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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I posted a little over a week ago that my SA had developed an issue where I had to "bump" the slide every time to fire. This issue developed after less then 100 rounds after the prior cleaning.

I also posted that I cleaned the gun and lubed it with mineral oil, since it was thicker than commercial gun oils and I had been using it on my old Hawken for roughly 20 years. Upon a trip to the range a week ago, this corrected the problem as I was able to feed three mags (21 rounds) without any problem.

So, fast forward to today...

Went back to the range yesterday and fired off about 45 or so rounds without ANY problems. So, now that I am approaching the amount of rounds that went thru it previously when the problem showed up, I'd figure I would disassemble and clean the weapon this evening.

Question is, what do y'all think is the best lubricant to use? Do I go back to a conventional off the shelf gun oil, stay with the mineral oil that seems to be fine (although I get a few nice splotches on my shirt when shooting), or do I go with one of those "dry" type lubes I keep reading about recently?

My only problem with the mineral oil is that I have to be careful in dirty/dusty and especially sandy environments, as EVERYTHING wants to stick to it.

Will the dry type lubricate for a longer period then the other types? I'd hate to think that if I didn't clean this SA for upwards of 100 rounds it would fail me if I really needed it...
 

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I like CLP. I use it on everything.
 

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Hell all I use is those yellow cleaning clothes with the oil in them. I don't even oil my guns anymore. I clean them after shooting and give them a couple of passes with those yellow cleaning clothes. Then when I know I'm going to the range I will take it apart and give it another pass. I go through about 150-200 rounds per gun and I have had no problems. More oil means more cleaning from what I've seen.
 

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As long as you use a lube that is viscous enough to adhere to the slide and rails (i.e....NOT WD-40) then it really doesn't matter. My Les Baers, Colts, my Springer and my DW all run on anything from Mobile 1, 3 in 1 oil, Singer Sewing machine oil.....heck the other day I was at the range, realized I forgot my lube, so I pulled the dipstick from the car, drizzled some Amsoil 15-W40 on the rails and off I went.

People forget that 1911's (yes even "tight" ones) have been around WAAAAY longer than these snake oil concoctions that are marketed as "miracle" gun lubes. I mean seriously, what did folks use to lube a 1911 30 years ago??? Answer??? Whatever they had. Usually a can of 3 in 1.

Hell....they'll run on Crisco if you use enough of it.
 

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This question is going to get you alot of different answers: first off sometimes your guns owners manual recommands a certain make of lube. I used Hoppe's Oil on my guns for years, then March of this year I bought a DW Marksman 45 ACP and found out they recommend FP10 on it..........

Clyde
 

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Lithium grease, wilson ultimate lube, non detergent gear oil, cv joint grease. Mostly wilson ultimate lube cause I have a bunch.
 

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It seems, at least on the DW area, that Shooter's Choice FP-10 is the lube of the masses. Followed by Militec, then Mobil1.

I just switched to FP-10 and all the seizing problems went away.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yeah, I seem to think I had better results with good old mineral oil. I was shocked that when I cleaned the gun after the initial slide problem just how dry it was after less than 100 rounds with the Outers oil I had in it.

I was looking for something a little thicker that would stick to the metal a little longer. I knew I had plenty of mineral oil since I bought a HUGE bottle for my Hawken for all of about $1.19 at a Walgreens Pharmacy years ago, no less.

Again the only downside is that it's a bit messy. Not an issue when I use it in the bore of a .50 cal black powder gun, but another story in the moving parts of a handgun.

I've got some white lithium grease in the garage I use to keep the automatic garage door workings lubed, I also religiously use Royal Purple oil in my truck and have some of that as well. I may experiment with those before I go out and purchase anything else.

Thanks for the responses...
 

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I use Tetra Grease on all my firearms. $4 or so for a tube that will last you a looooooong time. I used to use various oils, but I find that the grease is a superior lubricant. Grease doesn't have the problem of attracting a metric ton of dust/lint and turning into a sticky goo like oil does. Grease stays where you put it, and it stays for a long time.
 

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I have used a number of brand name gun oils, and several types/brands of grease. I like Mobil 1 for some applications. I have had a problem with oil migration from the rails, and I am thinking of trying grease. Of course, with cold weather coming on, I will have to experiment and make sure the grease is light enough. Yet another reason to go to the range. :biglaugh:
 

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Generally, Mobil 1 in 5W30 on the slides, though 10W30 is okay too. Stick with me here.

I don't think there's much doubt that good synthetic oil is better than good mineral oil. Originally, oil companies recommended oil changes with fully synthetic oil every 25,000 miles! They backed off that a bit but the difference in synthetic and mineral oil is real. Mobil 1 has a video of a test where taxis were driven 15,000 miles in Las Vegas virtually non-stop. The comparison in the engines using synthetic and mineral oil was dramatic.

Now, let's think for a moment. Who thinks that Exxon or other oil companies are out there developing distilling processes for the truly minuscule market for gun oil?

Synthetic gun oil is simply the same as synthetic oils used for autos with maybe some additives. But, there are three more middle men involved and a tremendous markup occurs. The cost skyrockets for what is essentially a synthetic motor oil.

And there are actually only three "fully synthetic" auto oils as far as I can tell -- Redline, Amsoil, and Mobil 1. The rest of the "synthetic" oils are actually mineral oils that go through a special refinement process which leave them nearly as refined as true synthetic oil but they still contain paraffin which is not a great thing to have floating on your slide.

Either the 5W30 or 10W30 seem to have a good viscosity. They will stay on the slides for a long time without running off the gun but are not so thick as to slow the cycling of a tight 1911.

Now, I will use Breakfree CLP as a cleaner, rust preventive, and lubricant for certain areas of a gun. I have just come to prefer Mobil 1 for the slides. I've tried grease, just a dab in hot weather and it's okay. In some guns, though, I can feel the slide actually moving slower. I have used Militec and it seems fine, though not any better than the Mobil 1.
 
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