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Yea, and only $1,699.99, less the case feeder and caliber conversion kit!
You didn't give a price range. Besides, it comes with the case collator. It doesn't come with a plate for the collator though.
 

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In my opinion you're negating the advantages of a progressive press. Of course having cursed at the Hornady LnL AP priming system I can understand why you prime off the press.
You don't get to make the rules of what is or isn't an advantage for a progressive press. Whether I use it for just decapping, or for assembling ammo doesn't matter. I'm still saving strokes over any other type of press, and it works for me, so that's an advantage in my book. As far as priming goes, I don't like using any press to do priming. None of them provide enough tactile feedback to suit me. So, I've been priming by hand since the days I still used a single stage press. I've can count on one hand with fingers left over the number of bad primers I've had in nearly 50 years, and if cases are already primed when I feed the press, I load hundreds of rounds in a very short time. You don't like doing things that way, don't do 'em that that. But don't tell me I'm wrong when it works for me.
 
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It appears I am a little different than the majority. I use an ultrasonic cleaner for a vast majority of my brass. I always decap first so the primer pocket is cleaned by the ultrasonic.

If I come across some filthy-dirty brass, from dried mud as an example, I tumble before I decap and then do a second cleaning in the ultrasonic. This way it keeps the tumbling material from getting stuck in the primer pocket/hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
It appears I am a little different than the majority. I use an ultrasonic cleaner for a vast majority of my brass. I always decap first so the primer pocket is cleaned by the ultrasonic.

If I come across some filthy-dirty brass, from dried mud as an example, I tumble before I decap and then do a second cleaning in the ultrasonic. This way it keeps the tumbling material from getting stuck in the primer pocket/hole.
What solution do you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
 

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I have a $15 universal decapping die and a Lee SS in the garage that I use ahead of wet tumbling. Then load on a 550. Some don't care to clean primer pockets, while some of us do. To me it's a matter of hygiene, not accuracy. I load in my home office, so no dirty brass comes inside.


Depends. If you wet tumble with primers in, then NO, you have to dry them out completely. If you vibratory clean, you can load after separating media.



(y) Same thoughts here.


Garage decapping & cleaning....then storing in spare bedroom where reloading presses are.
 

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I have used several concentrates. You mix it with distilled water, and it goes a long ways.

I have used L&R brass cleaner which is normally used on brass gears for antique mechanical clocks. I have also used Frankford Arsenal brass cleaner and One Shot brass cleaner advertised for reloading brass. They all do a great job, and you can use the same mixed batch for numerous cleaning cycles. I rinse with hot flowing tap water and dry with an old hair dryer.

Do not mix nickel finished brass with regular brass or it looks ugly. Also do not attempt cleaning regular brass with the same batch you have previously cleaned nickel brass. Simply keep a separate batch for each.

Some folks like to mix their own cleaner and claim good results. Using the concentrate is so inexpensive to where I just skip messing with a homemade concoction.

I like to use the cleaning solution when heated if your ultrasonic unit has this function. I save some heating time by using an old microwave that is in my gun room and then pouring it into my L&R Ultrasonic unit with the heat function turned on. It only takes about 15 to 20 minutes cleaning time.
 

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You don't get to make the rules of what is or isn't an advantage for a progressive press. Whether I use it for just decapping, or for assembling ammo doesn't matter. I'm still saving strokes over any other type of press, and it works for me, so that's an advantage in my book. As far as priming goes, I don't like using any press to do priming. None of them provide enough tactile feedback to suit me. So, I've been priming by hand since the days I still used a single stage press. I've can count on one hand with fingers left over the number of bad primers I've had in nearly 50 years, and if cases are already primed when I feed the press, I load hundreds of rounds in a very short time. You don't like doing things that way, don't do 'em that that. But don't tell me I'm wrong when it works for me.
MODERATOR EDIT. KNOCK IT OFF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I am torn. I am using CCI primers and Bullseye, and I get black residue that seems quite tenacious. After running fired cases through ground walnut shells with a dash of case polish for 44 hours I still had black residue inside, and the pockets still captured polishing medium. I will decap them and polish again.

Maybe I'm being too OCD about this....
 

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I am torn. I am using CCI primers and Bullseye, and I get black residue that seems quite tenacious. After running fired cases through ground walnut shells with a dash of case polish for 44 hours I still had black residue inside, and the pockets still captured polishing medium. I will decap them and polish again.

Maybe I'm being too OCD about this....
When was the last time you bought new polish? Also add more nu-finish car polish.

Yes. Too anal for sure. But, I get it.
 

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44 hours I still had black residue inside
That 2 days!! I bet 1 hour with SS pins or shreds would blow your mind. In all seriousness, maybe your vibratory tumbler isn't working properly? Could it be making the noise and not really moving much?
 

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That 2 days!! I bet 1 hour with SS pins or shreds would blow your mind. In all seriousness, maybe your vibratory tumbler isn't working properly? Could it be making the noise and not really moving much?
There have been times I've attempted to clean too many cases and the results were poor. I've always tumbled a bit more than 1 hour. but unless I forgot they were in the tumbler, far less than 44 hours. I always throw in a couple dryer sheets cut into quarters. They seem to cut down the dust and assist the media in removing any tarnish from the brass. If in doubt start your tumbler with the lid off and watch how fast the cases circle through the media. If they aren't moving or moving too slow they are not cleaning.

My $0.02
Grumpy
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
That 2 days!! I bet 1 hour with SS pins or shreds would blow your mind. In all seriousness, maybe your vibratory tumbler isn't working properly? Could it be making the noise and not really moving much?
No, I just forgot about it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
To follow up, the cases came out really clean and shiny after that long tumble. The tumbler is working well, and the medium, fine ground walnut shells, is pretty clean. I added Lyman Turbo Brite case cleaner, about a capful, and a spritz of distilled water for luck.

The only defect is that in the very bottom of the cases there's some black powder residue remaining.

609858


609859
 

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To follow up, the cases came out really clean and shiny after that long tumble. The tumbler is working well, and the medium, fine ground walnut shells, is pretty clean. I added Lyman Turbo Brite case cleaner, about a capful, and a spritz of distilled water for luck.

The only defect is that in the very bottom of the cases there's some black powder residue remaining.

View attachment 609858

View attachment 609859
I have a Lee ss set up with a universal decapping die. All of my range brass goes in a box (5.56, Grendel, 9mm, 44 and 45) I decapp everything when full and sort. Then caliber specific goes in the sonic cleaner with some RCBS concentrate. Rinse in hot and dry in the sun. or kitchen LOL multiple cleanings between rinse outs. Brass clean, primer pockets clean and dies clean. Easy cheesy. Prime by hand with a RCBS Load on a T7 press with multiple turrets always set up. I need another turret but no backorder everywhere I have looked.
 
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