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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

I need to ask some advice. I have a like-new Springfield M1911-A1 "Loaded" 45 with a Parkerized finish, and I'm planning to change the stock screw bushings so I can install the thin stock screw bushings and screws I bought from Brownells for a pair of the thin Navridex micarta stocks. When I tried to remove the original stock screw bushings, (using a screwdriver blade from my Chapmanl Gunsmith's screwdriver kit that is slightly wider than the diameter of the bushing) I messed up the screw slots on two of the bushings, neither ow which came loose. I stopped before I messed anything else up, and while I could still get the original stocks back on. I've removed the stock screw bushings from Colts before with no problems whatsoever, so I didn't think I'd have any trouble with the Springfield; I guess I was wrong. I suppose I could take a pair of vise-grips to the bushings and apply more force, but I don't want to screw this gun up, so I thought maybe I'd better see if anyone on this forum has any experience with making this modification. My questions are:

1. Is there a particular reason these stock screw bushings are so hard to remove? Is it the Parkerized finish, or some form of Lock-tite?

2. Is there a trick to removing the bushings without damaging them any further? (Who knows, I may want to put the standard stocks back on)

3. Once I get the original stock screws off, will the special slim stock screw bushings fit, or will there be a problem with the threads not matching the threads of the bushings? I would hope that they would be standard original GI spec threads, but when things go wrong, I tend to get paranoid.

Thanks in advance for any information.

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Roger Shambaugh
Ottawa, Kansas
 

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try a soldering iron, hold it on the bushing for a few minutes. This should help loosen the Lock-tite if thats your problem.
 

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I have seen a special stock screw bushing driver in Brownells which has a straight blade screw driver inside of a cylinder. The cylinder must fit over the outside of the bushing giving it support when the screwdriver blade goes to work. I've never used one but seems like it would help.

The bushings must be either lock-tighted in or take a look at the inside of the mag well to see if the bushing to frame junction is staked in. If they are not staked in, try a little heat like goldmatch45 suggests. Some blends of lock tight need heat to remove.

As for the threads, I don't know for sure. I thought they were all the same?

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After reading 10ring's reply, I looked inside the magwell at the bottom stock screw bushings, and from what I can see, I'm willing to bet they're staked in place. The inside end of the bushing appears to have been opened up like a like a flower (well, it resembles some of the prettier 'weeds' in my wife's garden, anyway)

Based on what I've seen, I'm not about to clamp a pair of vise-grips on the bushings and try to muscle them off. The way I see it, my options are to (a) take it to a gunsmith to have the bushings changed, or (b) buy one of the Magna-Tip bushing bits from Brownells. Does anyone here have any experience with removing staked-in bushings? If so, can you tell me how difficult it is to remove a staked-in bushing using one of these tools?

Thanks,

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Roger Shambaugh
Ottawa, Kansas
 

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Roger, I'm going to suggest something that I never thought I would. Get a Dremil tool with a fine stone, hit the inside of the "flower" enough to remove most of the petals and the bushings should come out.

If you don't wnat to do that, your gunsmith can do it for you. There are no oversized slim line grip bushings if you should bugger up the threads taking out the old bushings.

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Roger,

An old trick, shown to me by the gunsmith who taught me lots, should the bushings get totally thrashed:

Take the frame to a good welder, who works on small stuff. (Not the guy who repairs Mack trucks)

Have him weld his welding rod to the bushing. The heat will break any locktite, and the expansion will help loosen the staked-in bushing. Now, use the welded-on rod as your wrench. Once removed, cut the rod and bushing apart and repeat with the next bushing.

Done right, the threads are fine, the frame won't even be discolored, and you simply clean the frame threads and re-install the new bushing.

Tricks, I got a million of 'em. Well, a hundred thousand, anyway.
 

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My question is along the same line. I have a Springfield Champion, and would like to change the stock stainless grip screws for hex heads. Do I need to change the bushings also? I can see that they are in fact staked, and look like a pain to get out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tim, just to change the original issue slotted stock screws to hex-head stock screws, you shouldn't need to change the stock screw bushings unless the original bushings were damaged, or unless you're wanting to intall slimline stocks.

Hope this helps

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Roger Shambaugh
Ottawa, Kansas
 

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My bushings on my 91a1 are also fouled, I would like to thank everyone for all the ideas, I'm off to the garage to try the welding rod trick now. I'll post how it went.
 
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