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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is my crimp goal for 9x19 reloads, the factory loads with ball measure .376 and I am getting .375 with 124g XTPs
 

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I have my crimp set for .376. Use this for plated and FMJHP’s. It has worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have my crimp set for .376. Use this for plated and FMJHP’s. It has worked for me.
Thanks APG as usual you are a fount of great information. I just finished 49 and have 1200 to go. My RCBS 1500 won't throw a consistent 4.2 grains of 231. It is usually .2 to .4 tenths over on every throw so I am trickling every charge. for this run
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I don't know what type of press set up you have, but with my Hornady
I set the crimp die for seating the bullet just enough to remove the
bell and then finish with the next step using a taper crimp die. Same
for when I reload .45 ACP. An extra step but gives excellent results.
 

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Just look at it this way: if your brass at the case mouth is 11/1000 (that's .011") that makes the total (of both sides of the circle) .022. Now add that to the bullet diameter of .355, and you get .377 for removing the bell from the case mouth - this coincides with what Tom Freeman said about just removing the bell. Most of us run within .001 of that, so .376 to .378 should do very nicely with a .355 diameter bullet. If you have a tight chamber, might want to use .375 or .376 - shouldn't need any smaller than that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just look at it this way: if your brass at the case mouth is 11/1000 (that's .011") that makes the total (of both sides of the circle) .022. Now add that to the bullet diameter of .355, and you get .377 for removing the bell from the case mouth - this coincides with what Tom Freeman said about just removing the bell. Most of us run within .001 of that, so .376 to .378 should do very nicely with a .355 diameter bullet. If you have a tight chamber, might want to use .375 or .376 - shouldn't need any smaller than that.
I am at .375 consistently with a Wilson match grade barrel so I should be about perfect. My Lee FCD is barely working the mouth. Thanks for your insight and info. You are always helpful. I may back off a scooch for my next run of Xtreme's 124g RN.
 

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I am at .375 consistently with a Wilson match grade barrel so I should be about perfect. My Lee FCD is barely working the mouth. Thanks for your insight and info. You are always helpful. I may back off a scooch for my next run of Xtreme's 124g RN.
Just bear in mind that all brass is not the same thickness, some are .010 and some are .012, most run pretty close to .011, so with your guns, you have find find a "happy medium" that run in all of them (hopefully). I use mixed headstamps, as I'm sure most of the guys here do, and even if they separate them for loading separately, I think most set their taper crimp die at one setting that works for all of their guns and call that even. You may need to back off .001, or .002, or none - that will depend on your guns and how those loads perform in them. If you have no issues in any of them, you're good-to-go, if one is finicky adjust to to run in that one and test in the rest of them afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just bear in mind that all brass is not the same thickness, some are .010 and some are .012, most run pretty close to .011, so with your guns, you have find find a "happy medium" that run in all of them (hopefully). I use mixed headstamps, as I'm sure most of the guys here do, and even if they separate them for loading separately, I think most set their taper crimp die at one setting that works for all of their guns and call that even. You may need to back off .001, or .002, or none - that will depend on your guns and how those loads perform in them. If you have no issues in any of them, you're good-to-go, if one is finicky adjust to to run in that one and test in the rest of them afterwards.
Thanks GP, I am still building the 2 pistols these will be run in. Top shelf barrels and slides but still stryker fired. Getting slide and frame parts is slow so I am getting the loading done while waiting on parts. Its been raining here everyday so behind on yardwork. I wondered, as with thicker or heavier brass having thicker sidewalls etc. I have some FBI training rounds here and measuring multiple rounds gives me .376 as the Taper Bell Remover measurement for them. This Lee FCD doesn't have the most precise adjustment so I got it as close as I could. This was all range brass bought in bulk from MidSouth so a wide variety of head stamps.
 

