Just FYI it doesn't look like a Colt frame to me. Possibly a WW2 Remington Rand?
For me the tell is the lack of a VP proof mark and the short "ears" at the rear of the frame.Agreed, it has a WWII “rushed” look to some of the none-critical machine cuts. Possibly Colt but s/n would tell.
Yep, short ears, lack of acceptance stamp. Only one inspector stamp on guard instead of typical two. Milling marks on A1 cut looks like RR.For me the tell is the lack of a VP proof mark and the short "ears" at the rear of the frame.
Might be had it a long time as I recall it had a Colt slide in it .Just FYI it doesn't look like a Colt frame to me. Possibly a WW2 Remington Rand?
You are correct on that and I did . Here are some more reading I took that lead me to believe the slide was out of spec and causing the poor accuracy ( 10 to 12 inches low at 25 feet ) these pictures show the Rock slide and the protractor app showing right at 1/8 degree at the barrel hood this should work out to right at 1 degree at the barrel end. ( sorry no pictures of the app not enough hands to take one ). The second picture shows the other slide as you can see the bubble is back and barrel is downwards app showing a tad over 1 degree so at the other end barrel would have to much downwards angle. At 25 feet it would be a bunch.Agreed, it has a WWII “rushed” look to some of the none-critical machine cuts. Possibly Colt but s/n would tell.
Accuracy doesn’t suffer as you say based on the brand of the bushing, it’s more dependent upon the size and resulting fit. You need to measure the the barrel OD and slide ID very accurately and then size the bushing accordingly.
Here is a picture of the other side. The hand put on number as I recall was from the Clark company doing some work on it as the seller told me this was a practice pistol for the other one I purchased with it. And it was reworked by the Clark company and was marked as such.For me the tell is the lack of a VP proof mark and the short "ears" at the rear of the frame.
Got it together and checked all the safety and checked for trigger follow. Cycling great , already did the trigger work 3 1/2 pound pull smooth. Pull the firing pin and did some target sighing, sights look close. Try to get to the range after the holidays. Most of my builds are from 80% frames. So this one is lots of fun even with all the problems the first slide was giving me. Think it’s my first non ramped 38 Super. All my others 38 supers are ramped.Whatever it is, that is a cool old frame for a project. I’d love to find one like that; not as easy these days as it used to be!
You are correct I did some checking and it is and RR frame guess I will have to change those grips. Thanks for the heads up dsk.Just FYI it doesn't look like a Colt frame to me. Possibly a WW2 Remington Rand?
Here is a picture of the competition Colt from the Clark company. The RR was his practice pistol I bought them as a pair back in the late 70’s or early 80’s if you load some good rounds that Colt will put them right where you point it . WOW took 10 try’s to get these pictures to load .Just FYI it doesn't look like a Colt frame to me. Possibly a WW2 Remington Rand?
If this one shoots good I will have to name it Rattlesnake and get some grips with rattlesnake emblems. 1911’s ForeverIn all the years I have tweaked 1911s I found that it doesn't really matter if the slide rattles on the rails if the gun will chew the center out of a Bullseye regularly. What matters is that the barrel goes into full battery in the exact same way every time the slide cycles. Consistency is important - tightness not so much. I have shot many old Colts that rattled but would chew up an X.
A good rib kills 1/3 of felt recoil.Here is a picture of the competition Colt from the Clark company. The RR was his practice pistol I bought them as a pair back in the late 70’s or early 80’s if you load some good rounds that Colt will put them right where you point it . WOW took 10 try’s to get these pictures to load . View attachment 682383 View attachment 682380