build kit from Sarco. Used a different trigger and grip safety that I had on hand. Just follow the directions that come with the jig. There is usually some fitting and tweeking needed to make things work. I really learned a lot from this last one because I had some problems that forced me to figure out how to fix the issues. This forum was a great help. There are Some very knowledgeable people here.

 

[drdud]

Here are some things to consider as you move in the direction of building your own "Handmade" 1911. It has been my pleasure to build a quite number of 1911's, Sig 229's and different types of AR's and have been involved with and assisted on numerous others.

Because of it's beauty, history and how good it feels in the hand, I was anxious to build my own 1911. I did my homework, read a lot, studied Youtube videos (thank you, Igor) and learned what was available in the areas of frames, parts and tools. I wanted to be prepared to start work when my frame arrived so I wrote up what I thought would be a minimum list of my required tools. "WOW!!!" I says to meself. So, i went to a friend from work who also wanted to build hisself a 1911 and his comment was "WOW!!!, instead of paying $700 each we should invite my two sons, your two sons and son in law, friends from work, friends from church, yer airline buddies and the whole world to join a "Cold Dead Hands" club for $100 each. So we did. Forteen guys paid $100 each for access to $1400 worth of special 1911 tools and everyone ordered parts. Work with the tool is done in my shop. No loans.

I already had a good, heavy three axis knee mil, ($500 when you find the right seller) so with the special tools we were ready to git moving. You will be directed to all sorts of good parts sources but I am going to ask you to consider that you are embarking on a totally knew direction for your entertainment.

Consider that you do not need, and at this point in your vast gun handbuilding experience you may not be able to justify, spending anything more than the cost of generic 1911 parts, some of which you are about to destroy. Do yerself the favor of investigating SARCO, Inc. They sell more 1911 parts than anyone else on earth and most of those parts go to homebuilders. Armscor, (Rock Island Armory) has long supplied parts to Sarco. Rock Island Armory also makes a respectable and favorably priced 1911.

I encourage you to look through each page of 1911 parts and kits. You might consider buying a complete (less frame) 45 kit or the 9mm kit. Most of our Club members spent about $550 on their builds. Each gun functioned correctly except the magazines did not hold back any slide when empty. Although Sarco offered to replace mine I set them aside and bought McCormick replacements.

Home finishing steel frames is pretty easy when Parkerizing or nickel plating if the builder does everything correctly. Aluminum frames can be annodized in most areas for a reasonable fee.

I encourage you as you move out on this new adventure. If you get discouraged just remember that at one time everyone on this Forum started out where you are right now: wondering, ........do I pick up the 'puter and look up Sarco, Inc., or do I open up that cold Sauvignon Blanc and get prepared for Jeopardy?

 

[K0025xx]

Here are some things to consider as you move in the direction of building your own "Handmade" 1911. It has been my pleasure to build a quite number of 1911's, Sig 229's and different types of AR's and have been involved with and assisted on numerous others.

Because of it's beauty, history and how good it feels in the hand, I was anxious to build my own 1911. I did my homework, read a lot, studied Youtube videos (thank you, Igor) and learned what was available in the areas of frames, parts and tools. I wanted to be prepared to start work when my frame arrived so I wrote up what I thought would be a minimum list of my required tools. "WOW!!!" I says to meself. So, i went to a friend from work who also wanted to build hisself a 1911 and his comment was "WOW!!!, instead of paying $700 each we should invite my two sons, your two sons and son in law, friends from work, friends from church, yer airline buddies and the whole world to join a "Cold Dead Hands" club for $100 each. So we did. Forteen guys paid $100 each for access to $1400 worth of special 1911 tools and everyone ordered parts. Work with the tool is done in my shop. No loans.

I already had a good, heavy three axis knee mil, ($500 when you find the right seller) so with the special tools we were ready to git moving. You will be directed to all sorts of good parts sources but I am going to ask you to consider that you are embarking on a totally knew direction for your entertainment.

Consider that you do not need, and at this point in your vast gun handbuilding experience you may not be able to justify, spending anything more than the cost of generic 1911 parts, some of which you are about to destroy. Do yerself the favor of investigating SARCO, Inc. They sell more 1911 parts than anyone else on earth and most of those parts go to homebuilders. Armscor, (Rock Island Armory) has long supplied parts to Sarco. Rock Island Armory also makes a respectable and favorably priced 1911.

I encourage you to look through each page of 1911 parts and kits. You might consider buying a complete (less frame) 45 kit or the 9mm kit. Most of our Club members spent about $550 on their builds. Each gun functioned correctly except the magazines did not hold back any slide when empty. Although Sarco offered to replace mine I set them aside and bought McCormick replacements.

Home finishing steel frames is pretty easy when Parkerizing or nickel plating if the builder does everything correctly. Aluminum frames can be annodized in most areas for a reasonable fee.

I encourage you as you move out on this new adventure. If you get discouraged just remember that at one time everyone on this Forum started out where you are right now: wondering, ........do I pick up the 'puter and look up Sarco, Inc., or do I open up that cold Sauvignon Blanc and get prepared for Jeopardy?

Great post. Thanks!

 

[TRX302]

http://dave2.freeshell.org/1911/index.htm

This page has archived 80%, 60%, and 0% build threads near the bottom, with links to the original forum threads.

The pages have an ".htm" extension instead of ".html" which gives some newer browsers indigestion.

Most of the original forum threads are now useless because the pictures were hosted on Photobucket or one of the other now-defunct picture hosts, but they're in included in the archived threads.