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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings,
The title may be a little misleading - since I want to get my slide blued - but not "over" the existing finish. I need to know if I can get it blued if it is currently parkerized - KimPro - or any parkerized-like finish.

I suspect the parkerizing is removed somehow but I don't know anything about it to guess too much.

Also, if the small parts are parkerized I should probably get them done too in order to keep a sense of aesthetic continuity - therefore I should probably send the whole gun in as opposed to sending the slide only.

Lastly, what finish options are available for anodized aluminium? i.e. the frame in this case. Blueing doesn't work does it? And even if it did, it wouldn't match the blueing on the carbon steel slide:rolleyes: so the looks would be comprimised. hmm...what to do...what to do...??

Why am I considering this? The main object of making any changes is to get away from the dull matte finish of the slide and small parts - in this case the only small parts would be the slide stop, the ambi-safety, and the mag guide. And the sights - they would be separate from the slide wouldn't they? The mag release probably isn't important in terms of changing the finish - but if it's easy, I'd include it. The frame is aluminum - quite a nice anodized finish. Its appearance is an ambiguous grey/green color, depending on the light - I like it - doesn't really need to be changed.

Dang! this started out to be so simple and now it's gettings complicated. BTW - the type of blueing I'd like is the shiny black type blueing we see on Rock River Arms or Les Baers. What is the name of this type of finish? BlackCote is one of them but that finish is not done by many and it's been hard to find someone who will actually do it.

Sorry for such a compound series of questions. Any feedback or comments however would be welcome. Thanks in advance!

R. Stanton,
Galileo
 

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You must get back to bare steel. Plating or coating must be completely removed. True Parkerizing - phosphate treatment -is different. If you put a parkerized part in the bluing tank it will come out flat black. If you want shiny surfaces, it must be polished down to bare steel. Old finishes are usually removed with abrasives, normally bead blasting or buffing, or both. Plating can also be stripped chemically or reverse plated to remove.

Be sure what you want and that the shop KNOWS what you want in the way of a final appearance.

Aluminum can only be anodized, coated or plated. Anodizing is not a small shop job and coating or plating aluminum is more difficult than steel. Be sure your shop knows how.

My old Commander with blue slide and black anodized receiver is a pretty good match in color and texture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Jim,
I'm calling a smith on Monday to discuss things in greater detail. I have so many little questions that it becomes a bit overwhelming. I'm looking forward to making some interesting and fun changes though.

best,

Robert
Galileo
 

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Always wondered about "mechanical" removal of park prior to a bluing job...How do you remove the old park from the frame rails and such without removing base metal and changing the tolerances of the firearm?
 
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