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Ammo for Break In Period

1840 Views 20 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Wolfgang
I will be getting a Springfield TRP in the near future. I was wondering what some of your opinions would be of a good brand and grain of Ammo to get me through the break in period. I doesn't have to be the absolute cheapest stuff in the world, but I don't want to put a hole in my pocket book. Just looking for a few ideas. Thanks.


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Well, the original spec was 230gr FMJ Round Nose. So I'd think that any commercial ammo of that shape and weight would work well. I use Winchester White Box when I'm not using my reloads, or testing a specific round to see if it works or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Break In Period

As Far as the reference to "Break In Period?" goes. I thought that most 1911 manufacturers recommend a 500rd. break in period. While I don't own a 1911 quite yet, from a lot of things that I've read I thought most had this break in to go through.
 

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My Springer was 100% reliable from the first round. I really doubt you'll need any kind of a break-in period. I used a mix of WWB and brass and aluminum CCI Blazer all in 230 gr. FMJ and Remmington 230 gr JHP. It ate everything without a single problem.

I did, however, run about 700 rounds through it before taking it in for a trigger job. I wanted to make sure all the parts had reached an equlibrium point in their wear before having the trigger lightened to 4#.

I just picked up my new S&W 1911Sc this morning. After I stripped it, cleaned it and applied Slide Guide for lube, I took it out to the range. I only had the aluminum CCI Blazer 230 gr FMJ on hand so I put 100 rounds of that through it. Again, 100% reliable. I plan to put at least 500 to 700 mixed rounds through it just as I did with my Springer. Then I'll take it in for its trigger job.
 

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when i bought my trp 3 months ago i shot WWB through it for the first 200 huncred rounds cleaned it. Then i shot another 500 through it. Had two FTF at that time. I have over 3000 rounds through it no problems since. The FTF were from the initial 200 rounds the slide was gumming up so i had to clean since then it slides beautifully. Have fun when you get it's plenty reliable
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pretty excited

This is my first 1911, so I'm pretty anxious to get my hands on it. I'm gonna have to spend a lot of time at the range with it. I have pretty much shot a Glock for the past 6 years or so. Still love my Glock, just thought that I would expand my experiences with handguns.
 

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Here's the easy three step process on how you break in a new gun:
1: Clean it.
2: Lube it.
3: Shoot it.

Or send it to me with 4 lbs of N320 and 4000 230 grain bullets and primers and I'll take of it for you. I'll even provide the slide glide.:D
 

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Are you supposed to shoot FMJ through a new gun first? If so, how many rounds before you can start testing JHP for carry rounds?

Why are JHP rounds so much higher than FMJ? Looks like it would be less material, I'm guessing because it takes more work to make the HPs projectile?

Can someone explain to me what 'grain' is? From the little bit of ballistic data I've seen, it looks like the lower number grain has a higher velocity. Is grain just the weight of the projectile? Does the powder mix have any bearing on the 'grain' designator?

What is a 'hot load'? How is it 'hotter' than a regular load?

How is a +P different from a standard load? Is this considered a hot load?

Sorry for the newb questions.
 

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How many rounds are you supposed to shoot through it before the first cleaning?

I plan to disassemble, inspect, clean and lube mine when I get it before going to the range the first time, but how many rounds are you supposed to shoot through it straight before you clean it the first time (after firing)?
 

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Trade_Sniper said:
How many rounds are you supposed to shoot through it before the first cleaning?
I thoroughly clean, inspect and re-lube all my new pistols before a single round goes down range.

Manufacturers that tell you they use special "break in lube" are full of it. You'd be surprised the crap that can come out of a new pistol - including bits of metal filings/shavings, etc. If you really want to break in a new pistol with crap like that floating around inside, feel free to do so.
 

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Trade_Sniper said:
Are you supposed to shoot FMJ through a new gun first? If so, how many rounds before you can start testing JHP for carry rounds?
Shoot whatever you want to "break in" a gun. FMJ is simply cheaper and most people like to save money.

Why are JHP rounds so much higher than FMJ? Looks like it would be less material, I'm guessing because it takes more work to make the HPs projectile?
Higher manf. & Q/C costs, R&D costs, etc...


Can someone explain to me what 'grain' is? From the little bit of ballistic data I've seen, it looks like the lower number grain has a higher velocity. Is grain just the weight of the projectile? Does the powder mix have any bearing on the 'grain' designator?
A "grain" is a unit of measure equal to 1/7000th of a pound. Bullets of lower weights have higher velocity because it is easier to move a lighter weight object than a heavier one. However, a heavier projectile moving slower typically hits with more force. Grains are also used to measure the weight of a powder charge but are not listed on factory ammo.

What is a 'hot load'? How is it 'hotter' than a regular load?
A pressure that exceedes SAAMI (a standards organization) pressure specifications. Typically from an excesses of powder, or in some cases, too little.

