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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
WWII rebuilt 1911s? I have one that had it's slide hardened at the front, but has all of it's non-A1 parts intact (from what this neophyte can tell). I contacted a couple of restoration shops and have been told two different things regarding coloration of the slide after restoration. One said it would be obvious and suggested that it stay as-is, the other said the Carbonia bluing will not show the difference in metal harndness.

This particular piece is an excellent candidate with no pitting, gouges, dings, etc. I just want to know if someone else has crossed this bridge before because I don't want to drop the cash on restoring this gun if it can't turn out "right".


Saleen
 

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Saleen,

If I'm not mistaken, military rebuilds in original condition the way you are describing yours, are starting to go up in price. I'd leave it alone.
 

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If it's an authentic arsenal-rebuilt 1911, better do as M1991A1 says. Rebluing it will destroy its value. In addition, if the front end is hardened (i.e. it shows discoloration in front) then it's a WW2-vintage slide, and as such it's pointless to "restore" it anyway.
 

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To rephrase yor question: you want to know if the difference in the heat treated metals will blue differently, right? The only positive way to know is to do the bluing and see what happens. I had a 1911 .45 with some small cracks in the side of the frame just forward of the slide stop hole. The cracks were all cut out and the resulting crater welded. The weld was ground smooth and then polished with the rest of the frame and blued. The bluing over the weld turned out no different than on the rest of the slide. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
dsk,

The front end is hardened, but I was under the impression that it is the original that was heat treated during rebuild. The right side of the slide reads "MODEL OF 1911.U.S. ARMY" just like originals. Also, I would have figured a WWII replacement slide would have said 1911A1 on it if anything at all.

I'll try and attach this picture which also shows the discoloration line.

Oh, and there are no S/Ns under the FPS.


Saleen
 

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I'm moving this to the USGI forum, where hopefully some of the other collectors will chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No numbers under the FPS. I am at work right now and can't lay hands on the gun, but I'll try to answer the other questions tomarrow.

How do I tell if the slide has "A1" cuts as you describe? Is it easy to tell? I mean, if I put it next to an original 1934 1911A1 that I have, will I be able to readily see a difference?


Saleen
 

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Yes, the disconnector cut will look the same if Scott is correct (a crescent-shaped cutout). Original WW1-era slides had a disconnector cut that looked more like a square cut with a round hole in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
No "K" on the back of the slide. It appears to have an identical disconnector cut-out as my Pop's original 1934 NM. It does have an "N" on the underside on the left near the FPS, and a "C" on the bottom of the machined out channel (left side withthe slide upside down with the muzzle end away from you. There are two more stamps just above the "N" as the left channel starts. I can't make them both out, but one looks like it might be a "B"

If the patent dates on the slide mean anything, the latest one is Aug. 19. 1913

So, is the concensus that this is a 1937 slide and not original to the gun? It was an Anniston Arsenal "AA"? rebuild that was shipped on 1-4-67 from Anniston on an NRA voucher.


Saleen
 

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Hi Saleen,
The marking of AA is Augusta Arsenal

Anniston Army Depot used AN or ANAD

I didnt see anything in the posts that could lead to the conclusion

"rebuild that was shipped on 1-4-67 from Anniston on an NRA voucher."

Regards,
Ty
 

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'NRA voucher', maybe this was the early version of the CMP (or DCM) program?

What I've heard is that refinishing ("restoring") detracts from whatever value it has as an historical military firearm, even if it makes it look better.

(I have a 1911 from late 1918, arsenal re-worked by AA, parkerized, with plastic grips.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ty,

I have the original shipping box and papers showing the NRA Voucher number, S/N of the pistol, and all sorts of other information about warranty, repair, etc. One copy was affixed to the top cover of the box on the outside, the other copies were placed in the box under the wax paper covering the pistol. I honestly think this thing just sat in that box for a little over 30 years, possibly forgotten.

I think I'll take everyone's advise and just leave it as is. With the papers, etc. that is probably the best thing to do.

Below is a photo of the paperwork on the box.


Saleen
 

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Agreed, does make a nice collectible.

Why the "Saleen" name, you a stang buff too? I owned a couple Saleens and drove one in the pro series during the IMSA hay days.

Cheers,
Ty
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, my family got it bad......

Dad is the original owner of 87-289 (I think that's the number, I haven't seen it in 4 years). It is an 87 convertible black/gray that has been juiced up with a B&B motor, Paxton S/C, and a host of other mods that were state of the art in 1988 when he did it. The original engine, etc. are all intact. The car has about 16000 on the clock and is pretty much immaculate.

He is also the original owner of 1989 SSC #86 which is completely untouched. This one has about 14000 on the odometer if memory serves, and hasn't seen the sunlight in at least 4 years.

I own 1991 Saleen # 91-65 which is the one and only white coupe made that year. It is also the second to last coupe made (someone ordered the final one in 1993). Mine is done up to look like an SSC and has around 26K on the odometer. It too has been in storage for quite some time. In fact, since returning from the 1994 30th anniversary show in Charlotte, it hasn't seen much use at all. I am planning to change that next spring. I also need to attend to the other two storage queens.


Saleen
 

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I just got rid of 1989-665 it was grey/grey convert :)

Here is the Cobra R/Saleen I drove in the Pikes Peak Fest of Road Racing. Its the yellow #6. Was hitting 170 MPH going into NASCAR turn 3 when a NSX went off the wall and vanished into a million little red pieces. Ops,,,,wrong forum, sorry guys I will stop the car talk :D





Cheers,
Ty
 
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