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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been reading a lot on the forums regarding the failure of vendors to properly polish their barrels in a cosmetic way. I'm assuming that everyone is speaking of the part of the barrel that shows when the weapon is at battery. I've linked a few pics to better illustrate the issue I believe some are concerned with and believe it would be in the best interest of everyone if those of you that know would join in a "how to" if you will to provide guidance to the others.

Personally I've worked in metallurgical Engineering for 25 years (instrumentation/teaching) and have written a number of specifications/manuals/thesis and have read everything I could find on this site. The info here on this subject is not really very clear cut and I believe those with gunsmith talent could write a simple how to in a heartbeat. Anyone or group feel up to the task? I'll be the test case and polish mine! Cheers.. Ron

Better pics... loading Sorry... not much better




 

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Polish the hood with fine sandpaper. Rub front to back (not shoe-shine) so that when the slide scratches the barrel again when it cycles the scratches will be in the same line as the sanding marks and hopefully less visible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What would you say... 260-380 followed by 600 using lateral motion along the length of the barrel and buffed with flitz or semi chrome? Ron

Polish the hood with fine sandpaper. Rub front to back (not shoe-shine) so that when the slide scratches the barrel again when it cycles the scratches will be in the same line as the sanding marks and hopefully less visible.
 

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Yeah, we used to polish the hoods on some of our display guns to a 1000 grit finish but it goes away very fast on a working gun. No matter how smooth we polished the inside of the slide and the lugs grit will get in and start scratching it.It does look nice though.
 

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Shouldn't be a too technical a fix. Just common sense - if you use 600-800, it oughta take things to a nice glow/shine with very little effort. You can also polish the first slide-recess lug up to get a little extra help, but be careful because if you go to far you can end up with insufficient lockup. I've also heard that it may be possible to help things by lowering the barrel bed, but I am thoroughly incompetent to advise you on that.

Best,
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Great advise

Great advise and it helps a lot to condense it for the regular folks. We often bead blasted our instrumentation parts to preserve a decent look. Would that work on this case? Ron

A nice matte look would be grand!
 

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Yes sir, it would. But what drail and I are getting at is that it will last for a very specific period: until the next time the gun is fired, or even manually cycled. When that happens, the slide will scratch the slide again.

Bead blasting would seem to be a gross waste of effort for something that could be done with just a square of sandpaper and one's thumb. Just take about a square inch of sanpaper, put on the hood, rub it forward and backward for about a minute, and you'd be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got-ya... No matter what I did, lets use me as an example, 250 rounds at the range would place me somewhere else entirely.. I can understand that... Thank you.. Ron

PS: After all.. I am speaking of shooters that will see a minimum of 250/mo

Yes sir, it would. But what drail and I are getting at is that it will last for a very specific period: until the next time the gun is fired, or even manually cycled. When that happens, the slide will scratch the slide again.

Bead blasting would seem to be a gross waste of effort for something that could be done with just a square of sandpaper and one's thumb. Just take about a square inch of sanpaper, put on the hood, rub it forward and backward for about a minute, and you'd be done.
 

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Welcome. And look at it this way - drail is talking about polishing up the hood for display. If you look at every 1911 you see being shot on your range, I bet you won't find one that doesn't have hood scratches. That's just the way things are set up. Is it possible to modify your gun to keep it from scratching the hood? Perhaps yes, perhaps no. Depends on whether you can do so and still keep some necessary minimums and mechanical relationships. In short, though, why worry about it on a working gun? I can't imagine that the most guru pistolsmith would infer inferior work quality just because a gun has hood scratches.

Best,
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Agreed... That's where the instrumentation/metallurgy trained people defer to the specific (gunsmith in this case) trained people.. I'm talking about nice (very) shooters here, not display pieces.. Thank you... Ron

OTE=BigJon;2418149]Welcome. And look at it this way - drail is talking about polishing up the hood for display. If you look at every 1911 you see being shot on your range, I bet you won't find one that doesn't have hood scratches. That's just the way things are set up. Is it possible to modify your gun to keep it from scratching the hood? Perhaps yes, perhaps no. Depends on whether you can do so and still keep some necessary minimums and mechanical relationships. In short, though, why worry about it on a working gun? I can't imagine that the most guru pistolsmith would infer inferior work quality just because a gun has hood scratches.

Best,
Jon[/QUOTE]
 

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'Personally I've worked in metallurgical Engineering for 25 years (instrumentation/teaching) and have written a number of specifications/manuals/thesis and have read everything I could find on this site.'

Yet you haven't figured out how to take a closeup, or that steel parts scratch each other. Hmmm. Just kidding.:biglaugh:
 

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Interesting, J.K. suggests tapering the chamber back from the first lug recess to the hood a bit just for this situation. Problem, the lettering on some barrels will get half way obliterated. The situation is compounded by the practice of barrel makers to reduce the barrel diameter back from the muzzle and when the barrel is linked down the muzzle can drop that extra bit and the chamber end is elevated and drags in the slide. Scratches. I've used /installed several Schuemann bushing barrels and they stay pretty nice, why, because he doesn't taper the barrel, because so many of his barrels may be fitted with a cone comp. and need to be threaded and so he leaves them straight and they work fine that way and since the muzzle isn't dropping they barely drag if at all. His barrels are also very nicely finished and I touch them up sometimes with 2000 polishing paper in line.

LOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I certainly hope so, as you are way out of context:biglaugh: Kidding as well... :biglaugh:
PS: The pay is a little different...

BTW... I can show you some moving (in contact parts) that have maintained a mirror finish for over 30 years... as well as photos that show the actual grains in the alloy... but that's not what we;re speaking of here now is it? Cheers.. Ron


'Personally I've worked in metallurgical Engineering for 25 years (instrumentation/teaching) and have written a number of specifications/manuals/thesis and have read everything I could find on this site.'

Yet you haven't figured out how to take a closeup, or that steel parts scratch each other. Hmmm. Just kidding.:biglaugh:
 

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And here's a picture of one.:biglaugh:



LOG
 

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Since the barrel isn't reduced behind the muzzle , but straight and has about .012" of clearance at link down it does pretty well. The barrel hood can still touch and will a little sometimes, but doesn't mark like many others.You can see just a little scuff at the hood end. My Bar-Sto is pretty good now also, but does have a reduced barrel. I tapered that one and removed all evidence that it is a Bar-Sto, but minimal scratches.:)

LOG
 
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