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Discussion Starter #1
How do I remove the extractor, is one question???

The other is a bit lengthy... I put in a Videki trigger with adjustable overtravel screw and adjusted it correctly, BUT I still feel the hammer hitting the sear on the way down when pulling the trigger and letting the hammer down gently... Do I need to take it in to have this fixed??? I don't want the hammer beating up my sear...

Let me know what you guys think...

Thanks for any help...

Steve
 

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If the hammer half cock is hitting the sear, it is not adjusted correctly. You need to back off the overtravel screw till you can't feel it hit plus a quarter turn. The S80 guns are not as tuner friendly as the pre S80 guns. You also have to worry about the trigger not traveling back far enough to lift the firing pin block clear of the firing pin. That might require another turn or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've backed out the overtravel screw till it falls out and it still does it...
Even with the stock plastic trigger in it, it still hits at half-cock...

This is why I posted this question...

Any other ideas??
 

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This sounds odd for a Colt and a Videki.Are you sure the hammer strut isn't rubbing the grip safety or perhaps catching the plunger lever(the top one)?I would marker things and try again without the GS.If it is in the lockwork you have 2 choices.Take material off the back of the trigger shoe or trim the 1/2 cock to clear.Some will flip over my second fix,but any hammer I fit has the safety ledge trimmed to a touch lower than the hooks.
 

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80 series should not have aftermarket triggers installed in them, the lever needs to come up 1/10th of an inch to release the firing pin.People like tool wrench can do these things with ease.To get the extracter out, pull the slide off the reciever.Turn it upside down. Push the firing pin in and release The firing pin stop. Push down gently on the safety plunger and ease out the extractor.It is held captive by that plunger. Then, wish you were an octopuss with eight hands when you try to put it back together. Good luck.
 

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Steve,

Take a look and see if maybe the trigger stirrup is being stopped in its rearward motion by the notch in the grip safety lever. Something has to be stopping it if you've backed all the way off on the overtravel stop and the halfcock still contacts the sear. OR, you have an out of dimension pin hole and the disconnector can't move far enough to clear the sear. OR, remove the topend and try lowering the hammer with the trigger held rearward. If it still contacts, it isn't the linkage or safety pins.
Keep at it Steve, you'll figure it out yet. There are only so many pieces in there
and you just have to isolate the offender. BTW, check the little piece that sticks out of the top, front of the top safety lever...the one that actually pushes up on the bottom of the plunger. Sometimes guys will bend it as they hold the pistol upside down while putting the slide back on the
frame. I don't know if it would function with that lever bent far enough to stop the trigger's rearward motion, but it's worth a look.
Let us know what you find.

Bob
 

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Good advice from Bob. I have given this some thought and think you messed up something when you put the gun back together.80 series do not have a half cock. They have a safety shelf which is not much.The trigger will release this and drop the hammer. Toolwrench and others love this safety feature but I don't. I never had any clients that wanted to climb a 20 foot ladder and drop a cocked and locked 1911 nose down to see if it would fire into the concrete.Jeff Cooper would say it's a wonderful solution for a problem that doesn't exist. Colt made a 1911 years ago that had a firing pin safety activated by the grip safety and it was a much better deal,but expensive to machine so they quit it. A Wolff heavy duty firing pin spring will solve the problem if you think there is one.I aquired one of the 1st 80 series, serial no. FG19000 and bought it dirt cheap from a gun store because someone put it back together wrong and it wouldn't fire. I tweaked it and my son still has it.You must take that ggun apart and lay out those little lawyer parts and see how they work and then put them in correctly. If you do that. you should have the OEM trigger working and the gun should be safe, but never reliable. Hope this helps, Steve
 

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Glad I read this thread first. I just ordered a Defender, but I don't like the plastic trigger, so I was gonna ask if those "drop in" replacement triggers in Brownell's would work in the defender. Guess I'll let a smith do it!!LOL
 
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