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Armor Tuff Finish

2843 Views 19 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  nwgunman
I am currently considering getting a Wilson Armor Tuff finish on my Springfield. I love Wilson firearms, but unless they start paying paratroopers by the hour, I don't think I'll be buying one in the near future. So I guess I'll have to do with a lookalike. I'm sure the finish is as superb as the rest of their products. I was also considering some other custom work (dehorning, trigger job, etc.) Any opinion's or advice on the subject?
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Start adding up how much the custom detail work is gonna cost you, and you will find yourself in Wilson Combat Country. Shoot your gun and save up the bucks for a Wilson. I would recommend hard chrome or black parkerizing if you must change the finish. I would also do all my desired/hoped for custom work on the SA before any refinish job.
For $34 bucks you can try out the Armor-tuff finnish first hand. Buy a Wilson Armor-tuff Mag. from Brownells.
What about do it yourself parkerizing kits? any opinions on those?
can someone transfer this to gunsmithing?
Request for forum transfer is granted.
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On my website I show how (and discuss) both the parerizing and Baking Lacquer finishes. I used both finishes on the two project guns I have outlined on the website. Either of these finishes can be applied at home very easily. Check out the details if you are interested.

Hope that helps.
You might try to do a search on the Armor Tuff question. Seems like it's one of the few gripes guys have with their Wilson guns.
You might try black T. It isn't perfect, but it usually gets a more favorable response than Armor tough.
In my view, Armor-Tuff -- especially on the recent production guns -- really isn't THAT bad, at least as far as the polymers go. Let's face it: they do an excellent job of protecting against corrosion, but all of them leave something to be desired in the long-term aesthetics department.

I wasn't thrilled to see the edges wearing through on my '98 vintage Wilson, but I have to admit that it is still doing an admirable job of protecting the metal. I might opt for a parkerized finish on my next Wilson, but if not, I would gladly take another AT gun.


BTW, I just left Division earlier in the year (w/>10 years at Bragg), and I can confirm that they are definitely NOT paying troopers by the hour!
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I almost forgot ... keep your feet and knees together bud!!

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Always, StormMaster, always.

So, are most parkerizing kits about the same quality? If not, which ones would you guys recomend. I'm thinking of doing it all in OD or at least the frame


Pvt Ryan,

Awesome site. I'll definitely using it as a reference for my project. Goes without saying, but awesome pistols too.
I just got a Wilson CQB and I must say that it is the best "off the rack" gun that I have ever owned, at least equal or better in terms of accuracy and finish to several "full custom" guns that I have owned. Worth the $? In my opinion yes, especially if you consider that I did not have to wait a year plus for it.
As far as the Armor Tuff finish is concerned, mine has held up well so far, which includes a month of IDPA practice/matiches and at least 500 presentations form a Ky-Tac Kydex holster. Some bare metal showing through at the corners at the end of the slide. I've read some posts that after a certain threshold is reached, wear accelerates dramatically, so I am keeping an eye on it. So far I am happy with it.
Bill Go
LtCol USMC (Ret)

you can get some GREAT INFO THERE and I got an email from [email protected] after asking about finishes and durability. I will paste up page ONE below (its a total of 9 pages so write them for the rest - I hope this helps!

Professional Firearm Finishes
Exclusive Product of John Norrell Arms, Inc./Norrell Manufacturing
13529 Saddle Hill Dr.
Little Rock, AR 72212
Fax 501-225-7864 / E-Mail > [email protected]
Revised Copy 6/1/01
Moly ResinÔ is a product trademark of John Norrell Arms, Inc. d/b/a Norrell Manufacturing. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior lubricant) with an exclusive blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing. Our additives create a phenolic coating that is the hardest, most durable, and the most chemically/heat resistant thermally cured finish available on the market today. Our special low temperature catalyst will cause the Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils, paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial solvents. The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts during the curing process. We select our phenolic base stocks from hundreds offered by Dow Corning and 3M. The combination of the most suitable base stock, our additives, and molybdenum creates a truly unique coating that represents state-of-the-art technology. No other thermally cured firearm finish available on the market today has the same characteristics and properties that Moly ResinÔ offers the professional gunsmith or home hobbyist. Moly ResinÔ is a coating developed for ordnance usage on equipment and weapons, providing excellent corrosion protection, abrasion resistance and lubricity to meet automatic weapon dry firing requirements after 60 days seawater immersion. Available ready to apply. No thinning or dilution is needed.

