I have heard of these rails breaking and some running 1000's of round. The rail jobs I seen I think were fit to tight, to much stress on the rods, I don't beleive they need to been this tight or fuction relieable, I maintain machinery that had 1911 style slides, they'd run good for a while and then bind and jam, a real pain, the new machinery replaced the slides with a system simular to the Accu-rails and solved the jamming problem, they run trouble free now. I didn't like a few things about the way the accu-rails were installed on the ones I examined so I had a cutter ground for the right radius for the rods and installed them myself on my sloppy Clark longslide. I machined about .002 releive on the forward section of the slide rails so the slide come free when it is cycled out of battery, this will releive 1/2 the stress on the rods, when it goes back into battery it snugs up, if installed properly I think they are a great system. I have at least 10,000 rounds through mine. I would not install them on anything but poblemed frames...stainless steel, aluminum and grossly sloppy steel frames etc.........
Before I built a pistol on a aluminum frame I'd try losing 10 pounds first, but if you really need one Kimber makes the best I've seen, very thick and well machined, about .090 thick front strap, these were 5 frames checkered in 20 lpi and the checkering was the most perfect I've ever seen, not touched with a file either, cleaned up with a light dusting of xx-fine glass bead, the anodizing aslo was every tough. Richard's problemed pistol may of had the slide milled to low on the frame or to high, that's why I did mine myself, hope you find the info usefull.