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Baron cqb break in--- oil, oil, oil

6775 Views 66 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  Grandpas50AE
Okay, after slobbering all over the Baron I decided to shoot her.

Oiled her as I normally do during break in. Locked her back, added oil to frame rails and let gravity work. First 75 rounds-no prob. Then the slide slowed greatly. Not good. Bagged her up and took her home. Gave her a good cleaning due to slide slow down.

Next trip, same thing, except this time she started locking past slide stop notch. Hmmmm-this is not good, at all. Instead of posting on the forum, for once in my life I decided to keep it low key until I had all the answers.

Next step-email to Anthony. Reply-Keep shooting her. I'm talking to Steve while ordering SG and describe my issues and oiling regimen. He says, field strip her before shooting and add oil to barrel, bushing, lugs, ejector channel, disco rail and frame rails. He says, "If the first shot does not splatter oil on your safety glasses, you didn't apply enough."

Okay, this guy has forgotten more about the 1911 than I, CA, BDM, G50 et al know, so I SLOP HER DOWN. My glasses still are oily. But, you know what, she ran like a champ. Did the same thing today with the last 200 break in rounds-no probs. But boy, was she filthy when I cleaned her!

Lesson? Don't panic if your new gun has a hitch in her get-along. My gal was very, very tight, but now she is purrrrrfect!

Oh, CA, I also ran the final 150 break in rounds through the TE 10. That sucker slings some brass!

Peace brothers.
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Will do Mac. Makes no sense changing targets every four mags. I like the Dirty Bird targets. They are great for impact visualization, but not cheap.

You just reminded me to pick up a couple of packs of splatter targets on my next trip to Cabela's. I've always wanted to try them.
So here's an interesting thought. WCR rep has said many times that one of the purposes of the 400-500 round break in is to burnish the Armor-Tuff in the slide-to-frame fit but what about a blued or stainless gun? Do these guns need 400-500 rounds? Maybe less? :scratch:

Thoughts anyone? :)
My take is this (for a blued gun) - for a blued steel gun, the super fine carbon particles get absorbed into the oil as a slurry, and act as a very fine lapping compound to smooth the contact surfaces.

I always assumed the same only substitute AT particles for carbon particles (on an AT'ed gun of course).

45, Good Q. But I haven't seen WC stipulate anything different for a blued gun. I will say, after breaking in two blued guns this year (TB-WW1-Rep, and WC-EP), the blued guns seem to become smoother faster (vs. AT). That is the best way I can describe it.

Turnbull's guns are going to be fitted differently than Wilson's since they are a different shop with a different build philosophy. Does Turnbull provide any break-in instructions with their guns or did they make any suggestions to you personally either over the phone or by e-mail? It would be interesting to learn if they did and if so, what they suggested.
I feel qualified to answer this due to my current experience . . . Wilson, or the other big guys, could deliver guns so loose as to not require any break in, but once 5000 rounds are put through that gun, slide/frame fit would no doubt be looser than we want.

You are definitely "getting it". :rock:

45, I did one TB gun and one WC-EP - both turnbull blue...
Thanks for your thoughts about this ca. So my take away from your input as well as those from G50 and FBF is that the procedure and round count needed to break in a gun with a traditional finish is about the same as one with an Armor-Tuff finish.

Now is there anyone that can talk about a stainless steel gun? Since this is a material and not a finish I wonder if the procedure and/or round count would be any different than a blued or AT'ed gun. :)

Thank you for a well thought out post. I think you hit it dead on. :)
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