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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! I have a "Commander" clone that is malfunctioning. I just got through firing it today. I went through seven G.I. mags, each loaded with seven jacketed hollow points. All seven mags had a malfunction. I would be firing and then the slide wouldn't seat all the way on the next random (it happened in different places, not the first round, not the last round etc) round. I've "linked-down the barrel". Had the barrel checked for proper head space. I've stoned and polished all the high spots but at this point I'm baffled. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

Rob
 

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Originally posted by Grubbslinger:
Hi all! I have a "Commander" clone that is malfunctioning. I just got through firing it today. I went through seven G.I. mags, each loaded with seven jacketed hollow points. All seven mags had a malfunction. I would be firing and then the slide wouldn't seat all the way on the next random (it happened in different places, not the first round, not the last round etc) round. I've "linked-down the barrel". Had the barrel checked for proper head space. I've stoned and polished all the high spots but at this point I'm baffled. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

Rob
just for arguments sake put he old link
back in and see how it locks up . if it
looks good give it a go. if works and no jams send it in for a little more attention. just an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks I'll try that. I'm cleaning it right now and I'm leaning more towards extractor problem. I can load a magazine with snap caps and slowly close the slide and recreate the malfunction. After removing the extractor and doing the same thing, I can't get it to "stick" slightly out of battery. Any suggestions?
 

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It just might be that your extractor has too much tension on it..Had the same problem with a 9mm and it turned out that there was too much tension on the extractor..It just needs a bit of tuning..
Good luck..
 

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Grubb,
Myself and I'm sure a few others would like to help.
Clone? Made by whom?
GI mags? Obtained from what source?
"linked down the barrel", please explain.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oops! Sorry. It's a Thompson slide with an Essex frame. I got the mags from gun shows over the years. They have gov't part numbers on the floorplates. I know I need to buy some quality mags. I'm going to do that my next payday. I bought a set of 1 through 5 links from Briley Manufacturing. I followed Kuhnhausen's book on acheiving the .030 space between the rear portion of the barrel ramp and the top edge of the frame ramp.

Sorry
 

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I'd check your extractor tension first.I understand picking the link for the ramp gap,but the link really isn't used to adjust it.Check your linkdown stop,with the slide on and off.The barrel should stop on the back of the lower lug against the verticle flat surface,not the top of the frame bridge.If it's stopping short from a short link,the link will eventually break.If it's good,check it with the slide on to be sure the slide isn't interfering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I thought you didn't want the barrel lug to touch the flat surface on the frame.
How do I check my extractor for proper tension?

Thanks...again
 

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Actually you are partially correct.Kuhnhausen's first book can be confusuing because he talks about both ways.The old milspec guns were set up to stop linkdown on top of the frame bridge.The thing is these were shot with standard ball ammo at low pressure.Today's hollowpoints are usually much hotter,and the Supers and 9s are ever hotter.I think the verticle stop is superior.In the old method,the barrel will link down on top of the bridge and stop downward movement,but,rearward movement is stopped by the link.Hotter ammo gets the barrel moving quicker,and puts more stress on the link if it has to stop the barrel.It can even get severe enough to rip the lower lugs from the barrel.The ideal setup is for the barrel to stop rearward travel on the verticle surface just before the barrel comes down on top of the bridge,and the link is slightly compressed to the point you can feel the SS pin have a touch of drag if you rotate it.No pressure on it is ok too.The bottom of the chamber shouldn't hit the top of the bridge,but be right there with no noticable gap.This is gospel for the hot rod rounds.If your ramp gap gets below .025 or so,you move the bottom 1/8" or so foward and reramp the barrel and blend in to the sides,but you can't move the rollover point farther into the chamber.

A rough chech of extractor tension is to put a loaded round in the slide (no frame or barrel) and slip it under the extractor.Rotate the slide on the barrel's axis and the round should fall out.Now repeat with an empty case and it should stay.Some of the gunsmith's websites go into this in more detail.

Reread your Kuhnhausen book.Consider the first 1/2 or so original spec.When you get to the Enhanced Performance area things seem to counterdict the previous stuff.This and the second volume deal with the 'improvements' to the original design.Hope this helps


[This message has been edited by rex (edited 11-16-2001).]
 
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