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I am a "big fan" of Metal Smith's statement..."I only know what I can measure"... how very true..!!
and I have a huge investment in precision measuring equipment..not into CMM or EPM yet..$$$
Any way, Dave Berryhill alerted me to this thread on links...been very busy and haven't been reading the forums lately..Anyway, I have been making my own links for some years now. 1075 steel heat treated to 40-47 RC. I make a small lot with the .156 hole drilled and reamed prior to heat treat . I made a fixture to hold the link on the .156 hole center and then measure from this C/L. Works quite well for me. Use a carbide center drill to spot the face; drill a #8 hole with a carbide drill and finish with a four flute carbide center cutting 13/64 end mill.. I know that sounds like over kill, but the result is a very nice finish every time..
Measuring the distance between the two C/Ls is a bit tricky. The barrel moves in a linear direction, while the link is rotating, so an exact distance from the two C/Ls will usually not work..hence the reason many smiths egg shape the slide stop hole. I don't believe in that practice. If I need extra distance for the link to clear the lower lug as the barrel drops, I make a link that will clear and then clearance the top of the slide stop pin on a rotary fixture on the surface grinder,with a narrowed wheel, so the bottom lugs rest on the cross pin and not the link. The "Corps" armors have been doing this for years, they just use a different method..Works quite well...
Take Care
Jerry Keefer
I am a "big fan" of Metal Smith's statement..."I only know what I can measure"... how very true..!!
and I have a huge investment in precision measuring equipment..not into CMM or EPM yet..$$$
Any way, Dave Berryhill alerted me to this thread on links...been very busy and haven't been reading the forums lately..Anyway, I have been making my own links for some years now. 1075 steel heat treated to 40-47 RC. I make a small lot with the .156 hole drilled and reamed prior to heat treat . I made a fixture to hold the link on the .156 hole center and then measure from this C/L. Works quite well for me. Use a carbide center drill to spot the face; drill a #8 hole with a carbide drill and finish with a four flute carbide center cutting 13/64 end mill.. I know that sounds like over kill, but the result is a very nice finish every time..
Measuring the distance between the two C/Ls is a bit tricky. The barrel moves in a linear direction, while the link is rotating, so an exact distance from the two C/Ls will usually not work..hence the reason many smiths egg shape the slide stop hole. I don't believe in that practice. If I need extra distance for the link to clear the lower lug as the barrel drops, I make a link that will clear and then clearance the top of the slide stop pin on a rotary fixture on the surface grinder,with a narrowed wheel, so the bottom lugs rest on the cross pin and not the link. The "Corps" armors have been doing this for years, they just use a different method..Works quite well...
Take Care
Jerry Keefer
