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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There has been some talk of triggers and I have/have not followed the conversation well. I am using a stainless P14-45 for IPSC. I do not use the gun for anything else. I would like the best trigger and what I think you refer to as trigger weight (4.5 or 6 or whatever). It seems some recommend changing more than just the trigger. Which parts do you recommend and at about what cost should it be? In particular I want the best trigger pull. My local gunsmith seems pretty good but should I go a step further and send it to someone who does lots of trigger jobs for IPSC type people? I think my local gunsmith might spend 10 minutes or so on it and it seems someone said it took them hours to get a good trigger pull. I am one of those females who would not even want to begin tackling the job herself (we lack the confidence you males have---sterotyping, of course).
 

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A trigger job of 4-4.5lbs usually costs around $75-$85. If you want a lighter trigger pull it usually costs more. That's without any new parts. For a Para-Ordnance pistol, most smiths like to swap out the hammer, sear and probably the trigger when doing a trigger job. The cost of replacing these parts is in addition to the trigger job. That adds about another $85 to the work. If you ship your pistol off, that's another $30 or so. So your looking at around $200 if you ship it out although prices may vary. You should ask other people in your club who used your local smith for their trigger jobs if they were satisfied with the work. If you are uncomfortable with using your local smith, I would use any of the smiths listed with the American Pistolsmith Guild. You can find a list at http://www.americanpistol.com (although the site seems to be down at the moment). There are quite a few members in Texas. As far as which particular parts you might use, I tend to lean towards names I recognize. Ed Brown parts mostly. However, most smith's seem to have their own preferences. I would probably want a stainless hammer for a stainless pistol and a tool steel sear, not an MIM part. As for a trigger, there are also many choices. My Dad prefers the STI composite trigger for his Para-Ordnance.


I have the Gun Craft long aluminum trigger in my P16.



Hope this helps. If you want more information, you might want to try this question in the Gunsmith forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the great pictures of the triggers. Does the long trigger have to recess more to make the gun fire?
 

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No. The long trigger is about the same length as the stock plastic trigger on a Para. The short trigger is usually used by people with smaller hands/shorter fingers.
 

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Hello, I may be the one you were refering to about taking hours to do a trigger job. The gentleman that taught me said it takes five hours to do a trigger job the correct way and I've found this to be true. As he said there is no shortcuts in doing a good trigger job. When I do a trigger job on a factory gun I replace most if not all the trigger group parts. The racegun that I'm shooting in the video on my web site has a trigger pull of 1.5 lbs. however this would be to light for a limited class gun. I would recommend 2.5 lbs on a limited class gun. Also in a gun used for competition only I recommend removing the series 80 parts.
Regards,Bob Hunter. www.huntercustoms.com
 
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