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Any tips on keeping the seating die clean?

1830 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Maj Tom
Being basically of lube. I have been doing well for some yrs & yes it has been a chore, but am up against even more as I shoot so much due to fast use of reloads as I shoot at least three times of every week of he year.

Second question is who amongst the people that sell dies makes the seating adjustment of hex head? The knurled one soon become a chore & use of pliers--I know that sounds & is terrible. Once I get this one cleaned up I will groove the head for the use of a braod slot screwdriver & that should help. Still accumilation of lube does make it tougher all the time.

I have a hunch I will have to buy another set of dies from my 45ACP & just wish I could buy 2 or 4 of the seating die only. That would make it easier to remove one that feels like it is developing lube build up & put in a clean or new one while I spend the time to clean the lube on said one in temporary problem.

I do have a compressor so thinking of what I can use to loosen up the caked lube & then hit the die with the compressor. Might use some "Dunk-It" for my first try. Like soak it for around an hour & then hit all parts with the compressor & final clean-up with clean cloths & normal oils for easing up the threaded parts.

Any suggestions to the above would be greatly appreciated.
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gummy bears (to keep clean)

Suggest Dillon seat die for its easy disassembly for cleaning; no changes when reassembled.

Spray your gummed-up die(s) with a light shot of Hornady One-Shot spray lube.....
 

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My seating die would get a ring of gunk after loading 500 rounds, and I would have to take it apart and clean it. After I adjusted the powder/bell die to open up the bell a little more, the problem went away. I think the lube was being scraped off the bullet as it was being squeezed into the tight bell of the case. Of course I still inspect/clean the dies as needed.
 

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Done with lubed lead - use coated no mus no fus and no smoke. If you like lubed buy Dillon - drop out dies.

Grant
 

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I shoot a bunch of hardcast lead so I do understand your complant but there is not a whole lot you can do. One thing I can suggest has already been suggested by Primersinmyshoe and that is bell your case a bit more. The only other thing I do is clean my dies a bit more often. I clean mine with Break Free CLP. Every 200-300 rounds I put a bit of breakfree in a small dish and use q-tips and just run them up into the dies and clean out most of the gunk. They stay cleaner longer that way and I have to take them out and take them apart less often. A few seconds of maintainance between loading sessions goes a long way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My thanks to all of you & wll try the bit of bell die first, but also the idea of cleaning more often with Break-Free as well. If none seem to be the answer then I guess I will order a set of 45ACP dies from Dillon.

Still if more wish to offer some tips believe me I will take note of those as well. in fact I might come back & say which worked the best though cleaning more often should be a must no matter what.
 

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primersinmyshoe said:
My seating die would get a ring of gunk after loading 500 rounds, and I would have to take it apart and clean it. After I adjusted the powder/bell die to open up the bell a little more, the problem went away. I think the lube was being scraped off the bullet as it was being squeezed into the tight bell of the case. Of course I still inspect/clean the dies as needed.
+1 on the increase in bell (I use a Lyman M die). I use a Redding Comp seating die and I have popped it apart once for a re-lube after many K rounds....
 

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I load a lot of cast bullets for the .45 auto and have no problem with lube gunking up the seating die.

I do have a healthy bell on the case mouth, but since I cast my own there's no lube on the bullets except in the lube grooves. I know lots of commercial cast bullets are covered with lube, so that makes cleaning the die mandatory.

I believe you should be able to order the Dillon die separately (worth checking into).
 

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+ 1 on the Dillon dies. Pop out, clean, pop back in. Open up the bell a little and there will be less lube smeared around. I clean the seating die every 1000 rounds. Most of the time it really doesn't need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
,

Thanks guys for the suggestions & still used a bit of mine. I soaked the two piece die in "Dunk It" for 2 hrs. True longer Cylinder & Slide shop, suggest for the complete gun along with the use of a compressor. All the lube removed, still searched around with a swab in case there was some.

Also opened up the belling a bit. This seating die was all gummed up is an originally, old Lyman steel while the Carbide die is a Lee though stupidly sold the rest of the Lee to someone---we do make these error, or at least I do. So have an RCBS seating die.

Still think I will phone Murray Charlton in B.C., Cdn for possibly the seating die & if not sold in pieces I will just order in a complete three piece set.

If any are questionable about "Dunk It" you might do the same as I did. You only need a small plastic container & about a cup plus to cover the two piece die. Believe me it does a fantastic job especially when you put the compressor to work. Also Dunk It leave a lube on the gun or the die.

ALSO I will make sure I remove the seating die & clean it more often, for I was only doing it when I begin to notice to much lube inside & had to raise the seating position (probably around 6 to 8 thou later on)------obviously way to much was being rubbed off the lube ring of cast bullets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Obviously you chaps have answered my question & I am going to go over your answers again, to possibly make a small change or two for I shoot far more with 45ACP then I do 38Spl, 9X19 or .22 rim fire.

Man you ask an honest question & those on this board come back with the best of answers. So glad the reloading section was returned.
 

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Smythe, that is the single most wonderful thing about collective knowledge. I ,as well as most of us here are always learning something new everytime we log on.. For instance, I reread this post again and saw where robertbank mention he used toothpicks. I thought that was an absolutly brilliant idea! One that I will utitlize in the future.
 

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i have the gunking problem too. I use RCBS dies. About every 200 rds I pull out the seater punch, use a cleaning rod with brass wool soaked in WD-40 and scrap the shiz out of the die. Then I put one of the rounds I just loaded back in the shell holder and run the ram up, then screw the top punch back in until its seated against the bullet and tight down the jamb nut. I can do this all in about a minute and a half.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am sort of an old fart on some motorcycle boards. Being 75+yrs of age & riding yearly since '46 that means 59 yrs of riding which also includes some 42 yrs of tough basically dirt comp, but 4 or 5 yrs of road racing as well.

Also in my garage is a '97 Yamaha YZF 600r, '00 Honda 929, & '03 Honda 954 which means three fast trotting sportbikes. So like this board & what redolki pointed out a beginner someone with 5 yrs or more can throw a question & some in their 20s, 40s, 50s or closer to myself will come up with some sensible information or answer.

After all that is the reason there are boards on f/arms, motorcycles & you name it.
 

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A good cleaner is a Q-tip cut in half and chucked in a drill and then go to town on the die. One does not have to disassemble the die....A little solvent will assist as required..... Change Q-tips as required..... If really tough an old bore brush can be used as well.....
 
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