[malmon]

I know most of you have said that you should shoot the heck out of your pistol first before having any mods done but...

-Do I need to have my barrel throated?
-How about a trigger job, do I need one? Is 4.5 lbs a good halfway mark for carry and target shooting?

Has anybody tried putting in an Ed Brown Maxiwell (wedge-type MSH and removable magwell combo)on their Daly? Is it truly drop in (with some installation advice from you guys of course

) or would I just end up running to a smith the next day? And again, do I really need this?

Thanks!

 

[NetLar]

Does it feed reliably? If so, you don't need to have it throated.

It's not just the weight - tho 4.5 lbs is fine for combined carry & target shooting; most folks recommend _not_ going below 4lbs on a carry pistol. Is the release crisp? By replacing parts, I've achieved a clean 3.5lb pull weight on what's become a target pistol and it's pretty light. Four to 4.5 lbs with a clean break wouldn't bother me.

On the magwell: Funny you should ask. The pistol with the trigger job is a CD FS, and the Ed Brown Maxiwell is one of the mods. Haven't shot it since the changes (about 2K rounds before), but it feels good.

Yes, it took a little fitting, had to open up the CD frame in the area around the MSH to eliminate some binding and had to shorten the grip safety to prevent interference (the Ed Brown part is taller than the stock CD part). I went slow and careful, took about 90 minutes of bench time.

I want to post some pictures, but still haven't figured out how. Have a good digital camera, just haven't gotten a good answer as to the step by step process. JB tried to help but wasn't clear. Hey Walking Point, HELP!

 

[malmon]

Netlar,

So far it feeds factory ammo (FMJ and 1 type of HP). It only has problems with reloads but then again the reloads weren't quite up to spec either. Haven't had a chance to try it out with other types yet.

As for the trigger pull, its not really that crisp but its ok. BTW, what replacement trigger did you put in? I was thinking of a 3-hole Videki although this is more for aesthetic reasons than anything else.

As for the Maxiwell, I was really hoping for it to be really drop-in since I don't want to perform major surgery on my Daly yet. If ever I do, I'd probably have a Smith do it since I don't have the necessary skills. I really like the idea of being able to remove the magwell when not needed.

As for posting pictures here's a thread on how to go about it:
http://www.1911forum.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000003.html

Thanks for the reply and hoping to see those pix soon!

 

[gunny]

Hey Malmom,
Keep in mind-this is only my .02 worth. I would only have a throat job if the gun wasn't feeding the ammo. My Daly has gobbled up everything fed to it without any problems. This includes hp, fmj, fpj, and it fed 200gr swc out of the box. I think 4.5lbs is okay for the trigger.
In most instances, I don't put much stock into "drop-in" parts. Every brand of 1911 has it's quirks and there isn't a whole lot of aftermarket parts that can fit into every brand of 1911. I sure there are some that will work though. A little fitting on your part or by a gunsmith will not only give you pride in ownership, but also the confidence that your pistol will function reliably.

good shootin', gf

 

[Baldo]

Hi malmon,

Glad to hear that you already got your pistol. It seems that you've been also hit by the "itch" to modify your 1911. IMO you don't need to throat the barrel of your Daly. Just give it some time to beak-in, as what james beam advised. If your having feeding problems with your Daly, I guess it is better to change the recoil springs to 16.5 lbs.

Good luck.

 

[james beam]

hi malmon, i tried e-mailing you the other day, but the server says e-mail address wasnt valid. but when i e-mail you from here it seem's to work

anyway baldo is correct. give it a little time. your barrel should be fine as is. i use a 18.5 wolf spring. it depend on your loads.usely heavier springs helps protect your frame from abuse

wilson's has a mag-well that fits under your gripps,no modifying required.and they are nice looking and works.and if you decide to concel & carry and dont like the bulk of a maggwell,you can easly remove it and reinstall. it comes in blue and stainless, i think there around $30 each. well its nice hearing from you keep us posted. e-mail me when you like. sincerly jb

 

[vega]

malmon,

If you want to get a wilson trigger go to Chris sportshouse at sm city. They have old stock worth only P1200. Only one left. If you want to change the link lets buy the wilson link. 6 pieces for only P250. Let's split it 2 ways or if Baldo is interested 3 ways.

My trigger pull according to my smith is 2.5 lbs. I use it ONLY for competition and not around the house. It's either the .380 or the .38 cal.

As you said in your range report, it ate up everything except the reloads which were out of specs. So no need for you to change anything.

vega

 

[malmon]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Its just that I've been going to the various gunshops here in Manila and when in them I just can't help but start thinking how this or that part will look or work on your pistol. I'm sure you all know what I mean. You've been there at one time or the other. I guess its that "itch" all of you have been talking about.

So I guess throating is out for the meantime until I completely break-in the pistol right?

But I guess everyone agrees that a good trigger job is useful right? Besides, the labor is so cheap here.

