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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy all. I'm starting on a caliber I've never done before - 8mm Mauser. I've done a search, with no results, and I'm fairly new here, so please forgive me if I've missed something. What I'd like to know, is whether I should neck size only, or full length size this new (or soon to be used) brass (to be loaded with a Privi 200gr FMJ - all I could find on short notice:cool: - still looking though!)? I know I neck size my .303 brass for my SMLE due to it being rather rough on brass b/c of it's somewhat unsupported nature (but this's my first Mauser). This is new Privi brass, and will be used in a Yugo M48. Further load details TBD! I'll be using either WW or CCI primers though! ;)
This rifle is supposed to be unissued - and it looks the part. It has been fired though, but with literally NO wear and tear. I still need to do a detail strip for cleaning, too, still has a bit of cosmoline in it. Got a steep learning curve here, since I'd like to make some pew pews as soon as possible - WITHOUT cutting any corners! Been at this reloading/handloading thing too long for shortcuts!! Anyway, I look forward to your responses. Can't wait to get it to the range!!!! 馃槏馃槏(y)(y):cool::cool:

TIA,
Mike.
 

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If it were me, I'd full length resize the first time out of a new rifle. After that, if you are going to shoot it out of the same rifle, neck size would do. Oh, by the way, I would sure love to see a couple pictures of that rifle. :)

My $0.02
Grumpy
 

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Most of the surplus rifles I've bought that were in unissued condition, including a Yugo 24/47, had 'generous' chambers. As do most military rifles. Cleanliness is not often found in battle. Ammo as well as rifles can get rather cruddy.
 

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Just an FYI from previous experience; if loading military brass some manufactures brass can be heavier (thicker brass) so should weigh brass against US commercial brass to identify as heavier military brass will create higher pressures so after firing check primers for pressure signs.
 

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Just an FYI from previous experience; if loading military brass some manufactures brass can be heavier (thicker brass) so should weigh brass against US commercial brass to identify as heavier military brass will create higher pressures so after firing check primers for pressure signs.

Always good advice, but if I may elaborate.

Most US-SAAMI 8mm ammo and loading data has been held to 30-30 levels, due to the vast numbers of 1888 German 'Commission' rifles once imported, which had a somewhat weaker action than the Mod.98 and were originally issued with a bore cut for .318dia J-bullets. The Mod.98 and later 8mm (7.9x57) Mauser rifles used a barrel rifled for a .323dia JS-bullet. Not all were properly rebarreled. Firing a full-power 7.9x57 JS round in an 1888 rifle with J-bore has been known to have some ugly consequences.

And of the surplus I've bought and fired over the past few decades (Turk,Yugo,Czech), it was all Berdan-primed.
 

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Years ago when I had a time and place to fire my 8mm Mauser rifles (including my Hakim) much more than now, I would turn my 30-06 brass that had compromised necks into 8mm Mauser. I annealed the necks, lubed the cases, and used my Rock Crusher Press to turn 30-06 cases into 8 mm Mauser, and trim to length. When the 8mm Mauser necks were compromised, I turned them into .308 using the same process. To speed up trimming, I would use a small brake line cutter.
To anneal the necks, I would heat them to a dull glow with a propane torch and drop the cases into water.
I would tumble the cases before I reloaded to make sure I did not have any metal fragments in them from the trimmer and make them look better.
BTW, My Hen-Yang produced Mauser uses .318" Bullets. I made a molding die and used gas checks.
 

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If it were me, I'd full length resize the first time out of a new rifle. After that, if you are going to shoot it out of the same rifle, neck size would do. Oh, by the way, I would sure love to see a couple pictures of that rifle. :)

My $0.02
Grumpy
That鈥檚 exactly what I was thinking! Also add that 8mm Mauser works with pretty much the same powders as the .308 and .30-06.
 

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During the great waves of nice affordable surplus rifles, I bought a set of headspace gauges for most calibers. The 8mm rifles I bought had no problem closing on the GO gauges. None closed on the NO-GO or FIELD gauges. And without the bolt, they seemed to be a bit on the 'fat' side. Germany and many other nations used 8mm with coated steel cases during and after WWII. Always intended to, but never did strip the coating off of an unfired steel case to see if the difference was measurable.

Fire a few factory rounds and with a micrometer or calipers, measure about 1/8~1/4in past the extractor groove of the fired cases compared to an unfired one. Some chambers are so fat, you can actually see how much it swells. Then look down into the case with a good strong penlight. Look for signs of stretch or separation.

Not that I think or hope you need it, but the Mod.98 has a very well designed gas venting system in the event of a ruptured cartridge case. Something that was rather common back in the early days of high-pressure smokeless cartridges.

The WWII German service round was actually more powerful, both in chamber pressure and muzzle velocity with it's 154gr bullet than the US M2 30-06 ball round.

Prvi Partizan ammo and brass is first rate!
 

