[gewehr3]

The top end of the disconnector of my Kimber Classic drags noticeably on the slide when moved.

Will slightly stoning the top of the diconnector cause problems. The source of the problem appears to be the seam line left over from the MIM process.


Thanks

 

[fremont]

Reducing disconnector length is something that has always concerned me. How about plunking down a few bucks ($15-$20?) and buying a forged disconnector from Ed Brown, Nowlin, etc?

 

[shane45-1911]

The top of the disconnector is supposed to lightly, and smoothly ride up against the slide.

Make sure that the top of the disconnector is nicely polished (don't remove any metal), and make sure that the rib on the slide is lubed, where the disconnector slides along.

[This message has been edited by shane45-1911 (edited 08-25-2001).]

 

[gewehr3]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll try a new disconnector. Will disconnectors just drop in or do they require fitting?

 

[shane45-1911]

Should be a drop in fit. Make sure you polish the rounded top of the disconnector, and the bottom "plate" where the sear spring contacts it, and where the back of the trigger bow contacts it.

 

[Powderman]

If it really bothers you, you can get a scraper from Brownells (www.brownells.com) that will allow you to deepen the disconnector notch, which is really the safe way to do it. You should not shorten your disconnector. Polishing is OK, though.

 

[RickB]

I'm having a disconnector "click" problem; doesn't altering the disconnector slot negatively affect the disconnector function? The disconnector should, at the slightest rearward movement of the slide, disconnect the trigger from the sear; if you deepen or lengthen the slot, aren't you increasing the distance that the slide will have to travel, and increase the possibility of firing out of battery?

 

[BBBBill]

Deepen the slot, but don't lengthen it & you'll be OK.

 

[shane45-1911]

Originally posted by BBBBill:
Deepen the slot, but don't lengthen it & you'll be OK.

Correct!