Moly ResinÔ will adhere to all metals including the following: aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, sandblasted and glass beaded metal, cast iron and aluminum, titanium, copper, silver solder, blued or parkerized finish, anodized, nickel and chrome plate, and many plastics, etc. Note: nickel and chrome plated surfaces should be sand blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin. For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly sandblasted surfaces. Moly ResinÔ is available in the following standard colors but they may be mixed together to create an unlimited variety of shades.

Colors Currently Available:
GRAYISH-BLACK - Dark gray-black coloration with an appearance between flat and semi-gloss. This duplicates the appearance of the original Colt AR-15/M-16 finish. This is the same product that is purchased from us by the U.S. Military to refinish Colt M-16's. This is our original formula that has the added benefit of turning slightly green if you raise curing temperatures above 300f. This creates a greenish parkerized appearance to match some older military finishes. If in doubt about the accuracy of your oven temperature, keep it at about 275f. May be mixed with our black, white, green, etc. to obtain shade changes.

FLAT BLACK - Black in coloration with a non-reflective dull matte appearance. Slightly darker shade compared to the above Grayish-Black Moly ResinÔ. Norrell Manufacturing supplies this Mil-Spec finish to the sub-contractors that manufacture USSOCOM (U.S. Special Operations Command) products for H&K and the U.S. Military such as the sound suppressor for the H&K Mark 23 SOCOM .45 Cal. pistol used by the Navy Seals and Special Forces.

SEMI-GLOSS BLACK - Black in coloration with a slight gloss that will duplicate the original H&K (Heckler & Koch) type finish. Good match to H&K, UZI, and other similar semi-gloss black gun coatings.

FLAT GRAY - Matches the U.S. Military gray parkerizing. May be mixed with our Green Drab to obtain a greenish parkerized appearance or our blacks for a darker gray shade. May be darkened by the addition of Black Moly.

GREEN (European Olive Drab). Olive (flat) drab green that has been tinted to resemble European O.D. colors of FNC, HK, etc. Also used by a large U.S. handgun manufacturer for their .45 cal. pistols. May be darkened or lightened by the addition of black or gray Moly Resin.
STAINLESS STEEL - Stainless steel powdered metal mixed with clear phenolic Moly Resin. Gives the appearance of brushed stainless steel when applied over any type of metal.

"Watch your 6!"
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Hey guys, how about some "real" feedback here. Like, who has actually has Wilson do an "aftermarket" application of Amor-Tuff to their gun? And how did it work out? I'm really interested because I've just had a Springfield re-finished with Bearcoat, and I have more re-finish jobs ahead. I had some initial function problems with the Bearcoat. After some work, including removing (!) the coating from certain critical areas (inside the plunger tube, from the slide stop, at the breech face, etc) the gun again runs great. It's too soon to tell about the durability, but I let you guys know in say a couple of months. Anyway, what's up with Amor-Tuff? Stay safe.
I don't like Armor-Scuff. Chips, makes the guns look cheap, if you ask me. Much prefer a beautifully blued pistol (looks better with wear) than shake-and-bake finishes. I also like hard chrome. Since I don't go swimming with my gun on my hip, I've never experienced rust or other problems with blued guns.
OKC .45 ACP: Well, yeah, "swimming" is exactly the thing here...as in "swimming" in sweat. Nice to know that you don't perspire (a real "cool hand Luke" I guess) but I'm a sweating fool. There's nothing like a week or so of clammy IWB carry to test the finish on (and inside!) your pistol. Thus the query about Amor-Tuff. Stay safe.
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