Baron cqb break in--- oil, oil, oil

6777 Views 66 Replies 28 Participants Last post by Grandpas50AE, Jul 25, 2014

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · Jul 18, 2014

Okay, after slobbering all over the Baron I decided to shoot her.

Oiled her as I normally do during break in. Locked her back, added oil to frame rails and let gravity work. First 75 rounds-no prob. Then the slide slowed greatly. Not good. Bagged her up and took her home. Gave her a good cleaning due to slide slow down.

Next trip, same thing, except this time she started locking past slide stop notch. Hmmmm-this is not good, at all. Instead of posting on the forum, for once in my life I decided to keep it low key until I had all the answers.

Next step-email to Anthony. Reply-Keep shooting her. I'm talking to Steve while ordering SG and describe my issues and oiling regimen. He says, field strip her before shooting and add oil to barrel, bushing, lugs, ejector channel, disco rail and frame rails. He says, "If the first shot does not splatter oil on your safety glasses, you didn't apply enough."

Okay, this guy has forgotten more about the 1911 than I, CA, BDM, G50 et al know, so I SLOP HER DOWN. My glasses still are oily. But, you know what, she ran like a champ. Did the same thing today with the last 200 break in rounds-no probs. But boy, was she filthy when I cleaned her!

Lesson? Don't panic if your new gun has a hitch in her get-along. My gal was very, very tight, but now she is purrrrrfect!

Oh, CA, I also ran the final 150 break in rounds through the TE 10. That sucker slings some brass!

Peace brothers.

21 - 40 of 67 Posts

ebanul

· #21 · Jul 18, 2014

I use these (100 pack - 7" Reactive Splatter Targets - GlowShot - Multi Color):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAORNHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T1DQ9NM74XJX

cdhbrad

· #22 · Jul 18, 2014

"Some of our posters can't take a dump without stopping by here to ask for directions."......glad it wasn't just me who has noticed that tendency.

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · #23 · Jul 18, 2014

Thanks ebanul!! I'll order a 50 pack of 10".

Tack425

· #24 · Jul 18, 2014

I run my 1911's wet. Like you said I get oil all over myself for the first few rounds, and then after a few mags, more oil, and more oil all over myself from the gun. I run my AR platform the same way. I always bring lube to the range and lots of it.

Now my Benelli M4 totally different story, it likes to be run somewhat dry.

Fred_G

· #25 · Jul 18, 2014

Glad you got it sorted out without a trip back to Berryvile.

tarheeldoc

· #26 · Jul 19, 2014

I like those dirty birds. Just started useing those last weekend. Love those little re usable dots. Can't hardly type hand un steady just placed an order with Greg.

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · #27 · Jul 19, 2014

tarheeldoc said:
I like those dirty birds. Just started useing those last weekend. Love those little re usable dots. Can't hardly type hand un steady just placed an order with Greg.

What did you decide on?

.45_ACP

· #28 · Jul 19, 2014

Flanged Barrel Fanatic said:
Will do Mac. Makes no sense changing targets every four mags. I like the Dirty Bird targets. They are great for impact visualization, but not cheap.

FBF,

You just reminded me to pick up a couple of packs of splatter targets on my next trip to Cabela's. I've always wanted to try them.

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · #29 · Jul 19, 2014

US1911 said:
I think you've figured out exactly what Anthony has been referring to when he advises to run the gun wet. I recently starting breaking in a couple of non-WC custom shop guns. Regardless of what they recommend, they get the same break-in treatment as any of my other new 1911's - field strip, clean & lube, then prior to loading the 1st mag at the range, they get a couple more drops of lube at the firing line on the rails & barrel hood.

About 100 rounds into the firing session, I have to stop and wipe the trickle of lube off my hands, as it has a tendency to run down towards the back of the slide. My last time out at the range last week, I tried out some M-Pro 7 lube, I was impressed, the pistols we silky smooth through 200 rounds. I hope to punish them a little more this weekend.

Oh by the way, nice job taking charge and seeking out a solution. The easy way would've been to just create a panic thread, but you chose to take ownership. Well done and thanks for sharing your experience.

I missed this until just now. Thanks for the kind words. Panic thread is a good phrase. I did not think it was anything serious, but did not want to damage the gun or myself. My inclination was to keep shooting it, but... .

I suspect another issue may have been the use of Lite Oil. Won't do that again on break in.

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · #30 · Jul 19, 2014

Ebanul suggested these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAORNHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T1DQ9NM74XJX.

