Thanks! yeah i did a heavy detail clean and there was tons of grit to be removed in the extractor area. I bought the firearm used and wasnt entirely certain of the internals conditions when purchased. Other than the extractor everything looks good. i did the extractor tuning test and it certainly had less tension that within an expectable standard. so im pretty sure that was the issue. i tuned it up and holds onto those casing much firmer now. wish me luck for the next time out at the range!
also... a lot of people recommend heavy lubrication with 1911s in particular. is it best to lubricate right before shooting, while in storage or both? the gun certainly shouldn't be flooded with oil, but can it be over lubricated?
I have always looked at lubeing like a life long Mechanic does.
2 much 2 stroke oil, engine burns 2 hot.
Grease tends to collect grease & grime oil lets grit & grime run out, & parts stay clean.
I use an oil with PTFE called Tri Flow :
TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE – Triflow Lubricants
As an experiment I tried TF only on an M1 Garand for a High power match. If you do not use grease it will seize up

.
I won the WWII match with my M1 running at 100% I never used grease om my NM M1As after that & do not regret it,
they did not have TF back in WWII.
After 30 plus years of shop use I trust all my firearms to TF. A small bottle around $5.00 is all you need unless you like paying
for gizmo oils that do it all. I have boxes of wonder lubes I found out later were just Automotive lubes like Shooters choice red
grease it was just Mobil ! Synthetic grease for $6.00 a tube compared to $6.00 for a tiny tube of Shooters choice.
I want a lubricant that sticks & yet still flows out grit & grime that we know causes much wear.
Friction causes heat & that causes wear & tear. A few drops before each range trip will prevent wear
& provide easy clean up. Get the grit out & fill the pores with PTFE & good combination to prevent wear.