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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are all the possible causes of disconnector click? Is it binding in the tunnel? Or binding in the clearance cut-out in the bottom of the slide? Or can there be other causes? What are the fixes for these problems? How does staking the tunnel fix this? How does deepening the disconnector notch affect disconnector click? I read Metalsmith's post where he recommends the Infinity disconnector, but I am wondering if there are additional ways for binding to occur.
 

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The click you hear is normal with all disconnectors. The disconnector is under spring tension (from the sear spring), so it will make this noise whenever the slide is cycled, and the disconnector "springs" up. The noise you hear is the disconnector contacting the sear pin - perfectly normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was asking about disconnector click that occurs when trigger squeeze is begun. This is not the time for the click to occur, is it?
 

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Ahhhh!!! You may be hearing the disconnector hitting the slide. Brownell's sells a disconnector notch "scraper" tool, that deepens the notch. This may help. Also, make sure that the bottom end of the disconnector is free from marks/scores where it contacts the trigger bow. A quick, light polish of this surface wouldn't hurt. Also, a drop of good lube on this surface and where the middle sear spring arm contacts the disconnector wouldn't hurt. Make sure that the "crud" is cleaned out of the disconnector tunnel as well.

Hope this helps.
 

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Slightly flex the arm of the sear spring that pushes up the rear of the disconnector; this usually tensions it sufficiently to overcome the click. A good dose of dry moly disulphide lube on all moving parts also negates disconnector click. If all else fails, try some different disconnectors.
Disconnector click is not normal function.
 

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Good question and a lot of good answers.

You will see some gunsmith's stake the top of the disconector forward by swaging metal behind it, also some will swage in front of the hole. The Click is anoying. Yes.

If you get carried away and make it to tight you will make it so the top will not pivot and you can not pull the trigger (don't ask why I know that
)

There is long disconectors. 1.315 ish.
they are long intentionally. choose between the disconector stoping it's upward movement on the sear pin OR it stoping inside the slide's cut out. If your going for a really light pull you can sometimes feel the bottom of the disconector drag across the sear pin. With the long one it does not touch the pin.

try polishing the back of the trigger where it meets the disconnector, the front of the disconector where it meets the trigger, the back where the angle meets the sear spring, the top of the sear spring leaf where it contacts the disconector. SLIGHTLY round the top of the disconector so where it hits inside the slide it does not dig or scrape the inside of the slide.

Hope this helps
geo ><>
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, George. This is real 24 kt. info.

George Smith wrote:
There is long disconectors. 1.315 ish.
they are long intentionally. choose between the disconector stoping it's upward movement on the sear pin OR it stoping inside the slide's cut out. If your going for a really light pull you can sometimes feel the bottom of the disconector drag across the sear pin. With the long one it does not touch the pin.
 

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Originally posted by George Smith:
SLIGHTLY round the top of the disconector so where it hits inside the slide it does not dig or scrape the inside of the slide.

Hope this helps
geo ><>
V-E-R-Y slightly eh, George?



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