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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have reloaded about 6000 Jam free round for my Kimber pro carry. Then I started getting jams where the round makes it into the chamber but in front of the extractor. I changed mag springs and a couple different extractors. I just got it back from a nationally known gunsmith and it jammed again this way. (With the round in the chamber but in front of the extractor.)

Many of these cases have been loaded numerous times. They have nicks on the rim. Could these nicks be the cause of the jams?? Has anyone seen reloads jam like this??

Thanks,
Steve
 

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I don't give them the chance. I gauge 100% and a burred rim that cannot be cleaned up by twisting the reversed round in the gauge goes to the practice box marked "P&D" for Pop and Drop.

How about your recoil spring? Spring life is short in dwarf mutations.

Have you tried factory, or reloads in once fired brass?
 

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A nickel case in and of itself should not cause jams. Quite the reverse in fact, the nickel finish is smoother than plain brass and should run more easily in a semi-automatic or fully automatic weapon.
 

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A nickel case in and of itself should not cause jams. Quite the reverse in fact, the nickel finish is smoother than plain brass and should run more easily in a semi-automatic or fully automatic weapon.
...MOD EDIT...

NICKED rim doesn't mean nickel case.
 

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That is an inertia feed. Since you changed mag/mag springs, what are your running as a recoil spring? The recoil is causing the mag to loose control of the round and it pops free on recoil vice being stripped from the mag like it's supposed to.

EDIT: Try a Wolff xtra power mag spring. What mags are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have replaced the recoil springs too. I do have some once fired brass that I am going to try soon.

Most of my cases are brass not nickled. But the rims are nicked from being cycled so many times.

Wilson mags with new springs. I've used Wilson recoil springs of normal weight. The Smith put in a heavy egw flat wire system.

Thanks,
Steve
 

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But the rims are nicked from being cycled so many times.
I have a lot like that... they catch the gauge and "fail" but haven't had one jam a gun. I typically address the burr when I gauge them.

I'd call the Smith back and ask him for help since he just worked on the gun... Multiple mags, extractors, recoil springs, etc. Are you oiling your mags by chance? I've read that oily mags can do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For magazines. I've always ran them dry. Wilson said to add a slight bit of oil so I tried that too. Both ways have results in jams.

I have three different Kimbers they all do this jam. Recently I bought a Smith M&P 45, it had a similar failure on the first trip to the range.

I've chased this for two years now. Kinda sick of it all. About ready to buy a Smith 625. But I'm beginning to believe that it may be ammo related. Very possibly the nicks. Other than the aging brass I'm reloading the same oal and bullets I did before.
Thanks,
Steve
 

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I have three different Kimbers they all do this jam. Recently I bought a Smith M&P 45, it had a similar failure on the first trip to the range.
Ok, full stop. 4 guns same issue with same ammo. That's got to be ammo, but not the nicked rims.

I'm thinking something changed or came loose that you haven't yet noticed. Check the dies, heck, reset the dies from scratch.

Have you run any factory ammo just to see if it runs? If so, mirror those specs and try another batch of handloads.

Did you say you gauge them?

Same bullets? Check this batch... several makers have changed diameters or offer multiple diameters.
 

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...or bad magazines.
 

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Refresh my memory, does it fire 100% with factory ammo? Are the reloads by any chance loaded light, like at the bottom of the powder range? Happens all the time where guys load the sissy loads for the wife or kids and the gun gets aged and maybe a little dirty and there is just not enough slide velocity and spring power for the slide to come back violently and sling the round out. I see is often in really cold weather where the gun just barley functions.

Think about it you have a pretty big extractor on a 1911. If the chamber is halfway clean that fired round does not resist being jerked out by the extractor. But slow the slide down and it barely flops out and the next round just slowly chambers. Pretty easy for the slide just to stop at the end of the cycle.

When you said it does it with 4 guns, that suggested to me that your are either limp writing the gun or the load is weak.

You also said the chambers but the extractor is behind the claw. That is never going to to work. The only way that can happen is for the extractor not be correct. I would chamber a 100 rounds and watch it slowly because you need to fix that before you worry about the ammo. Even lowering the slide very slowly it should snap or the rim, so there is your first problem

My 2 cents..
 

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I remember when the D47 8 rd mags for the 1911 .45 first started to show up in quatity. Everybody raved about them, but I never had anything but trouble with them. So much so, that when I bought a new .45 some years back, I got rid of the D47 mags and went to plain old stock 7 rd GI mags. Never had a lick of trouble from that point on. A lot of guns that aren't set up right have trouble with the D47 not feeding right and causing jams. The D47 tends to release the next round by letting it just pop up into the path of the slide as it returns to batter, rather than the controlled release of the old GI style. If the spring and follower aren't just right, and the feed ramp is not smooth and properly angled, they jam like a bitch. If the new round pops up too soon it can get in front of the extractor, and if the extractor is stiff it won't jump the rim and you have a jam. Something to think about.

I also found that its better to run the 1911 wet rather than too dry. It will fling off any excess oil in the first couple of shots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've shot very little factory ammo. Like about 200 factory in 15 years to about 10,000 reloads. The jams I've been getting the past 2 years happen about 1 out of 100 rounds fired.
I've ordered 300 of 200 gr swc ammo from Wilson Combat. About the only place to get factory ammo I've found. I'll try it when it comes. Prolly be a couple weeks with my work schedule. Then I will reload those cases and see how they run.

Thanks!
Steve
 

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When I notice a rim with a big enough nick in it I have a file I use to smooth it out. Just noticed a good one tonight.
 

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My apologies for the nickel-nicked misread. Too much Green Death for breakfast. I really did read it as nickel. Obviously.
 

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Did this change happen suddenly or was there a gradual increase in the rate of failures, and have you changed bullets or batches of bullets recently?

One of the issues with Kimber pistols tends to be tight chambers though I have no experience with the M&P lineup so I don't know how they run. Still, I think Flechero is on the right track-you've got something going on in your ammo.

Since the issue is happening across several pistols that have been reliable in the past and presumably (at least the M&P) use different mags you almost certainly have an ammo issue. Check the crimp, COL, the diameter of a sized case (you may have worn your sizing die out) and compare the diameter and profile of your current bullets to previous batches if you have any. Check the seating die-there may be a buildup of stuff on the seating insert causing the bullets to be seated deeper.

Is there anything else you have changed? Lube? Solvent or anything else in the cleaning process? Storage?
 

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I have a lot like that... they catch the gauge and "fail" but haven't had one jam a gun. I typically address the burr when I gauge them.

What kind of a gauge do you use on your cases? My only Gauge is an ammo checker (not including my micrometer or Calipers). I need to explore this
 
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