How is a +P different from a standard load? Is this considered a hot load?
A higher pressure load producing higher velocity that comparable weighted non+P loads.
 

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newb questions, ammo and care

Trade_Sniper said:
Sorry for the newb questions.
Actually thanks for asking these questions for the rest of us newbies. My (first) SA PX9152L is in the mail and I never knew you should strip and clean a gun right out of the box. I'm also interested in the products folks here recommend for cleaning and oiling.

By the way I've found some of that S&B .45 ammo for $185/1000 is that a good price?
 

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don't know if I have heard the manufacture 'break in' lube thing (memory is not the same) BUT I have seen a bunch of guns with too much 'stuff'. think this over, mfg sends new gun with protectant... to protect the gun. need to clean this 'stuff' off, it's not lube, the gun has bearing surfaces that need lube and the barrel does NOT need obstruction. solidified protectant equals obstruction. always break down to major parts, clean, lube, reassemble. if you cannot disassemble and re-assemble, get an assist from someone who can. we ALL needed that sometime in our shooting life. I have seen barrels with rings where there was a bit of restriction where there wasn't a good cleaning before shooting. Colt used to have it in the booklet. Ever heard "read the directions first" ?? some did not. makes a mess of a new gun. (old days, I worked at gun shop, saw too much from novice and expert alike). cleaning is fun, you get to 'see' what's going on but don't forget to enjoy shooting, that's the neatest... shoot with a friend or make a new one at the range. someone watching you shoot, can 'see' what you can't. it also makes a new friend and you cannot have too many. enjoy, al
 

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I'm not an expert on this stuff, so keep that in mind. However, regarding break-in of a pistol, I've heard that FMJ (also known as "ball") ammo is best to start off with, especially for a 1911. Why especially for a 1911? Because if a 1911 can't feed ball ammo, the type for which it was originally designed, the gun (or the mag) has a problem. Also, FMJ (as opposed to lead) bullets supposedly help smooth out the rough edges of the barrel's rifling left from the cutting process. Maybe so. I leave that debate to other, more knowledgable folks.

With this advice in mind, I bought several different brands of 230 grain FMJ in the 50-round boxes. I wanted to break-in the barrel and see how the different brands performed. Good brands to try are Remington UMC, Speer, CCI Blazer, Winchester White Box, Federal, and Magtech. (I haven't tried the others so I can't comment on them.) Magtech works the best for me, so that's what I've finally stuck with. Your experience may be different.

Using ball ammo first allows you to set a baseline for when you start using HPs. If your gun has fired 200 rounds of ball ammo flawlessly and then gags on its first HP, the problem is probably the choice of ammo, not the gun or the mag.

As for HP rounds, I've had no problems with Rem. Golden Saber, Speer Gold Dots, Federal Hydro-Shock, and Federal EFMJ. At one time, I thought Rem. Golden Sabers were the best choice, but I've since read reviews that have me thinking Speer Gold Dots may be better. Search the ammo section for more info.
 

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trane said:
Actually thanks for asking these questions for the rest of us newbies. My (first) SA PX9152L is in the mail and I never knew you should strip and clean a gun right out of the box. I'm also interested in the products folks here recommend for cleaning and oiling.
No problem. I didn't know it myself until I started asking questions on here. I did see that piece of info in another post though. This is how we learn, search, read and if you don't find what you're looking for, ask.

I want to make sure I'm doing it right, using the right stuff, etc., to make sure I don't develop bad habits that have to be broken and relearned. I also don't want to damage anything and possibly injure myself or someone else in the process.

By the way I've found some of that S&B .45 ammo for $185/1000 is that a good price?
Being a newb, I'm not familiar with that brand, but I'm sure someone else here is. Today, I saw $19/100 for Winchester White Box 230gr FMJ at wally world, so that's within $5 per 1000. So its definitely not a bad price.

I can't wait to start reloading...
 

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I have shot about 700 rounds of S&B through my TRP with no problems. I think your price sounds abou right.
 

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I wouldn't call this breaking in but more of a reliability test to give the manufacturer a fair shot. I run one or two factory mags of WWB 230g through the gun looking for problems. That is all the breaking in there is going to be. For then on it is nothing but my handloads. In 48 years of shooting only two pistols out of several dozens ever gave me a problem out of the box. That was a Les Baer PII and a Springfield GI Micro. Both went back to the manufacturer. It is their problem to make a new gun run, and they did.
 

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I know Glock says to let the gun break in w/ their special grease they put on the gun. But they are the only manufacturer I have heard of that says that. Even then, while I don't take the grease off, I add oil on the rails of a new Glock before I use it the first time.

I ALWAYS strip, clean and reoil any new gun before I shoot it the first time.
 
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