I just spent a week restoring an old fn high power that had the ugly scratched up painted finish. Mechanically the gun was in new condition, except for carry wear. I wanted to completely disassemble it and reblue it and improve the trigger. I knew the trigger pin would be a bitch to get out. At first i hit it with a large brass drift from the right to the left. I could drive it flush with the reciever, but after trying for 2 hrs. To drive it out with a small pin punch it would not move and i didn't want to ding up the frame on the gun, so i determined i would need a small arbor press from harbor frieght for $39 and i then used a small piece of brass 3/8 rod with the end ground to look like a pencil point, with a small blunt tip. The whole brass piece is only about a 1 1/2" long. I then place the frame on a wood block with a small hole drilled into it for the trigger pin to go thru. I then place the frame & wood block under the arbor press and then use the small brass pointed drift to press out the pin. Once the pin moves about a 1/16" under the frame the pin slides out easy. Note the brass drift may bend or break a few times , but after reshaping it, it will press out the pin fine. I then bought a new trigger pin from brownells that drives in easy with a plastic hammer. I also bought steves camps disassembly manual. It helped me take the gun apart. Also you can make a small steel drift pin out of a ground down drill bit smaller than the trigger pin, but the hard pin may still damage the hole if you slip. The brass punch is still the way to go as it will not hurt the metal
Note ! I just bought another $350 FN painted high power, and began the disassembly and the trigger pin removal above failed to work even with the arbor press and using cut down drill bits it snapped 4 bits in a row with out moving. This one was stuck , but it did move flush with the reciever with a big brass drift and big hammer and about ten hard hits. I wasn't about to give up , but what I needed was a more durable bit to drive out the pin. What I used next was some old worn out phillips screw driver bits. I placed them into the cordless drill and held it up to a bench grider and used the drill and the grinder as a POLISH LATHE and turn the tip down to a round cylinder drift to about .075" , note the trigger pin is about .120" . I used this bit under the arbor press and it drove the pin out a little at a time. The ground down bit broke 3 times , but it finally drove the pin out about an 1/8" ( enough to safely use a regular steel drift punch and a big hammer. Note this pin had to be completely hammered out, Alot harder than the first one. I went thru all this to not ding up the reciever and I was very successfull.
Note ! I just bought another $350 FN painted high power, and began the disassembly and the trigger pin removal above failed to work even with the arbor press and using cut down drill bits it snapped 4 bits in a row with out moving. This one was stuck , but it did move flush with the reciever with a big brass drift and big hammer and about ten hard hits. I wasn't about to give up , but what I needed was a more durable bit to drive out the pin. What I used next was some old worn out phillips screw driver bits. I placed them into the cordless drill and held it up to a bench grider and used the drill and the grinder as a POLISH LATHE and turn the tip down to a round cylinder drift to about .075" , note the trigger pin is about .120" . I used this bit under the arbor press and it drove the pin out a little at a time. The ground down bit broke 3 times , but it finally drove the pin out about an 1/8" ( enough to safely use a regular steel drift punch and a big hammer. Note this pin had to be completely hammered out, Alot harder than the first one. I went thru all this to not ding up the reciever and I was very successfull.
