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Baron cqb break in--- oil, oil, oil

6779 Views 66 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  Grandpas50AE
Okay, after slobbering all over the Baron I decided to shoot her.

Oiled her as I normally do during break in. Locked her back, added oil to frame rails and let gravity work. First 75 rounds-no prob. Then the slide slowed greatly. Not good. Bagged her up and took her home. Gave her a good cleaning due to slide slow down.

Next trip, same thing, except this time she started locking past slide stop notch. Hmmmm-this is not good, at all. Instead of posting on the forum, for once in my life I decided to keep it low key until I had all the answers.

Next step-email to Anthony. Reply-Keep shooting her. I'm talking to Steve while ordering SG and describe my issues and oiling regimen. He says, field strip her before shooting and add oil to barrel, bushing, lugs, ejector channel, disco rail and frame rails. He says, "If the first shot does not splatter oil on your safety glasses, you didn't apply enough."

Okay, this guy has forgotten more about the 1911 than I, CA, BDM, G50 et al know, so I SLOP HER DOWN. My glasses still are oily. But, you know what, she ran like a champ. Did the same thing today with the last 200 break in rounds-no probs. But boy, was she filthy when I cleaned her!

Lesson? Don't panic if your new gun has a hitch in her get-along. My gal was very, very tight, but now she is purrrrrfect!

Oh, CA, I also ran the final 150 break in rounds through the TE 10. That sucker slings some brass!

Peace brothers.
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FBF - great job on being willing to be self-determinate with the problem-solving. All of us here have learned a lot from WCR, and Wilson's CS reps, as well as the many members here who are so well versed in the 1911 platform. This is a great forum, and especially the Wilson sub-forum. I ran my Baron CQB really wet during break-in, and even after break-in I always have just enough lube to get lube-splatter on my glasses with the first few shots at the beginning of the range session. As you know, that Baron CQB of mine is smooth as butter now, and can easily out-shoot my current diminished abilities. Keep yours wet, and run her strong, she will purr like a kitten when you're done with break in.
That's a good point, a super thin oil might be ok for preservation purposes, but a thicker formula will serve you much better for break-in. Even after break-in, a thicker oil works to perfection, you just don't typically need as much.
Absolutely true. I have tried a lot of lubes here in the Texas and Arkansas area, and the best I've found at staying put and continuing to lubricate is FP-10. During colder weather I might go to a lighter lube, but for this part of the country 95% of the time, I prefer the FP-10.
So here's an interesting thought. WCR rep has said many times that one of the purposes of the 400-500 round break in is to burnish the Armor-Tuff in the slide-to-frame fit but what about a blued or stainless gun? Do these guns need 400-500 rounds? Maybe less? :scratch:

Thoughts anyone? :)
My take is this (for a blued gun) - for a blued steel gun, the super fine carbon particles get absorbed into the oil as a slurry, and act as a very fine lapping compound to smooth the contact surfaces.

You are definitely "getting it". :rock:

Thanks for your thoughts about this ca. So my take away from your input as well as those from G50 and FBF is that the procedure and round count needed to break in a gun with a traditional finish is about the same as one with an Armor-Tuff finish.

Now is there anyone that can talk about a stainless steel gun? Since this is a material and not a finish I wonder if the procedure and/or round count would be any different than a blued or AT'ed gun. :)
I'm not a metallurgist, and perhaps WCR or blr or someone who is will correct me if I'm wrong here, but this is my basic knowledge about steel alloys with regards to the ones typically used in firearms.

1) Since the break in rounds are essentially for "lapping" the friction surfaces, the lapping essentially is a surface treatment. Depending on the coarseness of the lapping compound, the metal surface is being polished to a degree that is commensurate to the lapping compound particle size and attributes.
2) All steel, including stainless, when their surface is viewed through a microscope (at sufficient magnification) are somewhat jagged, an it is the jagged edges of the crystalline matrices that ride along on each other. The idea of lapping is to wear down those peaks, and hopefully fill in the valleys enough to significantly reduce the differences in those mating surfaces, providing less friction during movement.
3) the better the lapping of these friction surfaces, the easier it is for the lubricants to do their job, and the longer it is before they break down and stop providing lubrication.

Conclusion: I would think that stainless steel would benefit just as much from the break in lapping as the carbon steel. Remember that polishing (which is a degree of lapping) is sometimes done before a finish is applied, and sometimes after a finish is applied.

Just my observations, I may be all wet, but this is what I've learned from reading over the years, and is a very basic understanding of metal surface processes.

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One reason for lots of lube on stainless is to prevent galling. Try to crank down on a new stainless steel nut and bolt without anti-seize and see how quickly it seizes. You'll be amazed at how hard it is to loosen.
Yes, and the "rougher" the surface (less polished or lapped) the greater the propensity to do so. I do not know enough metallurgy to know whether or not the better suited lapping compound for stainless is different than the best suited lapping compound for carbon steel, but something tells me the typical carbon/lube slurry formed on our 1911's during break in is more than sufficient to do both fairly well (albeit perhaps better on one material than the other).
I am happy to report that today I put 50 rounds through BB CQB, without a hiccup. The break in is officially over! Long live tight fitting guns.
Amen brother, Amen.
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