Drop in Mag Catch Doesn't

1727 Views 12 Replies 8 Participants Last post by jrf, Jan 9, 2002

RyanM

Discussion Starter · Nov 28, 2001

I got an Ed Brown extended magazine catch to replace the stock catch on my Charles Daly EFS. The stock catch was problematic; it was rough on the inside and would catch magazines as they were inserted.

I tried to remove the old catch, but I thought the lock pin was a standard screw, so I tried unscrewing it and of course stripped the screw. (I now know better after looking it up.) The screw was completely unusable, so I used a dremel to get the lock off. I didn't touch the frame, though, just cut into the lock with the dremel enough to break the lock and get it out.

That's really just background... the frame is fine, I didn't touch it with the dremel at all. the problem is the Ed Brown catch won't go into the frame all the way. If I really push it I can get it about halfway in, so that maybe 1/10" or so of the right side of the catch is sticking out the right side of the frame. It won't go any farther. Any ideas on how to get the thing in?

Thanks,

Ryan

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catbird

· #2 · Nov 28, 2001

The Charles Daily frame is not an exact copy of a 1911 in certain places (although it is close). The mag. catch is one of the places it is off just alittle. The Ed Brown catch will work, you just have to "open" up the mag catch channel alittle on both sides. Each side has a different diameter hole so be careful if you have never done this.

I wouldn't attempt this unless I had at least a drill press and vise. This would ensure that everything is kept straight and true.

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RyanM

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 28, 2001

I've got the drill press and vise. By opening up the mag catch channel I assume you mean just making the holes a little deeper? I don't think the circumference of the holes on either side of the frame is the problem, as the mag catch does go part way in, but the right side of the mag catch seems to be snagging on something inside the right side of the frame. Would a small round file be better to use, to open up the mag release hole a bit?

Can you tell me the other places where a Charles Daly does not match standard 1911 specs?

Thanks,
Ryan

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GrandmasterB

· #4 · Nov 28, 2001

I've always been one to file the inexepensive part instead of the expensive one. I'd take a Dremel or file to the Ed Brown mag catch instead of the frame. Make it a little smaller in diameter and it should drop in. Any file marks will be hidden from view once the mag catch is installed.

Good luck to you!

------------------
Byron Simpson

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George Smith

· #5 · Nov 29, 2001

Originally posted by GrandmasterB:
I've always been one to file the inexepensive part instead of the expensive one.
Good luck to you!

Amen!

#1 always work on the cheapest part.
geo ><>

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Bob Brown

· #6 · Nov 29, 2001

I second the motion to file a tad from the catch body rather than the frame. Just put it in and see where the shiny spot is and file there until it moves in. You may find several spots like that before you're through. And, you may have to file just a litle of the corner of the tab on the lever...that's fairly common these days. Just put the lever in the catch body,turn it all the way counter-clockwise and see if a corner of the tab sticks up above the body. If it does, take the offending part down a bit until it doesn't protrude. You could file the slot in the body to let the tab move on down, but that body is quite hard!!

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RyanM

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 29, 2001

Originally posted by GUNNER:
RyanM, put the Dremmel down and step away from the gun!

LOL... I was pretty nervous taking the dremel to the old mag catch, but there was no other way I could have gotten that stripped screw off. In my defense, the disassembly instructions that I was using at the time (from m1911.org) tells you to unscrew the mag catch, not to just turn it 1/4 turn. Fortunately I was having a good day, not a single slip with the dremel. I think that's a first for me.

Anyway, I had my doubts about filing the mag catch, since I really thought there was something in the frame hanging the thing up, but I figured I could always buy another $20 mag catch so I got out my file and wet/dry paper and got to work on it. After a bit of filing on the right side of the lock, it slipped right in and I now have a functioning mag catch. At least I think so; I haven't actually inserted a mag in it yet as the rest of the gun is still disassembled. Thanks to all who responded here, I appreciate the help. I bought a bunch of other parts from Ed Brown too; basically all of the internal parts. I'm going to see how much I can install myself and send the rest off to a local gunsmith if necessary. I'll post the results when it's finished, but since a simple mag catch caused this much trouble, it may be a while!

