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Discussion Starter #1
Alright. After all the hell to remove a barell w/comp, and installing a new barell, the delta shot great. 200 rounds of 155 jhp. groups were sub 2 inchs at 25 feet. my question is, i am running a full length guide rod, 20 lb spring, and a shock buff. It chewed the shock buff all to hell. What is the recoil/guide rod set up you all suggest to preserve the frame (i dont want it cracking on me).
 

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Your setup is probably good if you aren't shooting truly nuclear ammo. Just use a CP Tuff Buff instead of what you've got now (I'm guessing a Wilson buff).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will invest in a better shock buff. By the way, are the Deltas prone to frame cracking? My smith seems to think so.
 

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I'd add a EGW square bottom firing pin stop to slow the momentum a bit and a CP buffer.
 

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Wildcard said:
I will invest in a better shock buff. By the way, are the Deltas prone to frame cracking? My smith seems to think so.
http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29322&highlight=delta+crack

Originally posted by dsk
When Colt introduced the Delta Elite they found that some frames cracked at the frame rail junction above the slide stop cutout. They milled that area away to allow flex, plus although the crack didn't hurt anything they figured that by removing the problem area they'd avoid warranty concerns. It's sort of like cutting your foot off to prevent ingrown toenails, I guess.

Typical of mass-production Colt then did that to all of their 1911 line, but as I said they stopped milling away the frame rail on their new reproductions in order to make them more authentic. Personally, since I can't see the difference with the pistol assembled I don't have a preference either way.
 

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I used Wilson Shok-buffs in my M1911A1, and they lasted 1000 or more rounds of full-power ammo. I put them in my '91A1, and they were toast in 150-200 rounds. Colt now puts (or did, in '98, when my pistol was made) a large bevel at the rear of the recoil spring tunnel, reducing the surface area that contacts the 'buff. This concentration of the recoil forces on a small area is what seems to cause the premature wear. Of course, they are SUPPOSED to wear, but replacing them every time I shoot the gun is a bit much. I have an .090" Hiett in my Caspian longslide, it has lasted 1000 rounds, but looks due for replacement.
The 'buffs on the Cominolli rod in my Delta lasted about 1000 rounds, too (20# recoil, 25# main, EGW FP stop).
 

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dpcdivr said:
Just to clarify, it's been my experience that the Wilson buffs are not pooly made, they are just made using a rather substandard material.
I'd agree, probably a better way to put it. Sure, a buff needs to be softer than steel. No, it doesn't need to fall apart after 1 good trip to the range.
 
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