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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Do yall hate me yet? Lesson #1 I learned from this, don't try a complete dis/as of a 1911 without someone else to help you along around.

ok anyways my pistol is in a million pieces so I need help.

trying to follow this link http://www.guerrillagunsmith.com/1911detailed.htm for re-assembly.

I get it totally together or so it seems and can't pull the hammer back to allow the safety to be installed. I assume I'm putting one of the springs on the wrong side of something and I can't figure this out, tried it multiple ways so, Sear spring, which way is it supposed to be on the sear when installed? Pretty sure I'm putting it in the wrong place in relation to the sear. Oh also the trigger is frozen when its put together.
Thanks guys.
 

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OK, deep cleansing breath, slow down and don't panic.

Take everything apart down to the pins and start over.

Couple of things. Make sure the trigger is right side up when you put it back in the frame. The overtravel screw goes on the bottom. If you don't have an screw in the face of your trigger then go by the trigger bow. The back of the bow is slanted. You want the angle to go forward, so when the trigger is all the way forward the back of the bow is even with the interior of the frame.

Now about the sear spring. It has three legs. Two forward and one back. The one bent backwards should have more tension then the two forward ones. The backwards one tensions the grip safety. Of the forward ones the left rests on the sear and the center rides on the back of the disconnector.

What I do is I'll put the sear spring in place, making sure the legs catch the sear and disconnector properly. Then slide the mainspring housing part way on. This hold the sear spring in place. Cock the hammer, install the grip safety and thumb safety. Uncock the hammer and slide the mainspring housing all the way up and install the pin.
 

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This picture from the site you mentioned is what the sear spring should look like.


Left leg on the sear, middle leg on the disconnector, right leg pushing the GS out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
OK, deep cleansing breath, slow down and don't panic.

Take everything apart down to the pins and start over.

Couple of things. Make sure the trigger is right side up when you put it back in the frame. The overtravel screw goes on the bottom. If you don't have an screw in the face of your trigger then go by the trigger bow. The back of the bow is slanted. You want the angle to go forward, so when the trigger is all the way forward the back of the bow is even with the interior of the frame.

Now about the sear spring. It has three legs. Two forward and one back. The one bent backwards should have more tension then the two forward ones. The backwards one tensions the grip safety. Of the forward ones the left rests on the sear and the center rides on the back of the disconnector.

What I do is I'll put the sear spring in place, making sure the legs catch the sear and disconnector properly. Then slide the mainspring housing part way on. This hold the sear spring in place. Cock the hammer, install the grip safety and thumb safety. Uncock the hammer and slide the mainspring housing all the way up and install the pin.
ok did that and it still only half cocks, I guess I should state I have no way of knowing if the legs catch the sear and disconnector properly. and on the sear spring just to make sure, the tall one is on the left when looking at the pistol from behind correct? nvm thats my lining it up wrong. when I half cock the hammer, the left most spring is slipping past something and making a distinct "clink" noise
 

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Yes, the picture is from behind. Be sure that the left/long leg is pressing down on top of the sear when you slide the mainspring housing back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This picture from the site you mentioned is what the sear spring should look like.


Left leg on the sear, middle leg on the disconnector, right leg pushing the GS out.
ok cool left leg is on the bottom step touching the rise for the next step on the sear. middle midway up the disconnector surface that is exposed.

before pulling hammer, sear is above the disconnector

when I pull it to half cock sear drops, and is relatively flush with disconnector,and makes a noise a distinct click.

when pulling the rest of the way back the sear rises and then drops back to just slightly higher than the disconnector splitting the difference between the two previous positions.
 

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Start over. Make sure the hammer can be pulled all of the way back before you slide in the main spring housing. Sometimes you need to jiggle the trigger a couple of times. But then keep it in the down position before putting in the sear spring and the MSH.

Actually though it is possible to install the MSH with the hammer in the fully cocked position. I have done it when I didn't know any better. :)

Don't get frustrated..you'll get it. It has probably happened to all of us. I know the feeling.

Make sure you don't have the disconnecter in backwards. And as mentioned the left spring leaf sits on the lower left corner of the disconnecter. And of course make sure the sear spring is engaged in the slot in the frame.

I posted this before the last post..maybe this info is useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Start over. Make sure the hammer can be pulled all of the way back before you slide in the main spring housing. Sometimes you need to jiggle the trigger a couple of times. But then keep it in the down position before putting in the sear spring and the MSH.

Actually though it is possible to install the MSH with the hammer in the fully cocked position. I have done it when I didn't know any better. :)

Don't get frustrated..you'll get it. It has probably happened to all of us. I know the feeling.

Make sure you don't have the disconnecter in backwards. And as mentioned the left spring leaf sits on the lower left corner of the disconnecter. And of course make sure the sear spring is engaged in the slot in the frame.

I posted this before the last post..maybe this info is useless.
You do mean by down as in have the trigger depressed correct? well doing that or not doing it, if the main spring housing isn't pinned in and allowed to move 1/4" up and down, the pistol works, the moment its pinned, it stops working. can't get past half cock. I'm confused again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I want to thank everyone for their help.

turns out from watching an animation the middle leaf was bent back too far... looks like a home gunsmithing stupidty.

got it back dis/as twice and it works... now the guns all loose, I think thats a bad thing if I had it my way I'd only complete strip it down once a year, think I just did it 80+ times, not a new gun anymore... before I got it had been ripped down once (to botch that) and replace the trigger/magazine disconnect. and had 300 rounds down the pipe.

Its very broken in now :bawling:
 
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