Ryan

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catbird

· #8 · Nov 29, 2001

Yes, the least expensive part should be worked on first.

However, The only reason I mentioned the holes in the frame, was that I installed the exact same Mag catch, to the exact same frame. I had to make the hole on the right side (looking at it from the back) abit larger in diameter, as well as smooth the other part of the hole, and the hole on the left side had to be "smoothed", not neccesarily larger. Each frame may be different, but this is what I had to do.

Other parts that didn't fit:
S&A Mag well. Fit so loose it could almost be pulled out of the gun from the back.

Trigger channel in the frame was extremely short on my frame. Trigger had to be shortened considerably.

Front factory dovetail cut is a very odd size.

The front strap on the frame was very odd shaped on mine. Made checkering very hard to end on the horizontal lines.

Mainspring Housing pin was drilled off center. This made the S&A mag well very hard to fit.

Other than that, the frame and slide was very easy to work with. Seemed like very good metal. Sort of reminded me of a Springfield.

Good luck and have fun!

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RyanM

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 29, 2001

Thanks for the reply catbird... I'm sure to get it as professionally done as you wanted some frame modification was necessary, but my standards are probably a bit lower than yours here; I just wanted the dang thing to fit in the hole and work without messing up the whole gun in the process.

One of the parts I have is a Wilson trigger, and it does stick out awfully far into the trigger guard. I'm glad you pointed out the issue with the trigger channel or I might have dismissed it. I'll look at it again at home and maybe shorten it. I'm not going to checker the frame or replace the MS housing, so hopefully the rest of the project will go smoothly.

Ryan

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catbird

· #10 · Nov 29, 2001

If the wilson trigger fit in the frame, that is good. Your frame may be better than the one I worked on. The trigger I used wouldn't fit in the frame. I had to take considerable material off from the top and bottem of the trigger to get it to work. More than I thought should be neccessary (about .020" from the top, and about .035" from the bottem) That is what I meant by "short". Sorry for any misunderstandings.

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Doubletap

· #11 · Jan 6, 2002

catbird said:
Yes, the least expensive part should be worked on first.

However, The only reason I mentioned the holes in the frame, was that I installed the exact same Mag catch, to the exact same frame. I had to make the hole on the right side (looking at it from the back) abit larger in diameter, as well as smooth the other part of the hole, and the hole on the left side had to be "smoothed", not neccesarily larger. Each frame may be different, but this is what I had to do.

I agree - Least expensive first. Especially for us first timers. My Wilson drop in - didn't. I am glad I took the metal off the mag Catch and not the frame, although it looks rough, it was educational - I now know next time how much and where to take it off the frame to make it look like a proffesional job.

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azone

· #12 · Jan 9, 2002

Look at your frame close. You'll see what keeps the mag release from coming out the left side is a small difference in diameter or counterbore. The difference is about .015" per side or about .030" in diameter. The length of this counter bore is only about .050" in length. I suspect the length or diameter is preventing your mag release from going into position. However, like the others said modify the mag release and not the frame. The frame is alot more expensive. I've seen this small counterbore break out on plastic grip frames like SV and STI. I usually make a brass bushing and lock tight it in place and lap the inside diameter to fit the mag release.

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jrf

· #13 · Jan 9, 2002

RyanM said:
One of the parts I have is a Wilson trigger, and it does stick out awfully far into the trigger guard. I'm glad you pointed out the issue with the trigger channel or I might have dismissed it. I'll look at it again at home and maybe shorten it.

I'm not familiar with Wilson triggers, but I do know that many triggers can be bought in different lengths. You may have replaced a short or medium trigger with a longer one. I did that on my CD, but because I wanted a longer trigger. If I remember right the CD came with a short trigger. Also I only had to take very little off the top and bottom of the trigger to get it to fit properly.

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