[US1911]

I suspect another issue may have been the use of Lite Oil. Won't do that again on break in.

That's a good point, a super thin oil might be ok for preservation purposes, but a thicker formula will serve you much better for break-in. Even after break-in, a thicker oil works to perfection, you just don't typically need as much.

 

[TwoThirtyBall]

Good call on holding off until you had more information.

I'm currently doing the same thing right now with a different issue. I just don't think it's good to start polluting the forum with threads that will almost certainly send folks into a panic, which will result in wasted WC Support time.

Once I have the problem/solution sorted out, I can come back and do a quick write up on the problem and how it was handled so other people dealing with a similar problem can get the whole story in one thread.

Glad your gun is running as it should and thanks for not being an alarmist! LOL

 

[Grandpas50AE]

That's a good point, a super thin oil might be ok for preservation purposes, but a thicker formula will serve you much better for break-in. Even after break-in, a thicker oil works to perfection, you just don't typically need as much.

Absolutely true. I have tried a lot of lubes here in the Texas and Arkansas area, and the best I've found at staying put and continuing to lubricate is FP-10. During colder weather I might go to a lighter lube, but for this part of the country 95% of the time, I prefer the FP-10.

 

[combat auto]

Absolutely true. I have tried a lot of lubes here in the Texas and Arkansas area, and the best I've found at staying put and continuing to lubricate is FP-10. During colder weather I might go to a lighter lube, but for this part of the country 95% of the time, I prefer the FP-10.

I am debating using the Universal this summer (I did use it last summer). I have all my guns running on WC "Oil" (not the light) since last winter. They are all running well (e.g., today at the steel match 150R on TE1 with 10 round mags - perfect. And you know 10 R mags are pushing it to the reliability edge of sorts).

The Universal stays in place better during hot weather, that is for sure. But I do not think I have seen Our WCR recommend anything other then their "Oil", if I recall correctly.

I know, "whatever works for folks". But just some observations.

 

[joshua1911]

I have had really good experiences using MPro 7 in all of my guns.

 

[S. Kelley]

FBF, thank you for the kind words. Just trying to help a friend and fellow shooter.

 

[Flanged Barrel Fanatic]

FBF, thank you for the kind words. Just trying to help a friend and fellow shooter.

That comment means more to me than you will ever know, coming from a shooting/smithing mastermind. This fall I will be riding my Harley to see you guys again.

 

[Flanged Barrel Fanatic]

FBF - great job on being willing to be self-determinate with the problem-solving. All of us here have learned a lot from WCR, and Wilson's CS reps, as well as the many members here who are so well versed in the 1911 platform. This is a great forum, and especially the Wilson sub-forum. I ran my Baron CQB really wet during break-in, and even after break-in I always have just enough lube to get lube-splatter on my glasses with the first few shots at the beginning of the range session. As you know, that Baron CQB of mine is smooth as butter now, and can easily out-shoot my current diminished abilities. Keep yours wet, and run her strong, she will purr like a kitten when you're done with break in.

Thanks Pops!!

 

[Flanged Barrel Fanatic]

Good call on holding off until you had more information.

I'm currently doing the same thing right now with a different issue. I just don't think it's good to start polluting the forum with threads that will almost certainly send folks into a panic, which will result in wasted WC Support time.

Once I have the problem/solution sorted out, I can come back and do a quick write up on the problem and how it was handled so other people dealing with a similar problem can get the whole story in one thread.

Glad your gun is running as it should and thanks for not being an alarmist! LOL

My sentiments exactly. You said it better than me. Thank you.

 

[Sawgrass]

How about pic of the gun? Dripping with oil

The other day I was at the range with two and they were really wet since they are new.
The club manager chastised me pretty good for that....didn't let it bother me any.

 

[Flanged Barrel Fanatic]

I'll take a picture next time I shoot her. Even though she is officially broken in, I will continue to apply liberal oil at the beginning of a range session---at least for a few more hundred rounds.

 

[.45_ACP]

So here's an interesting thought. WCR rep has said many times that one of the purposes of the 400-500 round break in is to burnish the Armor-Tuff in the slide-to-frame fit but what about a blued or stainless gun? Do these guns need 400-500 rounds? Maybe less? :scratch:

Thoughts anyone?

 

[Grandpas50AE]

So here's an interesting thought. WCR rep has said many times that one of the purposes of the 400-500 round break in is to burnish the Armor-Tuff in the slide-to-frame fit but what about a blued or stainless gun? Do these guns need 400-500 rounds? Maybe less? :scratch:

Thoughts anyone?

My take is this (for a blued gun) - for a blued steel gun, the super fine carbon particles get absorbed into the oil as a slurry, and act as a very fine lapping compound to smooth the contact surfaces.

 

[combat auto]

So here's an interesting thought. WCR rep has said many times that one of the purposes of the 400-500 round break in is to burnish the Armor-Tuff in the slide-to-frame fit but what about a blued or stainless gun? Do these guns need 400-500 rounds? Maybe less? :scratch:

Thoughts anyone?

45, Good Q. But I haven't seen WC stipulate anything different for a blued gun. I will say, after breaking in two blued guns this year (TB-WW1-Rep, and WC-EP), the blued guns seem to become smoother faster (vs. AT). That is the best way I can describe it.

 

[.45_ACP]

My take is this (for a blued gun) - for a blued steel gun, the super fine carbon particles get absorbed into the oil as a slurry, and act as a very fine lapping compound to smooth the contact surfaces.

G50,

I always assumed the same only substitute AT particles for carbon particles (on an AT'ed gun of course).

