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Anyone out there who can tell me if the position of the casefeeder and the tube coming out of it are supposed to be straight on top of the opening where it actually gets inserted into the shellplate? I'm putting mine together and if the tube is perfectly staight up and down, it seems to be about an inch or two away from the spot where the tube meets the inserter. The support post for the case feeder is square tubing and the opening in the casefeeder is square and not adjustable for positioning, so what gives? Is the tube supposed to be at the funky angle going into the inserter? I probably have the terminology all wrong, because I don't have the instruction sheet. I'm having Dillon send me one, but figured someone here would know. Thanks in advance guys.
 

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Move parts 13271, post studs, aft one hole. The threaded hole closest to you on the bottom should be empty. The exploded drawing in the book has them and the bin bracket mount screw backwards. In other words, you casefeeder is too far forward/close to you.

Let me know if this works. I have been through this before...

Tom
AF Shooting Team
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Tom,

You called it!! That was my problem and now it'a all better. I just picked this unit up and it was already assembled and minus the manual. Dillon has one on the way, but I knew I could get an answer off a forum board quicker. Now I have to decide whether to keep this press and sell my 650 or vice versa. This 1050 is the non-Super one and is like new, but set up with the carbide Dillon 223 Rem. dies. I do reload for that caliber but would rather have this press set up for 45 ACP, but the toolheads and conversion kits for the 1050 are EXPENSIVE. Do you think the 1050 is that much better than the 650 to warrant such a higher cost? I think its built in primer pocket swager is a great idea. No more screaching halts everytime a piece of crimped primer military brass gets in my supply line. If there were someone local to the Los Angeles area who could lend me the conversion for 45 ACP for the press for me to try it out it would help in the decision making. Also, I have read a couple threads alluding to the Super version having some drawbacks when compared to the older version......any news on that? Thanks again for the assist.
 

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Keep the 1050, and keep the 650 too! No, I let my 650 go when I got into a little used 1050 and never looked back. I too had sticker shock when I figured up how much it would cost to get set up in the 6 calibers I load. I then went through the manual in the back where it shows all the parts needed for the conversions and figured out which individual parts I needed for the conversions. Cost me $160 for all the goodies instead of buying the whole caliber conversion kit from Dillons.
As far as being difficult to switch calibers, I find that it takes me 15min. or less to tear it down, clean it(important!) and set it up for another caliber. I refuse to spend 150 buck or whatever it is for another tool head. Wasnt bad on the 650, but not for the 1050! I was lucky to sell my 650 set up for what I bought my 1050 for, good luck to you. Once you get the 1050 set up you will wonder why it took you so long to get one, and you wont want to be without one. I saw your post last night and couldnt get to the bench to post until know. I knew someone would help you out. Enjoy your new toy, DC

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front sight is good, front sight is good!
 
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