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Discussion Starter #1
Would it be an easy thing to get a II closer to preII specs?
 

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Sure! Just get a five-ton press to remove the rear sight, and yank out the guts. Many guys have recommended a Series-70 firing pin, but those are getting hard to find, and I still don't want the Swartz parts dragging on anything else.
 

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My rear sight tapped right out on my Team Match II. Used a bench vise (with wood to protect finish), drumstick, and a rubber mallet. I then removed the parts under the sight and the plunger from the frame, viola-no more series II! Be careful about the tiny springs falling out from the sight, you will need them!!!!!!!!!
 

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It's a heck of a lot easier to remove a Kimber adjustable sight than a fixed sight. My universal sight pusher won't even budge a Kimber fixed sight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a heck of a lot easier to remove a Kimber adjustable sight than a fixed sight. My universal sight pusher won't even budge a Kimber fixed sight.
I've got a target model. Will a smith deswartz it ya think?

And what parts are left to drag on something?
 

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70 series firing pins are as common as belly buttons and you don't need to replace the stock pin in the first place.
 

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i wouldnt think a smith would do it, liability issues there. you can defeat the series II system by simply installing a series 70 firing pin in it, but i would think it would drag along the series II part in the slide.
 

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"So Lonestar, I see your Shwartz is as big as mine...." - Spaceballs
 

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:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

I have an Ed Brown (S70) firing pin in my TLE.
 

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no kidding on the moving the sights... I was about to use a small sledge till I read on here than Kimber will do it for you...
 

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Since I had one. I put a USGI firing pin in mine. All the internal parts are still there, but they can't engage anything.

Four bucks at any gun show. If you get an Ed Brown (or other quality part) endure it's the .090" tip to fill the firing pin hole. Some are much smaller and will fit loosely.

-- Chuck
 

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This smaller firing pin is most likely the 38 Super firing pin that everyone went to when the REAL major loads were in vogue in IPSC/USPSA. Leaves less of a hole for the primer to flow into...:)
 

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Ok, so you've banged the heck out of it to remove it. Now how do you get it back in with out messing up the sight, especially if you are putting in a new sight? You can't tell me you don't end up without hammer/punch marks.
 

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i put dab of blue loc-tite in the dovetail and it tapped right in. used a drumstick as a punch so not to mar it
 

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So, remove the rear sight and the parts come out - but what is this mention of springs that I will need? And do I really need a new firing pin? I need a comprehensive list of parts and a clear procedure, 'cause I don't know jack about what is in there! Make it clear for me. Thanks!
 

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Ok, here ya' go. Take screwdriver and unscrew the top screw(elevation screw). When this comes out lift up the top part of the sight ( it's hinged) there are two small screws under there that you will have to save (they shouldn't fly out or anything) just be aware of them and don't lose them.
Now that the screw and springs are removed you will find a small set screw that you will need to remove and save for later. It is a small allen screw so you will need a allen wrench, not sure of the size, just small. Now put the slide in a bench vise using a piece of wood on each side (or any non-marring material) so you don't scratch the slide all up. Just apply enough pressure to keep the slide from moving, don't crank it to tight or you could crack the slide. At this point I used a wooden drumstick (it was handy, I play the drums) and a rubber mallet to tap the sight from left to right. It came out pretty easy. once the sight is off the gun there are two pieces that are under it that you take out, a spring and small metel part that stops the firing pin from movement. Now you just return the sight back to the gun in reverse order. It is pretty simple. when you tap the rear sight back into the dovetail look through the set screw hole until you see the little indent in the slide appear and replace the set screw. now you just put the two little screws back into their little holes and close the top of the sight onto them (make sure they don't tip over before they make contact with the top of the sight) and now return the elevation screw to the sight. I put a little blue loc-tight in the dovetail before replaceing the sight on the gun, helps the sight move in the dovetail, the helps secure the sight from recoil.

Please keep in mind that there is a small plunger in the frame that also needs to be removed. If you are comfortable detail stripping the gun it should be easy. I learned to do this from this forum. There is a really good sticky at the top of this forum about detail stripping a Kimber series II gun. It might be located in the Kimber section. (http://www.kerensky.net/pics/series2/)
In the disassembly section, if you look at picture 17, the part that you need to remove is labeled #3.
Once you remove these 3 parts your gun will essentially be a series I Kimber. Keep these parts incase you sell this gun in the future, you will want to return it to a series II gun so you don't get in trouble legally if the new owner kills himself or someone else and the lawyers find out the guns safety parts have been altered. I don't know if they would win, seeing that there are many guns still manufactured without this "lawyer lock" system. Just better to be safe than sorry.

I hope this helps. Have fun and be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, that was a very helpful post.
 

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Ok, so you've banged the heck out of it to remove it. Now how do you get it back in with out messing up the sight, especially if you are putting in a new sight? You can't tell me you don't end up without hammer/punch marks.

My Kimber Target II had the adjustable sights and they went south after a few years. (I use many different loads and have made many adjustments) I bought a Bo-Mar sight and I took a brass punch, small hammer, couple of shop rags, and my wife's hand to hold the slide steady on the bench. A few good taps and the old sight was out. A few good taps and the new sight was back in.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to remove the firing pin safety system. I removed the sights again and it went as smooth as butter again.

The brass punch leaves a small amount of discoloration in the punched area and it is easily removed with a rag and a tad of oil.

Good Luck, Buddy
 

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Thanks!

That clears it up - the spring reference was to an adjustable sight!

Mine's fixed, so my only problem is getting it out..

I'm off to the shop to strip my Swartz!
 
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