[Magnumite]

So when Biden started his anti 9mm rhetoric my niece texts and asks if I would build her a 9mm 1911 befote ‘the law’ starts. I said he won’t get that bill to pass but let’s build one anyway. She was not wanting to pay big semi custom dollars so I told her I have a new slide assembly in the safe. I can get you a frame. We won’t use all premium parts and we can get you a good pistol for well under $1k, I have some good takeoff/accumulated parts we can use and you’ll just be reimbursing me for the bigger price parts, no labor. She drooled so I took that as a yes. She has little hands and wants a fullsize 1911. Here we go.

Well, before this I bought a RIA GI slide takeoff slide assembly from one of our esteemed custom smiths. I bought it because the price was right and new ideas always pop up. She asked, I offered.

I called Caspin and ordered a Foster recon frame cut for C/P ramp for the barrel. Equipped with checkering and integral plunger tube as well. While waiting for the frame I selected parts, did action work, found a couple sets of slim grips, she has small hands.

Frame got here last week. I did the Maryland paper work and the frame did the mandatory one week jail time. Picked up the frame and it is nice. Fullsize…she has small hands..damn. We’ll get it done.

 

[OldBaldie]

As this build seems to be a mix-master anyway; I have some Springfield 'Crossed Cannon, half checkered' slim grips that I took off of my Ronin full size.

PM me if you want them, and I'll throw them across the Potomac from NoVa.

OB

 

[Magnumite]

Taking a break from the pistol that attracts out of spec components, I started on my niece’s pistol. I like this frame. In 9mm this will be a puddytat to shoot.

After mapping I determined the Foster’s rails were over sized enough and the Rock slide’s ways were large enough the fit of slide and frame would work out without undo effort. It did and it worked out in decent time. Dial calipers, 2 .093 drill bits, files, auto metal polish, and oil were only items used to fit the slide and frame.

Here us a pic of the fit being measured with my Central dial indicator. Precision is .001” but interpolating to the fourth decimal place is very accurate. I have been demonstrating this to auto students for eons. This dial indicator is around 44 years old.

Clearances are:

Lateral: Front .0012”, Rear .0007”
Vertical: Front .0005”, Rear .0008”

Only one of each measurement is pictured. The measurements were taken with the frame on a magwell type fixture held in the vise.

Here is the map for the frame. Below the frame map are two bowed lines. Using a machinist square I could see the left side of the railed bowed out and right side ever so slightly bowed in. Pattern checking during fitting bore this out.

Slide map is actually below the frame map on the work paper.

Vertical dimensions for the slide and frame weren’t needed. Measurements for the frame rail vertical dimension indicated about .0005” smaller than theslides way vertical dimension. So I determined I would just use the tap and file method to relieve as needed. So I didn't map out those other dimesions.

 

[Magnumite]

As this build seems to be a mix-master anyway; I have some Springfield 'Crossed Cannon, half checkered' slim grips that I took off of my Ronin full size.

PM me if you want them, and I'll throw them across the Potomac from NoVa.

OB

Thank you. I’ll consider that offer.

 

[Magnumite]

The harrel did not lock up hard so I decided to investigate. Removing the link (oversize pin in a spec hole=beat thesot out ofthe to remove it) and measuring, the #3 link .095” across the midd section. The barrel lower lugs were .098” thick at the flats. The link was a little too short for the lower lugs. There are some who prefer this. I installed a numbet #4 which is a little long. Ised a stock diameter link pin. The barrel in battery is .001”-.002” shy of going into hard lock up. We’ll see how it shoots when we test it.

I am presently in the middle of the timing adjustments. This barrel had zero slide to frame clearance in link down and no VIS impact. Presently lowering the frame rail section of the barrel bed since the barrel does not reach the bed as assembled.