Vega,
I went to True Weight the other day and got a price list for their smithing jobs. Trigger jobs only cost P400, throating P200 and checkering 800. Have you heard any feedback about their work? Are they as good as say Jun Tuason (I heard he's a good smith)? The Videki trigger I like cost around the same as the Wilsons and also look the same with those three lightening holes. Since they don't take plastic (didn't bring enough cash) I plan to go back within the week to try out their TMJ ammo and maybe have my shells reloaded as well. As for the wilson link kit, aren't the links in that kit of various lengths/sizes? The reason for it being a kit I think is for you to be able to adjust barrel position to your needs. P250 lang and not P2500? A single Caspian link at Jethros is about 400 already.

JB,
If [email protected] doesn't work anymore, you can try this: [email protected]

I really appreciate those helpful emails.

 

[WilDJ]

It ia always nice to see a kabayan on the forum. Well as far as the throating job is concerned, if your pistol feeds well, you do not need it. A trigger job, well it depends. If this is your carry pistol, my opinion is 4.5 lbs. is just right. Night sights maybe, if your pistol doesn't have those yet.

------------------
Protect LIFE...you only have ONE.

 

[Walking Point]

A trigger job is always useful. It can be smoothed out at home with careful polishing, but getting it really nice generally requires a professional. I've had good luck just replacing everything with Wilson components and playing around with the spring, but that's overly expensive for the most part. You will definitely want to replace the factory trigger regardless of what you do. The factory trigger is not adjustable and is sloppy at best.

The barrel is already moderately throated and should require no more than a polishing to smooth everything out and make it look "pretty". Mine didn't need polishing in order to function, but I did it anyway out of habit.

The gun should have a beveled mag well, so I'd be sure I really needed an add-on unit before buying one. If you do, then be aware that your factory mags will no longer fit.

 

[malmon]

WilDJ,

Nice to hear from another kabayan as well. There's a couple of us around (maybe more) like Vega and Baldo.

Walking Point,

If I do get a new trigger, does this mean I'd also have to replace both the hammer and sear as well?

With a magwell, my mecgars won't work? Is this because of the mag boot shape/size? If so, which mags would work aside from shoeless mags? CMCs?

Again, thanks!

 

[cwm1150]

Glad to see that our friends in Philipines are enjoying their guns.:d I had my CD throated since it did not feed to well and went to a wolf 17lb spring and a heavy duty recoil spring that helped alot.

------------------
Men sleep safe in there beds at night because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.

 

[vega]

malmon - The links are numbers 4 & 5. I don't know what they use for .45 ACP but we could measure it before we buy. Yes its P250 lang.

I have no idea if True Weight is as good as Tony Pascual or Tuason but that checkering is cheap. Ask them for the works they made on other guns. That way you'll know if they are good.

WilDJ - Open carry ba kayo Texas? Buti ka pa.

vega

 

[james beam]

malmon, you can install a new trigger without having to change out any other parts. now if you was to be changing out,lits say your hammer,than most of us who have done as much at one time are the other. would strongly recommend using a sear and hammer of the same manufactor, because it wouldnt take very little, if not ,no stoning are polishing at all. bumper pade's would help on magwells, as you have already pointed out

 

[Walking Point]

The trigger will be all that you need to replace right off. The cast disconnector can be somewhat polished, as well as the back of the trigger bow. This is what will make the pull smoother. The important part of a new trigger is getting it to fit perfectly in the frame. Up and down movement does not help the trigger pull.

The factory mags have a wide base that will not fit in a mag well. Something like Chip McCormick, Wilson, or even USGI mags with Ed Brown (also many others) bumper pads will work just fine. Anything that extends beyond the sides of the magazine will interfere with a mag well.

 

[malmon]

WP/JB,

I talked to a smith here and he said that for me to have a trigger job done on my Daly, I would also have to replace my hammer & sear. Is this true?

Can a trigger job be done by simply repalcing the trigger (possibly with a wilsons or videcki) and mating it with the Daly's existing sear/hammer combo? I can still live with the hammer for now although I don't like the casting pits on mine. I would've wanted to simply replace only the trigger in the meantime due to budget constraints.

Thanks!

 

[james beam]

hi malmon, if you want a decent trigger pull? a properly fitted adjustable trigger,by kings cmc wilsons ect...will do just fine. without having to replace anything eles.the little allenhead screw thats in these triggers that are mention above. are adjusting your sear and dissconector release",for when you pull your trigger. also the set screw helps eliminates trigger creeping.like wp mention above having you trigger properly fitted is the key,when you get a new trigger", it usely requires removing a little off the top and bottom of the trigger part itself,once that is done the trigger should move freely. if not? take a candle and smoked the railings,reinstall trigger into your cd,pull it back out" look at the railings to see were its rubbing? polish with fine sandpapper,try it...if it still isnt moving in and out freely? resmoked the railing, and try it again,repeat untill you get it working freely. once you accomplishing that. reassemble your 1911. and adjust your set screw,untill it barely releases your hammer.note once that is accomplished,perform safty check. if you need help on that let us know.