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Discussion Starter #1
I recently obtained a used 1911. Iwanted to take the ejector off and noticed that there was not any pin visible on either side of the frame and that locktite appeared to be holding it in. Just to make sure, I placed a 1\16" punch into the right side of the frame and discovered remnants of a roll pin. I was able to lift out the ejector, but am unable to get the pin out. Anyone have a solution ?


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Catfish

"You never know 'til you find out." Erik Vines, Age 3
 

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Hi Catfish, what kind of frame is it? And you may have trouble if you try to remove it, the stud may break inside the frame and it will have to be drilled out.

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Metal Smith

The only thing I know for sure is what I can measure!
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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Metalsmith,
It is an Essex frame and I have the ejector out. There appears to be about 1\4" of roll pin stuck in the middle if the pin hole. It wont budge in either direction with a punch and I broke two drill bits trying to drill it out with a drill press.

Catfish
 

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Hi catfish, sounds like your in pretty deep now, did you try warming the frame up the loosen the locktite, about 400 degrees, you can try 1/16 cardide spade drill spade but they are very fragile, next drill with 3/32 carbide. That should go through.

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Metal Smith

The only thing I know for sure is what I can measure!
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You do have a problem, don't you? As I understand it, the ejector pin is a roll pin, and is stuck down in the ejector front stud hole at the level of its own hole. It sounds like the front stud has broken off where it was reliefed to give the roll pin some clearance, and the bottom piece is still in the bottom of the hole below the remnant of the roll pin. Okay so far?

It also sounds like the roll pin is also broken off, but in two places: at the edge of the stud hole, so that the remaining length of the roll pin is entirely in the stud hole, but with the ends slightly flared as a result of attempts to drive it out of the frame.

If this is correct, there are two things you can try. First, you can try to cut the roll pin in half. That should make it easy to lift out the two pieces. The problem with this is the small working area. Do you have a Moto-Tool, or access to one? You might be able to get one of the tiny etching bits, and lower it down into the hole alongside the roll pin, then cut it in two. You might also get this to work with a metal drill bit, but it's careful work either way.

The other possible approach is to try to force one end of the roll pin down, if there's room for it, so you can lift it out at the other end. Granted, this is a fanciful idea, but, without knowing more details, I decided to offer it anyway, if for no other reason than to cover as many bases as possible.

At the moment, I can't think of anything else, unless I've got the wrong idea of the nature of the problem to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Feedramp,
Thanks for the reply. The ejector front stud hole is clear. The stud had never been notched for a pin at all and was held in with locktite. The roll pin is about 3\8 long and lodged in the middle of the frame. I can take a fine pin and can almost transverse the length of the roll pin's center. My feeling is that some of the locktite wicked into the pin channel. I can place the ejector in the frame without interference from the pin.

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Catfish
 

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Catfish:
The wall thickness of the mag well side of the hole is very thin. Be carefull working on this broken pin as you may bulge or break through into the mag well if you get really crazy.
My opinion is to heat the frame to break the loctite bond, then try to drift it out. Failing that, if it were my gun, I'd fit an ejector to it that had one of the legs sprung together some, so that it was a tight fit in the holes (no play once installed), then install it -w- red loctite, let it fully cure and forget about it.
I wouldn't intentionally build a gun without installing the ejector pin, but as long as the ejector stays rigid in the frame, it doesn't matter if the pin is there or not. I'm afraid of the carbide drill running off into the softer metal of the frame as it is drilled. I doubt the roll pin broke in a manner that left a square end to drill into, which might deflect the drill away from center. Of course a carbide drill won't deflect much, before it breaks off in the whole too.
But then again, I'm probably just being "paranude" (Archie Bunkerism)


Good Luck!
John Harrison
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks John and to every one else who has givin me some advice. I am just getting my feet wet and appreciate your willingness to help.

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Catfish

"You never know 'til you find out." Erik Vines, Age 3
 

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It might have been someones' leftover problem anyway. Maybe they broke it and just put another ejector in and used the loctite and you just found it


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>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<

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Discussion Starter #10
Broken ejector roll pin has been removed! It drilled out easily with a 1/16" solid carbide spade drill. I just took it a little at a time and at very low rpm. I used a Foredom so I could feel how much bite I was getting. No damage to the frame whatsoever.
How this small length of roll pin got broken off inside the frame is a mystery. The former owner said he never pins ejectors and that he bought the frame from Brownell's. Oh well, problem solved.
I am wondering whether a solid pin might be better than the roll pin.
Any opinions?

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Catfish

"You never know 'til you find out." Erik Vines, Age 3
 

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Solid is definitely better. In fact, it's standard. I don't know why some folks started using roll pins on these.
 

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Well Done!

BBBBill said it best. My systema has a solid pin, as does my M70. The only reason I can think of why they changed to roll pins is that they're probably easier (cheaper) to make.
 

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catfish:
I use solid pins from EGW to go with their ejectors. I like the solid pin, as I've always had bad luck with roll pins flattening or breaking.
When installing the pins:
-measure your frame rails to ensure that the pin won't be too long
-install from right side of frame -- it allows the pin to go through most of the frame and be nice and true when it encounters the harder ejector leg. Driven from the left side, the ejector leg is encountered first, and it's really easy to bend the pin.
 

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Congratulations, Catfish!
The only guess that I can come up with regarding how the broken pin got there to begin with might be from Brownell's return policy allowing someone to break the pin, conceal the damage and return it to Brownell's as merchandise that was simply not needed to get a refund. Anyway, glad it worked out for you!
John
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks again to all of you.
This is a very friendly group and its nice to know I can come here for advice.

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Catfish

"You never know 'til you find out." Erik Vines, Age 3
 

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Amen on the solid pins! I used to use the roll pins on holes that had been buggered by boobs and were too big for a solid. The ejector needs to be pinned because the slide clearance varies from gun to gun and it has to be solid to do it's job. I'm pround of all of you on this one. Well Done!
 
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