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Baron cqb break in--- oil, oil, oil

6775 Views 66 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  Grandpas50AE
Okay, after slobbering all over the Baron I decided to shoot her.

Oiled her as I normally do during break in. Locked her back, added oil to frame rails and let gravity work. First 75 rounds-no prob. Then the slide slowed greatly. Not good. Bagged her up and took her home. Gave her a good cleaning due to slide slow down.

Next trip, same thing, except this time she started locking past slide stop notch. Hmmmm-this is not good, at all. Instead of posting on the forum, for once in my life I decided to keep it low key until I had all the answers.

Next step-email to Anthony. Reply-Keep shooting her. I'm talking to Steve while ordering SG and describe my issues and oiling regimen. He says, field strip her before shooting and add oil to barrel, bushing, lugs, ejector channel, disco rail and frame rails. He says, "If the first shot does not splatter oil on your safety glasses, you didn't apply enough."

Okay, this guy has forgotten more about the 1911 than I, CA, BDM, G50 et al know, so I SLOP HER DOWN. My glasses still are oily. But, you know what, she ran like a champ. Did the same thing today with the last 200 break in rounds-no probs. But boy, was she filthy when I cleaned her!

Lesson? Don't panic if your new gun has a hitch in her get-along. My gal was very, very tight, but now she is purrrrrfect!

Oh, CA, I also ran the final 150 break in rounds through the TE 10. That sucker slings some brass!

Peace brothers.
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Glad you got it sorted out without a trip back to Berryvile.
I have heard of using toothpaste to polish heatsinks and chips on computers, but always used sand paper when I lapped a heat sink. And no, toothpaste ain't going on my freaking Wilson Combat pistol, unless someone breaks in while I am brushing my teeth! :)
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