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Discussion Starter #1
Recently purchased the subject hammer and noticed a radius cut in the engagement hook that I have never seen before. Most hammers I have seen will have the hook cut square to the reference surface and the inside corner is either a sharp corner or with a very slight radius. On the C&S unit, the radius is cut into the corner. Since I cannot do macro photography I will have to try and explain it via clock directions.

If I position the hammer with the reference surface at the 9 o'clock position and the hammer engagement surface in the 12 o'clock position, the radius is cut into the intersection between the 3 and 6 o'clock position.

Anyone else seen this or can offer an explanation?
 

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:scratch: Can't follow that.

Do you have a scanner? Put the hammer on the scanner and scan it at hi resolution. You can scan small 3D items on a normal scanner. You can crop the section of the image you want to show.
 

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...noticed a radius cut in the engagement hook that I have never seen before. Most hammers I have seen will have the hook cut square to the reference surface and the inside corner is either a sharp corner or with a very slight radius. On the C&S unit, the radius is cut into the corner....
Anyone else seen this or can offer an explanation?
Are you talking about the cutaway half cock notch?
 

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The hammers are cut from precision ground plate with a wire EDM machine and that the how the wire must cut the hooks ad the little trough is the byproduct.

I have found the C&S Hammers to be of extraordinary good quality and finish. In short, its normal.
 

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This under cut will make stoning the hooks easier in the future if needed. Any imperfections in the stones arris (the corner angle) won't create a radiused surface that can contact the release angle on the sear. If the C&S undercut is nicely radiused it also serves to eliminate a stress riser that can lead to hook failure.
Joe
 

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You'll notice that the sear nose is also radiused more than one would think proper. The system works. I have learned to leave them alone. You can re-cut the sear if it wears or gets bunged up, but it isn't necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. That radius does make the hook contact surface a little difficult to make out and I do have a hard time seeing how the sear to hook engagement is lining up. I am use to seeing two distinct surfaces facing each other. There is not much of the hook for me to make out a surface to line up with the sear.
 

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Yeah, I've used almost a half dozen of these, and I'm down to just marking the mating surfaces to check engagement and moving on. Damn good parts.
 

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My CMC hammer hooks are cut the same way. Probably a way to prevent creep. Also, maybe from a manufacturing standpoint, it's easier to radius the corner instead of making it perfectly square.
 
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