45, Good Q. But I haven't seen WC stipulate anything different for a blued gun. I will say, after breaking in two blued guns this year (TB-WW1-Rep, and WC-EP), the blued guns seem to become smoother faster (vs. AT). That is the best way I can describe it.

ca,

Turnbull's guns are going to be fitted differently than Wilson's since they are a different shop with a different build philosophy. Does Turnbull provide any break-in instructions with their guns or did they make any suggestions to you personally either over the phone or by e-mail? It would be interesting to learn if they did and if so, what they suggested.

 

[Flanged Barrel Fanatic]

So here's an interesting thought. WCR rep has said many times that one of the purposes of the 400-500 round break in is to burnish the Armor-Tuff in the slide-to-frame fit but what about a blued or stainless gun? Do these guns need 400-500 rounds? Maybe less? :scratch:

Thoughts anyone?

I feel qualified to answer this due to my current experience. The third time I shot the Baron, after applying oil per Steve's instructions, and after switching from Lite Oil to Ultima Lube, the gun ran extremely well. When I cleaned it, it was filthy. I have very little doubt much of the gunk was metal particles which, as G50 suggested, acted as a lapping agent.

So, to answer the question, I think it depends on the original fit and degree of tightness. AT no doubt has more texture than blue, but even blue should be treated the same during break in.

I get a chuckle out of those who say a $4000 gun should not require break in, and should run perfectly out of the box. We want a gun that is going to run as close to perfectly as possible for a long time. Wilson, or the other big guys, could deliver guns so loose as to not require any break in, but once 5000 rounds are put through that gun, slide/frame fit would no doubt be looser than we want. I would much prefer going through the break in process, even a somewhat troublesome one, knowing the gun will continue to be very tight for years to come.

 

[combat auto]

G50,

I always assumed the same only substitute AT particles for carbon particles (on an AT'ed gun of course).



ca,

Turnbull's guns are going to be fitted differently than Wilson's since they are a different shop with a different build philosophy. Does Turnbull provide any break-in instructions with their guns or did they make any suggestions to you personally either over the phone or by e-mail? It would be interesting to learn if they did and if so, what they suggested.

45, I did one TB gun and one WC-EP - both turnbull blue...
For the TB gun, there is no mention of breakin perse in the manual. The manual is very, very, basic. The manual basically says to lube the heck out of it inside and out. They recommend oil, and G96 (which is very light) in particular. They also say to use G96 on the finish (light coat). The manual does make a BIG point about lubing it heavily.

PS 45, I remember more: The TB gun also comes ready to shoot NOOB. It seemed well oiled so I didn't strip it. I do now remember calling TB and asking when I should first field strip and the said give it 200 rounds or so (maybe that is their "unofficial" breakin).

In reality, both the Turnbull gun and WC gun broke-in along the same lines as far as "feel". After 200-300 rounds they seemed nice. The WCEP had those 2 HP failures in the same mag with a loose baseplate (mag-retest pending). The TB gun, post breakin had an issue with the FP-stop trying to come out. At the rec of Anthony and others, I put one of my TE XXP-FP springs in there and that FP stop isn't going anywhere now (field tested 100%!).

I have one more gun to break-in next month: a TB commander (with WC enhancements ). Then I am going cold-turkey, unless they invent a 1911 that shoots 45 better than my WC's with flanges (TE/EP).

 

[.45_ACP]

I feel qualified to answer this due to my current experience . . . Wilson, or the other big guys, could deliver guns so loose as to not require any break in, but once 5000 rounds are put through that gun, slide/frame fit would no doubt be looser than we want.

FBF,

You are definitely "getting it". :rock:

45, I did one TB gun and one WC-EP - both turnbull blue...

Thanks for your thoughts about this ca. So my take away from your input as well as those from G50 and FBF is that the procedure and round count needed to break in a gun with a traditional finish is about the same as one with an Armor-Tuff finish.

Now is there anyone that can talk about a stainless steel gun? Since this is a material and not a finish I wonder if the procedure and/or round count would be any different than a blued or AT'ed gun.

 

[Grandpas50AE]

FBF,

You are definitely "getting it". :rock:



Thanks for your thoughts about this ca. So my take away from your input as well as those from G50 and FBF is that the procedure and round count needed to break in a gun with a traditional finish is about the same as one with an Armor-Tuff finish.

Now is there anyone that can talk about a stainless steel gun? Since this is a material and not a finish I wonder if the procedure and/or round count would be any different than a blued or AT'ed gun.

I'm not a metallurgist, and perhaps WCR or blr or someone who is will correct me if I'm wrong here, but this is my basic knowledge about steel alloys with regards to the ones typically used in firearms.

1) Since the break in rounds are essentially for "lapping" the friction surfaces, the lapping essentially is a surface treatment. Depending on the coarseness of the lapping compound, the metal surface is being polished to a degree that is commensurate to the lapping compound particle size and attributes.
2) All steel, including stainless, when their surface is viewed through a microscope (at sufficient magnification) are somewhat jagged, an it is the jagged edges of the crystalline matrices that ride along on each other. The idea of lapping is to wear down those peaks, and hopefully fill in the valleys enough to significantly reduce the differences in those mating surfaces, providing less friction during movement.
3) the better the lapping of these friction surfaces, the easier it is for the lubricants to do their job, and the longer it is before they break down and stop providing lubrication.

Conclusion: I would think that stainless steel would benefit just as much from the break in lapping as the carbon steel. Remember that polishing (which is a degree of lapping) is sometimes done before a finish is applied, and sometimes after a finish is applied.

Just my observations, I may be all wet, but this is what I've learned from reading over the years, and is a very basic understanding of metal surface processes.

G50

 

[Mac-427]

One reason for lots of lube on stainless is to prevent galling. Try to crank down on a new stainless steel nut and bolt without anti-seize and see how quickly it seizes. You'll be amazed at how hard it is to loosen.