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So I have a Caspian XR that I am building for a .22 project. I have a 10-8 flat trigger that does not have the tabs for pre-travel adjustement. I saw where you can make the adjustment tabs in the trigger bow yourself similar to the photo below. I just can't get my head around how that works. Can someone explain how the tabs are adjusted and how it makes a difference.

Thanks.

 

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The tabs are bent forward in very small amounts to reduce trigger takeup. Be aware this will require repeated disassembly and reassembly of the gun. But be aware you DO NOT want to remove all of the takeup in a 1911. There has to be a little to allow the disconnector to reset. Unless you have a LOT of takeup with your current setup I wouldn't mess with it.
 

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I like the term "take up" better than "pre-travel". Maybe it doesn't really matter, I just think take-up is more descriptive of what actually takes place.

Bending the tabs forward limits the extent that the trigger can return forward under pressure from the sear spring. Hence, if the trigger starts out "less forward" then the amount of take-up is less.
 

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As drail said, you must have a certain amount of pretravel for the gun to operate correctly. If you’re new to this sort of thing, a safe bet would be to not go shorter than .060” on pre-travel. Adjusting the pretravel tabs would be one of the last things you’d do in the build; first, you’d need to fit the trigger and other fire-control parts to the gun and to each other, and the TS should also already be fit to the gun and to the sear. Once all that’s done, the tabs are then used to limit how far the spring can return the trigger forward when the trigger is at rest if adjustment is necessary.* If adjustment is necessary and the trigger doesn’t come with pre-cut tabs, then you can cut them yourself like this, using a Dremel and a thin cut-off wheel:



1. First, determine if pre-travel adjustment is necessary: Assemble the gun and then determine what pre-travel is without adjusting the tabs. To do that, slide-cock the unloaded pistol all the way to full cock and then let the slide back down. With the trigger all the way forward, then take a sharpened pencil and scribe a line along the side of the trigger pad right up against the front of the trigger slot in the frame. Then, pull the trigger in just until you feel contact with the sear feet (don’t trip the sear, just pull the trigger in until you feel contact), and then scribe another line. Measure the distance between the two lines. That distance is your pre-travel, and it should not be less than .060” for most guns. (Learned from p'wrench)

2. If you have more than .060” and want to reduce it, bend the tabs forward, reassemble, and repeat the pencil-line test until you have what you want (but again, no less than .060”).

3. Once you have the tabs adjusted, then while holding the trigger all the way back, slide-cock the hammer just enough to set the hammer at half-cock, and then let the slide back down. Then, slowly release the trigger. If it resets than you ought to be okay. (Learned from log man).

Best,
Jon

* There's a good chance the 10-8 trigger won't need pre-travel adjustment.
 
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