 

[Magnumite]

Fitting the trigger. This is a Remington R1 part. I like these triggers. I will drill and tap this one for an overtravel stop. Shown is the Caspian “bump”at the upper front of trigfer shoe cutout. This bump is usually there on a Caspian frame. I use annold Brownells locking lugfile to reduce or eliminate the bump. This frame also had nonparallel trigger tracks, tying up the trigger on the back of the stirrup. I used the file to reduce the non-parallelism then used the trigger track stone to polish. Fitted the trigger.

The Caspian “bump”.

 

[Magnumite]

She wanted two tone. It may be three tone if I dont need to refinish the frame. I probably will need to refinish it. Here is is in a semi assrmbled state assessing it. Lots to do.
The thumb safety is off a Colt Gov’t model. She said she liked the GI type and asked me to shorten the paddle. I left a little extra on the paddle because of…you guessed it…her small hands. S&A grip safety, sights, refinement, and the finishing type operations still to do. Trigger pull dry breaks clean at 4 1/4 pounds

(EDIT TO ADD: I couldn’t get by the thumbsafety paddle. A little to far back..so I moved the rear of the thumb safety paddle forward. Pics later.)

 

[Steve in Allentown]

You're a good uncle.

 

[warp2diesel]

The full size 1911 9 mm will be more gentle on her wrists than the polymer pistols on the market.

 

[Magnumite]

The full size 1911 9 mm will be more gentle on her wrists than the polymer pistols on the market.

No doubt. And with the rail below the barrel bore that should make it real sweet. Plus it will balance well.

 

[Magnumite]

Thumb safety paddle brought more into GI dimensions. Even with the shorter paddle this should be easier for her to reach. It is for me. Ready for final blending and finsl contouring once the grip safety is fitted.

 

[Ivan1911A1]

I would take just a touch more off the rear lower corner of that thumb safety just so there is no corner facing to the rear.

 

[Magnumite]

I’ll do that ^^^

 

[Magnumite]

Okay, so the trigger had freeplay, not talking about takeup. So I cut the bow in two places close to one another to create a bendable tab. It was just bendable on the other pistol with the Greider trigger. On this R1 trigger I had to extend the cuts to get the leverage on the tab. And use a proper bracing in the vise to distort the trigger bow. So I bent the tab forward to eliminate the free play and recuce takeup a smidge. Take up is now .046”. Then I deburred and polished any cut surfaces which could create a drag.

 

[Magnumite]

Beavertail fit to tangs, some side interference removed.

m

 

[Kamerer]

Well, I opened this thread thinking it was going to be about the 'Vatipants' AR lower that PSA put out to memorialize when China Joe pooped himself at the Vatican before he met Pope Francis. Disapointed wrt that, but still an excellent thread. 👍

Vatipants lower fyi:

Loading…

palmettostatearmory.com

 

[Kamerer]

Love the TS btw; those are my favorites. Considering a new(ish) Kimber and only mods I would make are a Colt rat-tail GS and an original style TS.

 

[Magnumite]

Some blending and more fitting of the gs and ts. All sharp edges of the grip safety and frame were gently relieved with a ceramic stone.

ok

 

[Magnumite]

Well ejector time. Major name ejector but coukd find the maker tag in the box.
Put ejector onto frame (no pin installed yet). Slide installed on rails, cycle slide. Abrasion of slide against ejector shown.
Relieve abraded section. Remarked ejector. Repeat. Slide test.
Abraded section toward front of ejector since center section no longer prevented the front section from making contact against slide.
Repeated relieve, mark, cycle test until the jector passed the light test. This is done with slide pushed down and to right on frame.

 

[Magnumite]

Installing ejector.
Mark with tap from punch from both sides of frame while holding ejector secure.
Make a file mark with corner of triangle file just a little high. The bottom of the cut will hold the ejector fast. This is a starter notch for the round file.
Round file at triangle file starter notch.
Install in frame to check fit. Pic taken with cell and magnifying glass. the out of focus blurr inlower right of hole is the ejector leg. Protrudance if that area was greater than it appears because I could not get a good focus.
Remove and touch file until pin just firmly taps in.
Not pictured. Filed under side of ejector nose to clear magazine with round fully inserted.