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Discussion Starter #1
After looking at the trigger fit to the disconnector/sear, I noticed that if I use a center punch rounded off I could dimple the back of the bow at the contact location for the disconnector and remove the trigger slack. I did just that and managed to get the slack down to about 0.010". Almost none. I watched the trigger disconnector/sear fit, and noted that the way the disconnector/sear pin fits, the parts do not rotate. I reassembled the gun, ran through all of the functional checks for a 1911 to make certain that nothing would inadvertantly trip the hammer then test fired the gun remotely. It worked flawlessly. I then proceeded to test it by hand and noted that I really like the lack of trigger slack. I have never seen anything like this and of course I wonder about the validity of what I did. Any one try this or have any thoughts about this?
 

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way back when, I had a para worked on by my"friendly local gunsmith" who fit a new trigger in much the same way. the aftermarket trigger he dropped in didn't have any tabs at the front for adjusting overtravel, so he just dinged out the back of the bow to increase the overall length a bit and remove almost all of the overtravel. that, combined with a mediocre trigger job on the factory para sear and hammer left me with quite an impressive trigger.

a few years later, when I got interested in learning a bit more about how this stuff works, I signed up for a class being given by jack Weigand and took my para with me. he checked it out, dry fired fired it a few times, and then asked me if I had left the series 80 parts intact, as I had an (otherwise) amazingly unsafe handgun.

Jared
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I cycled the gun a lot and checked all features including the half cock. All features are working as they should. I have owned this 45 for 25+ years and conservativly estimate 60K rounds through it. I have worn out a barrel on this one and replaced it. The mod I did was not without a lot of thought and careful inspection of the parts. It did not touch the hammer or sear, just reduced trigger slack. the para ordinace comment is interesting. I will take the gun back apart and look at it again.
 

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One additional comment. This modification did not reduce the trigger over travel, just the take up slack before the trigger bow engages the disconnector/sear set. Over travel was adjusted using the set screw in the front of the trigger. Again the full functionality of the gun was tested to make certain the over travel did not cause the half cock notch to hit, then additional backing out of the set screw was added to ascertain that the half cock would not strike the sear on firing rendering the gun unsafe after a little waer on these parts.
 
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