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I'm looking for a suggestion on a gunsmith to do convert a 940 S&W to 9X23. I contacted Dane Burns and he indicated he no longer does them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
9X23 conversion in a 940 S&W
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I too contacted him and he indicated that he no longer does them because he thinks it's not safe. I was under the impression that the 940 was a 9mm version of the 640 which is chambered for .357 Magnum, so I would think the 940 could handle the 9x23, but what do I know.
I have contacted a few shops that will do it. Victor Tibbets quoted me about $90 with an 8-12 week turnaround. Depending on your skill and desire it seems simple enough to just run a reamer to the proper depth in each chamber. A reamer from clymer is like $65, but you can rent one from http://www.reamerrentals.com/ for like $25.
Or you can buy the tools for me to do it to mine and I'll do yours for free
I have contacted a few shops that will do it. Victor Tibbets quoted me about $90 with an 8-12 week turnaround. Depending on your skill and desire it seems simple enough to just run a reamer to the proper depth in each chamber. A reamer from clymer is like $65, but you can rent one from http://www.reamerrentals.com/ for like $25.
Or you can buy the tools for me to do it to mine and I'll do yours for free
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1,684 Posts
I had Pinnacle do the conversion for my 940 to 38 super.
http://www.pinnacle-guns.com/
Give em an email and see if they do them and what they think.
I sent them the cylinder and it took barely any time.
http://www.pinnacle-guns.com/
Give em an email and see if they do them and what they think.
I sent them the cylinder and it took barely any time.
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120 Posts
I looked it to this quite a bit before doing this conversion, The case difference between the super and the 9mm is minimal and the approx. .004 difference between the 9x23 and the 9mm adds up to .002" less material between the chamber and the O.D. of the cylinder. Not enough to make it too weak.
About the safety issue, by compairing the pressure between the 9x23 in a closed chamber auto and a revolver. you'll find that since the bullet doesn't need to be pushed over 4 inches down a barrel (in a 1911 pistol) the same amount of preasure does not build up.
In a revolver, the bullet travels approx. 3/8 of on inch and then crosses the cylinder gap. This bleeds off quite abit of gas which greatly reduces the built up pressure in the case. Add this to the fact that you are pushing the bullet down a barrel that is only 2.5 inches long and this reduces the pressure (compared to that closed chambered 1911) even more. (check out the velocity difference between a 1911 and a 4" revo chambered for 9x23).
All this said, I always insist the user carrys factory ammo, and if they reload, to load lighter than factory loads for training with the gun.
The .38 super or 9x23 does give you quite the little power house pocket gun with the ability to use moonclips.
The conversion is $89.00 (need cylider only) plus $3.95 priority mail return shipping.
About the safety issue, by compairing the pressure between the 9x23 in a closed chamber auto and a revolver. you'll find that since the bullet doesn't need to be pushed over 4 inches down a barrel (in a 1911 pistol) the same amount of preasure does not build up.
In a revolver, the bullet travels approx. 3/8 of on inch and then crosses the cylinder gap. This bleeds off quite abit of gas which greatly reduces the built up pressure in the case. Add this to the fact that you are pushing the bullet down a barrel that is only 2.5 inches long and this reduces the pressure (compared to that closed chambered 1911) even more. (check out the velocity difference between a 1911 and a 4" revo chambered for 9x23).
All this said, I always insist the user carrys factory ammo, and if they reload, to load lighter than factory loads for training with the gun.
The .38 super or 9x23 does give you quite the little power house pocket gun with the ability to use moonclips.
The conversion is $89.00 (need cylider only) plus $3.95 priority mail return shipping.
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1,684 Posts
Another thought. If you already have the 940, and shoot 9mm in it, the cases swell enough to make it very dificult to extract.
When I fire mine in 38 Super, I don't have that problem, they slide right out. 9mm still swells enough to make it a pain.
When I fire mine in 38 Super, I don't have that problem, they slide right out. 9mm still swells enough to make it a pain.
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120 Posts
mikey357:
Yes, the Rugers can be converted also with no problems, and moonclips are only (10) for $15.
Mike: you are right about the cases sticking in 9mm. I used to carry 9mm Corbon, and if you ever tried to eject that stuff (at least out of my 940) I had to bump the ejector rod on the nearest bench to get the cases out.
Since converting it to .38 super I no longer have this problem, and I have'nt had one client come back and say they were having a problem ejecting them either.
All in all its a pretty slick set-up.
Yes, the Rugers can be converted also with no problems, and moonclips are only (10) for $15.
Mike: you are right about the cases sticking in 9mm. I used to carry 9mm Corbon, and if you ever tried to eject that stuff (at least out of my 940) I had to bump the ejector rod on the nearest bench to get the cases out.
Since converting it to .38 super I no longer have this problem, and I have'nt had one client come back and say they were having a problem ejecting them either.
All in all its a pretty slick set-up.
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