I checked them out and ordered some in, I believe, 10 inch. Much cheaper.

combat auto

· #31 · Jul 19, 2014

Flanged Barrel Fanatic said:
Ebanul suggested these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAORNHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T1DQ9NM74XJX.

I checked them out and ordered some in, I believe, 10 inch. Much cheaper.

I have those and used them for a long time (when I am forced to shoot indoors that is), but I do not like the black background. I used them untill I found these which are easier to see at 25yards (expensive though):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070IQ4IC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I use these because they are ~1/2 price of the one directly above, and even though they are non-reactive, I can see them extreemly well, even the holes from 25 yards without a problem - something about the florescent geen I suppose (see exhibit A below [pic]):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SGZI7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

YMMV.

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Bigdaddymike

· #32 · Jul 19, 2014

I've used the Birchwood Casey Shoot n See targets for years. variety of sizes and shapes, self adhesive and instant feedback (especially at distance) through fluorescent technology. I buy the multiple size multi packs and paste them either to silhouette or other paper targets to hone in on a specific area. They're pretty inexpensive for what they are and are available at deep discounts on eBay and Walmart.

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Corrigun

· #33 · Jul 19, 2014

Looks like I buy used so it's ready for duty when I get it. I don't have the time to babysit a $3000 "combat" pistol for the first 1000 rounds.

hjdca

· #34 · Jul 19, 2014

My stainless Protector has a fantastically tight slide. I love tight slides. It is a tack driver. For breakin, it was very hot out, and since it was stainless, I ran a ton of lube in it. I also took the slide off every 150 rounds or so and re-oiled it with Wilson universal lube. At first the brass was ejecting at my feet. After 400 rounds it was flinging back a good 4 feet, no brass kisses. Now after about 1000 rounds, it slides like butter. Not one mark on the stainless slide rails.. I compared the slide movement to 2 other non-wilson carbon steel 45s, nothing feel as smooth. I used to use break-free religiously on all my guns, but, now I like the Wilson universal lube. It is stickier and lasts longer on the metal parts. Great for hot weather ! Even now, when I lock the slide back all the way back, and try to rock the slide, I still cannot feel any slide to frame movement. Wilson really makes a nice tight stainless gun !
PS. I will probably go to an 18 lb spring now to keep the brass close to me for easier pick up.

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SOA1911

· #35 · Jul 20, 2014

Corrigun, I buy a lot of used high-end guns, but not because I want to avoid the break-in period--just like to save money. But, I have yet to have one single malfunction in my X-TAC in probably 1,000 to 1,250 rounds. I just run her wet just like all of my 1911s, and as most 1911 builders recommend.

FBF, enjoy your new Wilson.

1toughdog

· #36 · Jul 20, 2014

FBF; concisely precise, well thought/written post!

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · #37 · Jul 20, 2014

Thank you sir. I have learned a lot in a short time on this forum from so many very smart people. It's nice to return the favor. A lot has been posted about break in oiling, but thanks to Steve I was able to expand on the subject. Steve deserves the credit. Kudos also to WCR.

Flanged Barrel Fanatic

Discussion Starter · #38 · Jul 20, 2014

Corrigun said:
Looks like I buy used so it's ready for duty when I get it. I don't have the time to babysit a $3000 "combat" pistol for the first 1000 rounds.

I look at it as the opportunity to learn the characteristics of each gun. Each has it's own personality. The Baron played hard to get, but she may end up being the best shooter in the bunch due to her very tight slide.

1toughdog

· #39 · Jul 20, 2014

Flanged Barrel Fanatic said:
Thank you sir. I have learned a lot in a short time on this forum from so many very smart people. It's nice to return the favor. A lot has been posted about break in oiling, but thanks to Steve I was able to expand on the subject. Steve deserves the credit. Kudos also to WCR.

Can't ever thank WC - R here or their CS Dept., they are the BEST!

Grandpas50AE

· #40 · Jul 20, 2014

FBF - great job on being willing to be self-determinate with the problem-solving. All of us here have learned a lot from WCR, and Wilson's CS reps, as well as the many members here who are so well versed in the 1911 platform. This is a great forum, and especially the Wilson sub-forum. I ran my Baron CQB really wet during break-in, and even after break-in I always have just enough lube to get lube-splatter on my glasses with the first few shots at the beginning of the range session. As you know, that Baron CQB of mine is smooth as butter now, and can easily out-shoot my current diminished abilities. Keep yours wet, and run her strong, she will purr like a kitten when you're done with break in.

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