Cleaning

1127 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Tim B, Jul 29, 2001

shamster

Discussion Starter · Jul 18, 2001

I pretty much always do a thorough cleaning of my 1911s after I shoot them. With my routine, this includes a hose down of the entire gun with Gun Scrubber prior to lubing it.
However, I do not detail strip everything all the time when cleaning. Thus some gun scrubber must get into the internals and wash out some gunk inside as well. As you may know, gun scrubber really degreases and dries everything out. I do lube the gun, but never lubed the internals, like the firing pin channel, extractor channel, sear, leaf spring, disconnector, etc. Is it ok for gun scrubber to get on these parts without lubing it afterwards?

Also, has anyone used KG guncare products? I'm looking for ways to clean my guns thoroughly without scrubbing away for an hour. Gun scrubber works to an extent, but it doesn't get all the fouling and grime out that is stuck to the metal. It seems to only get rid of loosened debris after I scrub away. Also, that stuff is pretty toxic, and would like something a little safer. WD-40? KG-3? I'll still always lube after I'm done cleaning, but want the best and quickest way to get all the parts white glove clean.

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shane45-1911

· #2 · Jul 18, 2001

My personal preference is to NEVER hose down the entire gun with gun scrubber or a degreaser, unless I'm prepared to do a complete detail strip, and re-lube. I would rather have my guns' internals slightly dirty and lubed, than clean and un-lubed. I simply don't like the idea of any metal-to-metal contact with no lube in between. But that's just me........

Sorry, I've never used KG products.

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ehenz

· #3 · Jul 18, 2001

I do the same thing from time to time as a short cut. I do not like doing it, know it can be bad for the weapon, and expensive (I use brake cleaner, not Gun Scrubber), but I do it anyway.

I sometimes find myself spraying the entire gun, scrubing with soft nylon brushes, spraying again to rinse, blow dry with compressor, and oil with favorite lube. I also keep a syringe with oil in it to get at the hard to reach places, which works very well.

I must say this method does a good job and I think I can get my 1911 very reasonalbly clean in less the 5 min. I do a much better job if I know I am not going to shoot it for a while.

Unfortunatly I do not know of any way to get a 1911 really clean without stripping it down. Field stipping it and cleaning the way recommended by the maker works well too, but takes a few more moments.

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Billy Ray

· #4 · Jul 18, 2001

I field strip and use Gun Scrubber for the "inside" of the slide and the "top" of the frame only. Everything gets a complete work over with Hoppes (to clean) and BreakFree (to lube). Takes me about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Billy Ray

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Jim V

· #5 · Jul 18, 2001

Ultrasonic cleaner, water, Simple Green. Turn it on. Lube and you are done.

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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
MOLON LABE
Leonidas c 480 BC

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Billy Ray

· #6 · Jul 18, 2001

Jim,

That's something I've been thinking about for quite a while now. Which kind of untrasonic cleaner do you have? Where did you get it? Thanks.

Billy Ray

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Jim V

· #7 · Jul 19, 2001

Used dental from a dental supply shop. Found one big enough for the frame w/o the slide (also long enough for the slide.)

------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
MOLON LABE
Leonidas c 480 BC

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Havoc

· #8 · Jul 19, 2001

If I were to use Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner rather than disassembly, I think I'd use Birchwood Casey "Sheath" spray after the spray cleaner. It really seems to spread out over and into metal. Just an idea.

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Rust never sleeps

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Tim B

· #9 · Jul 29, 2001

Ditto on Sheath. After a detail strip and thorough cleaning/degreasing with Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner, I air dry and then spray the parts down with Sheath for corrosion protection. After that dries I still use lubricant on all bearing surfaces.

Tim

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