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Howdy all. I'm starting on a caliber I've never done before - 8mm Mauser. I've done a search, with no results, and I'm fairly new here, so please forgive me if I've missed something. What I'd like to know, is whether I should neck size only, or full length size this new (or soon to be used) brass (to be loaded with a Privi 200gr FMJ - all I could find on short notice:cool: - still looking though!)? I know I neck size my .303 brass for my SMLE due to it being rather rough on brass b/c of it's somewhat unsupported nature (but this's my first Mauser). This is new Privi brass, and will be used in a Yugo M48. Further load details TBD! I'll be using either WW or CCI primers though! ;)
This rifle is supposed to be unissued - and it looks the part. It has been fired though, but with literally NO wear and tear. I still need to do a detail strip for cleaning, too, still has a bit of cosmoline in it. Got a steep learning curve here, since I'd like to make some pew pews as soon as possible - WITHOUT cutting any corners! Been at this reloading/handloading thing too long for shortcuts!! Anyway, I look forward to your responses. Can't wait to get it to the range!!!! 馃槏馃槏(y)(y):cool::cool:

TIA,
Mike.
Reloading the 8 mm Mauser (7.92 x 57 mm) isn't particularly different from any other bottlenecked rifle cartridge such as a .30-06 or a .308. For a bolt action rifle, neck sizing should do just fine if the brass was shot from that particular rifle. If it is brand new unfired brass, neck sizing should also work. If it is "once fired" from someone else's gun, full length size it.
As others have already noted, there are two pressure standards for the 7.92 x 57. The US (SAAMI) spec is quite conservative. The European spec is pretty much even with US military .30-06.

Not sure whose brass you are using, but if it is PPU, it is really good stuff. 200 Grain bullets are on the high end of what you might want to use though. The M98 Yugo Mauser is a light rifle and loaded to military velocity which I believe was just a little shy of 2500 FPS, it will hurt to shoot. military bullets normally went up to about 196 Grain I believe. I always stuck with bullets in the 150 to 170 Grain range for this caliber when I reloaded for it.

Be careful about military surplus ammunition. A lot of it is corrosive. The best stuff I found was Portuguese which is not corrosive.

Do let us know more about the SMLE when you get the chance. Those guns can do pretty well if set up properly.

Have Fun!

- Ivan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Many thanks to all! 'Preciate the info very much. Looking back at my post, I neglected to mention that this initial batch of brass (200) is Privi., (also 200 Privi bullets due Sat.). My first batch of factory ammo (also 200 Privi. and due Sat.) is also Privi. :cool:
Grumpy: "I would sure love to see a couple pictures of that rifle ". Here ya go. 馃槏 Hope I did the pix right!
Musical instrument Reed instrument Shotgun Wind instrument Air gun

Wood Reed instrument Shotgun Musical instrument Trigger


I know the 200gr FMJ is a bit on the heavy side, but it's literally all I could find! I'm still lookin' though. The factory Privi. is the standard 198gr FMJ. I'll have a range report with the factory ammo as soon as I can get her to the range (I can hardly wait! - sore shoulder and all!!).

BTW, I've christened her 'Helga'. And if yer an Olde Phartt like me, you might catch the reference there.:cool: I've been lusting after one of these for many moons, and got lucky last weekend. And a private sale to boot!!

Y'all take care,
Mike.
 

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i agree with every one of these posts. and pretty much every idea that came up was posted in the next. i guess the only points i would like to underline are the 200's may or may not be too long for the twist. and don't use cases that had corrosive primers. the mercury will harden the brass. your rifle is a dandy. i have had many custom rifles built on 98's, and they are hard to improve.
 
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Mike, some of the information I've read talks about different bore sizes between production lots, very early lots and later lots. Do you know your bore size?
BTW, it looks great.

Grumpy
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mike, some of the information I've read talks about different bore sizes between production lots, very early lots and later lots. Do you know your bore size?
BTW, it looks great.

Grumpy
Thanks!
Haven't slugged it, so no. Have yet to dis-assemble her, except for removing the bolt. Hopefully this weekend:cool: The bore looks great, though. Do you know of a S/N list somewhere?

Y'all take care,
Mike
 

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he should be 323, the 318 were ww1 and before. never a bad idea to slug and cast the chamber however.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i agree with every one of these posts. and pretty much every idea that came up was posted in the next. i guess the only points i would like to underline are the 200's may or may not be too long for the twist. and don't use cases that had corrosive primers. the mercury will harden the brass. your rifle is a dandy. i have had many custom rifles built on 98's, and they are hard to improve.
'Preciate the reply! I'm also considering the Privi 175ge PSPBT. Any experience with that one?

Y'all take care,
Mike.
 

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Thanks!
Haven't slugged it, so no. Have yet to dis-assemble her, except for removing the bolt. Hopefully this weekend:cool: The bore looks great, though. Do you know of a S/N list somewhere?

Y'all take care,
Mike
I am not aware of any serial number list. There could be one somewhere, but it would be doubtful. @best.45 has some sound advice. Slug the bore and you will know for sure what bullets will work the best. Military rifles can be very generous when it comes to groove diameter and chamber dimensions. You have a keeper, best to feed it something it likes. :)

Grumpy
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am not aware of any serial number list. There could be one somewhere, but it would be doubtful. @best.45 has some sound advice. Slug the bore and you will know for sure what bullets will work the best. Military rifles can be very generous when it comes to groove diameter and chamber dimensions. You have a keeper, best to feed it something it likes. :)

Grumpy
Thanks again! I kinda figured that. :(
I agree with that, and am gonna do so.

Y'all take care,
Mike.
 
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