Kayser
A properly set up 1911 should NEVER double. Plus, how the trigger is pulled has nothing to do with whether the pistol doubles or not. As far as I know there are only two ways for a 1911 to double, faulty trigger mechanism components (hammer, sear, sear spring, and disconnector), and a slam fire. If anyone out there knows of more, please let us know.
Since you were using reloaded ammo you should not assume your doubles were strictly a pistol problem, you may have experienced a slam fire or two. Slam fires can be caused by a combination of firing pin spring problems (too short, or too weak), firing pin problems (too long usually, though sometimes too heavy), and ammo problems (primer sitting to high in the case, or soft primers). Your gunsmith can check this for you easily. If you do not want to visit your smith again, the best thing for you to do is to replace the recoil spring and firing pin spring, with a higher power spring set. I suggest you get a Wolf’s 18.5 lbs. recoil spring set (which includes the proper firing pin spring) assuming your pistol has a 5-inch barrel. If your pistol uses a shorter barrel get the proper spring set for your pistol. These are listed on the Wolf’s web sight. The web address is below.
Wolf’s Gun Springs:
http://www.gunsprings.com
Then go shoot your pistol with some ammo from a major manufacturer and later with the same ammo you have had problems with. Just be sure to check every round for primers that sit above the level of the case and load no more than two (2) rounds in your magazine until you have fired at least 50-100 rounds, particularly with the ammo that doubled for you. The reason for the 2 round limit is in case your pistol doubles. You may have been lucky before if your pistol only fired two rounds. If your problem is in the trigger mechanism more than likely the next time it doubles it will empty the magazine. As you know a double is really exciting, just imagine what an entire magazine will do.
I guarantee you that you will not be able to hold every round on target or in a safe direction, as the muzzle will rise violently by the third round. Take my word for it, I have been there and done that.
To check for high primers just run your finger over the back of the case. If the primer is high you will notice it right away. Also, if you find any do not load them, just set them aside and either return them to your dealer as defective or shoot them individually if you dare. Since you said you were using "Factory Reloaded" ammo, I suspect you will find high primers and this contributed to your doubles. Though the firing pin and spring will still be playing a role.
Now for the disconnector.
During operation, the disconnector rides against the center part of the underside of the slide. With the slide in battery, the disconnector rests at full extension, or close to it, in the curved recess at the back of the slide. As the slide travels back, the bottom surface of the slide pushes the disconnector down interrupting the hammer and sear. This action is the "interrupt" safety, which is supposed to prevent the hammer from falling even if the trigger is pulled. This is supposed to happen with about 1/8th (.125) inch of slide travel. I will to try and measure a couple of my pistols to find out how far the slide depresses the disconnector, since I have never checked before. Though, since your gunsmith said your disconnector is not working right, it probably isn’t. The question is "is the problem just the disconnector or are there problems with the hammer and sear as well?" Based on your experience, you need a gunsmith to evaluate this for you. So you should still get a full safety evaluation of your pistol by your gunsmith.
Also, while your gunsmith is checking the hammer and sear, ask him to check the slide to frame fit. Ask him to look at, or measure if possible, the gap between the top of the frame, and the bottom of the slide, where the disconnector contacts the slide. This is very unlikely, but it is possible that tolerance stack is working against you and the slide is not depressing the disconnector enough. Though, I would expect the disconnector is on the short side of the tolerance, rather than the gap is too large.
I hope this helps.
Str8_Shot
PS. After your test session, don’t use that reloaded ammo again. Stick with ammo from the major manufacturers or reputable re-manufacturers. There are a few reputable re-manufacturers, and I am sure the people that follow the ammo section of this forum can give you good recommendations.
PPS. If you are checking how far you can depress the disconector before the hammer falls with the slide off, be sure to block the hammer so it can not impact the frame. If you let the hammer hit the frame it can be damaged, since it is not intended to take the impact of the hammer. That job belongs to the firing pin stop.
[This message has been edited by Str8_Shot (edited 11-28-2001).]