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Thanks GP, I am still building the 2 pistols these will be run in. Top shelf barrels and slides but still stryker fired. Getting slide and frame parts is slow so I am getting the loading done while waiting on parts. Its been raining here everyday so behind on yardwork. I wondered, as with thicker or heavier brass having thicker sidewalls etc. I have some FBI training rounds here and measuring multiple rounds gives me .376 as the Taper Bell Remover measurement for them. This Lee FCD doesn't have the most precise adjustment so I got it as close as I could. This was all range brass bought in bulk from MidSouth so a wide variety of head stamps.
You're on the right track, and you'll do fine at .376 or .377.
 

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You're on the right track, and you'll do fine at .376 or .377.
If you pulled out and measured all my reloads, there may be a couple that measure .375 but the majority will measure .376 and quite a few will be .377. But then even my expensive calipers say that they are +/- .001.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My Mitutoyo Caliper jumped a tooth or 2 and I am thinking of sending them in to be rebuilt. I got a new Lyman digital to replace it for now. My plus/minus may put me in .374 range which is too much. I had made up 3 dummy rounds and they measure .3755, .376, .3775 3 different head stamps none of which I know. My reloaded rounds run .3755 to .3765 avg of random samples. I don't have a ball end micrometer. Should I invest in one?? or am I being too OCD about all of this? I am just a hobby shooter, < 250 rounds a week.
 

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I vote too OCD.

I dont measure crimp. No reason to. Neck tension is what holds a bullet in place for the most part. Heavy kicking revolvers need a roll crimp, but that is a different animal.

I think I measured neck thickness on 9mm brass once. It was all over the charts so I quit. And I am not about to sort 9mm by headstamp.

The target will tell me if I have too much crimp. Or I can pull a bullet and see how much of a ring the crimp left behind.
 

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You of course are absolutely correct on neck tension being the important part of holding the bullet in place. But it does fit my OCD brain to sporadically check the crimp dimension while I’m reloading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You of course are absolutely correct on neck tension being the important part of holding the bullet in place. But it does fit my OCD brain to sporadically check the crimp dimension while I’m reloading.
Thanks Tom and APG this advise puts my mind at ease .....I am a bit OCD about the ammunition I load and the weapons I build. I was a structural engineering inspector for many years and my hobby satisfies a bit that aspect of my brain. and feeds my OCD LOL
 

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I "crimp" most jacketed or plated bullets to 375 or so. That's what I see on factory ammo, so it must be ok.
However since it was harder to get jacketed or plated recently, I ordered a couple thou Blue coated bullets.
These 135 gr pills have a nice truncated cone design that appeals to my eyeballs.
Just for fun, I tried varying the crimp from 373 to 376.
The tighter crimp seemed to shoot tighter. I made sure to leave about 1/16 inch exposed full diameter bearing surface above the case mouth so I have full diameter at the front and backside.
Similar to cast 45 SWC bullets.
 

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You of course are absolutely correct on neck tension being the important part of holding the bullet in place. But it does fit my OCD brain to sporadically check the crimp dimension while I’m reloading.
I've got a question. Once your crimp is set does it vary? If so by how much?

I know that once it's set on my Dillon's that I rarely if ever have to mess with it. I don't measure crimp, but I do run all my rounds through an EGW case gauge.

Even this is turning into so much mental masturbation. But it does catch the odd brass that cracked or a operator induced primer problem.

The rejection rate on my latest 1400 round run of 9mm was three rounds. Two had cracked brass, one had an upside down primer.

The rejection rate on the 800 rounds of 45 ACP was 0.
 

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BrokenGrunt - I load on a Dillon as well, and I've never (since my first Dillon RL450 in 1982) had to readjust the crimp die on any of my cartridges, be it roll-crimped 44 Spl. and 44 Mag, or taper-crimped 9mm, .38S, 10mm, 45ACP, or 50AE. I cannot even guess how many rounds I've load since 1982, let alone the 100's of thousands I loaded on single stage presses before that. Granted, I never loaded bottle-neck pistol rounds like 357 Sig, but everything in pistol (straight wall or tapered) from .25 ACP up to .50 AE (not including the newer 500 S&W). And most of those rounds, I fired myself with a few of my brothers on the range or in deer camp. Never had to readjust a crimp die once it was set correctly.
 
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